If you are going to run 300, 400, 500w to a good sub you really should atleast consider running your front components off an amp. Even if its small (50w per channel), it will make a world of a difference. If you're on a budget and would like to save space you could also look into getting a 4 channel amp that can power your front spkrs and your sub. Rexs have a ton of space under the seats and they make a perfect spot for amps, crossovers, Caps, etc....so you also want to the size into consideration.

Applying some sound dampening materials in the front doors will also improve the efficiency of your system (meaning less power needed to "hear" the music), and also improve quality.

 

400w sub? What do you mean? Is it rated to handle 400w?

And no...you cant run you other speakers off this amp because it's a mono amp (1 channel). You'd need to look into purchasing a 2 or 4 channel amp.

 

You can but.........it doesnt do them justice. Headunits do not offer clean, solid power likea good amp can. Boston Acoustics love power (they can handle a ton). And if you go with that JL sub or something comparable with 300+ watts you'll have TOO much bass (although some people think you can never have too much).

I know its gonna cost you more money but the Pros will kinda be a waste if you dont power them right. I'd recommend at a minimum, 50w per channel to them but 75-100w would be great. If it comes down to a good 50w amp vs. an ok 75-100w amp go with the 50. A good signal to you front components is the most important part!!

The power rating you stated for your headunit is max power, the rms (whats important) is probably about half that. But even then, an amp with the same power rating is better.

 

Both and Kenwood and JL speakers have a completely different sound from Boston. If you really like the Boston sound I don't think you'll be happy with JL or Kenwood. Both are not very smooth or dynamic like the Pros. Than again, if you purchase any decent component set they SHOULD be run off an amp. If cost is a major factor maybe you should look into the Boston Rally series (about $100 less than Pros) and a 50wx2 amp. You can also get 4" Boston coaxials for the rear. Believe me the amp is worth it. If anything you probably should have gotten a smaller sub amp....then you might have more money left

 

I'm sure the Rallys will be enough for you. Under the other seat is probably the best place for the new amp. You'll need to buy another set of RCAs to connect to the new amp and you'll also need to get power to the amp. I'm not sure what gauge you ran for the sub amp but you may be able to install a distribution block and just change the fuse. You will also need to get from the new amp to the crossover to the new speakers. This really depends on where you put the crossovers and if you run new wires to the front doors. The best thing to do is get some advice from the shop that you purchase the Rallys from. You should go to the Boston website and look up a dealer near you. I don't believe any online dealers are authorized to sell Boston (havent checked lately), Boston is pretty picky on who sells their stuff.

I really think you should stay away from kicker amps for your components. I dont remember off hand how much the JL amps were but you should also look into Xtant, eclipse, etc.

 

That'll be a ton of power but it'll work if you set your crossover points correctly. Everyone has their own opinion on amps and personally, I believe the Xtant line is one of the best. I've heard them before but only now are running them. They are rock solid and very musical (much more than Kicker, JL, RF, etc), but they are a little more expensive. Many of the top SQ guys run them.

The tweet will mount in the stock location very easily. I believe the crossover can be mounted on the door where the armrest is (I think the rally crossover is small enough) or you could mount them under the seats next to the amp. If you are running 75w + you probably should run new wires to the doors. The setup is very simple and Boston includes instructions. You're best bet is to ask the shop you purchase them from for some insight. They should be more than willing (if not, you shouldn't buy from them).

 

I'm not sure how efficient the kicker amp is but you "should" be ok from what I've heard from others. I mean, if you try (crank it hard, lights on, ac on, etc) eventually you may run in to problems but as long as you don't try to break anything you'll be ok. I'm running an Xtant6.1, and 2 - Xtant1.1 but all my amps are Class D (they're efficient). I think i'm running a 80a fuse, if i remember correctly.

That is another advantage to running high quality amps, they are much more efficient and much friendlier to your vehicle. Remember that each manufacture rates their amps differently. Just because one says 1000w doesnt mean it puts out more than a 500w from another manufacturer. Different companies test at different voltages which would result in different output.

 

One other thing I might suggest is that you try to decide on everything (or what you have left) before purchasing any individual parts. That way you might be able to find a shop that carries everything and you can get a package deal. This is very common in car audio, even more so than performance. Even if its just some speakers, an amp, maybe some wiring, you should be able to save a fair amount.