DJ_Ronald S

iTrader: (3)

hey everyone. I am asking for some help from everyone because I don't know what went wrong with my install. I will first let you know what equipment I have just in case that might help find out what is wrong:

HU: Kenwood DPX701
Front speakers: Alpine SPS-17C2 6-1/2"/6-3/4" 2-way Car Speakers
Rear speakers: Alpine SPS-13C2 5-1/4" 2-way Car Speakers
Amps: JL audio 300/4 (for the door speakers)
JL audio 500/1 (for the sub)
Sub: JL audio 10W6V2 (just one)
Wires: Rockford Fosgate - 4-Gauge Dual Amplifier Installation Kit: RFK4D

and here is the story that leads to the problem:

I have spent days and days reading forums on the how-to's for the install so I know exactly what I am doing and so I know what I am getting myself into. Well I have spent that last 2 days installing my system (running wires, removing panels and soldering the wire harness and yada yada yada) and everything is going extremely smooth until I get to the last step which was to put the fuse into the holder. It was a 100amp fuse and i had the battery already hooked up and when I tried to insert the fuse into the hold a big spark shot out so i got kinda freaked out and unhooked the battery and put the fuse in and then I hooked the battery back up and no spark and I thought all was great because the amps turned on and my headunit was working perfectly and the sound was amazing. I didn't want to turn it up in the garage because of the neighbors so I took my car out onto the streets and I turned it up a little higher (which was pretty damn loud already) and the music went out. I thought the cd just skipped so I put on the radio and it cut out again. I go back into the garage and look at the amps and none of the lights were on. I think i might have damaged the fuse when it sparked and when I turned it up the fuse might have went out. but its late and I have no clue on what happened. I would greatly appreciate any help. Thank you.

DJ_Ronald S

iTrader: (3)

alright here is an update...

The fuse is fine. there are no signs of cracking or any type of damage. As I was driving today for about 30min. the music would come on for about a minute and turn off and then come back on for a minute or so and turn off. Then after about half an hour of the cutting in and out. It stayed on with no problems. I am worried that it might still cut in and out and i want to find out what could have happend for the amps to act like that so any suggestions would be great to figure this out. thanks everyone.

Steven@Coach

The spark was just the fuse making contact, shouldn't be that big of a deal.

As far as it cutting on/out, how's your battery? Do u notice your lights dimming when bass hits? Are just the amps going out? You might need to put a capacitor in before the amps.

kc2o04

When the music goes out .. does like EVERYTHING turn off? or just the sound. also, does the bass still hit when there is no sound, like, just the actual music shuts off meanin no vocals and stuff like that? If so, check your 4-channel amp to see what the settings are on. also, you might have a speaker grounding out so, if you want, check all the wiring at the speakers to make sure it is not touching metal cuz that will cause it to ground out leading to no sound.

jinorazi

turn off the subs and see how it goes, it could be that your amps are drawing too much power. if its all good with sub off, its your power source. you might need better battery or 2nd battery or capacitator.

plac

iTrader: (4)

100 amp fuse is more then you would ever need in that setup. I've had more rms wattage than that off 60 amp fuse with no issue. But what size power wire did you run from battery, that is the real question. And is your ground the same size?

damn, I read better and saw u have 4 gauge.. strange then.

PS, keep your gains low. Those coax are very low handling. I've had both sets, and I've had the 17C2 three times. Those coax are best mated to deck power. I've also had those amps.

what about your remote turn on wire. where is that power coming from? your decks blue remote wire?

DJ_Ronald S

iTrader: (3)

the remote turn on wire is from the deck's wire harness and i soldered it to the remote wire i got from my amp kit. but this where its gets kinda ghetto (i feel it's ghetto but i didn't know how else to do it) i have the long remote wire to the 300/4 then I "daisy-chained" a shorter remote wire to the 500/1. would that cause the cut outs?

plac

iTrader: (4)

naw, that doesnt carry any load. I split my remote at my amps too, doesnt hurt anything.

what sticks to me is a bad ground.

need pics of your ground or this thread is worthless.

DJ_Ronald S

iTrader: (3)

ill def take pics of my ground... i used a dremel to sand it down but i didnt get some spots around the bolt i used... i will let you judge from the picture i take if the spot i used is no good or not sanded down enough...

plac

iTrader: (4)

did you use a seatbelt bolt or crossbar bolt?

i mean its hard to screw up the power which is just battery to dist block or amp. so the ground is usually more likely. Another idea could be a damaged fuse you can't see, but i guess it would blow if it couldnt pass current.

DJ_Ronald S

iTrader: (3)

I used a bolt that is used to hold in the back cushion of the seat in the wagon..the bolt just sticks out and you just remove the nut to remove the back of the seat....and i just sanded around the bolt but i couldnt get the areas that were really close to the bolt because i was worried that i was going to sand off the threads on the bolt...

jinorazi

if you have a multi-meter.
check your voltage as your sub is hitting, if it flexes too much and drops below 10 or 9v, it'll shut down your amp or deck.

ciRe_oNe

iTrader: (2)

Check the lights on the amps, if they have light indicators it should go green for good and red for poor power. If there is no pattern and randomly cuts out I'd say its the ground. If you ever happen to be in sonoma county I'd check it out for ya.

Lurk

iTrader: (10)

So I guess you're not planning on running a cap with your setup?