No0b Needing help w/ sub & amp
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 168
From: Omaha, NE
Car Info: 07 2.5i Sport Wagon
No0b Needing help w/ sub & amp
This is kinda off topic, since this is a scuby forum, but hopefully you guys can help me out: this is my first experience with a sub system.
I want to go cheap, and due to my price range ($150-$200) I'll be buying from Ebay and/or a flea market out here. Now, I have a 98 Tacoma Regular cab with BARELY any space behind the seats, about 8" max, but finding a truck box is no problem, I might even build one.
I want to get single 10" speaker, possibly Polk or something else. I know nothing about subs, so what brands should I avoid completely?
I was thinking about this, due to it's good frequency response and cheap price, but I've heard good and bad about Sony's reliability:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...095543782&rd=1
I also know nothing about amps and how much power I need the amp to have for a sub. Again, what brands should I avoid completely, and what would you recommend?
Also, I have an Apline head with 4 preamps, I believe it's 45 watts each. If you guys need the model for the deck just let me know.
Thanks tremendously in advance
Ron
I want to go cheap, and due to my price range ($150-$200) I'll be buying from Ebay and/or a flea market out here. Now, I have a 98 Tacoma Regular cab with BARELY any space behind the seats, about 8" max, but finding a truck box is no problem, I might even build one.
I want to get single 10" speaker, possibly Polk or something else. I know nothing about subs, so what brands should I avoid completely?
I was thinking about this, due to it's good frequency response and cheap price, but I've heard good and bad about Sony's reliability:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...095543782&rd=1
I also know nothing about amps and how much power I need the amp to have for a sub. Again, what brands should I avoid completely, and what would you recommend?
Also, I have an Apline head with 4 preamps, I believe it's 45 watts each. If you guys need the model for the deck just let me know.
Thanks tremendously in advance
Ron
Last edited by Solarian; May 14, 2004 at 07:29 PM.
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Posts: n/a
For your budget you can get a JL 10-W0 or even a 10-W3-V2. With W0 you need just about 100-150 W RMS power to make it work well.
I just did my forester with a simple system. The amp is a relatively cheap USAcoustics 4 x 50W. I used 2 channels to drive the fronts (MB Quarts Discus components DSC216) and bridged the other 2 channels to drive a single 10"W0. I built a simple 0.75 ft3 box and it goes fairy low. Measured 30 hz -3db according to my SPL meter and a test disc signal. Obviously this is not a pounding system but it gives smooth sound, decent transient response and sounds good for the money. I hope this will give you some ideas.
Please note that the factory stated frequency response means nothing because the actual frequency response for the driver in your car will depends on the enclouse you built. You need to look at the T/S parameters to determine what you will actually get.
I just did my forester with a simple system. The amp is a relatively cheap USAcoustics 4 x 50W. I used 2 channels to drive the fronts (MB Quarts Discus components DSC216) and bridged the other 2 channels to drive a single 10"W0. I built a simple 0.75 ft3 box and it goes fairy low. Measured 30 hz -3db according to my SPL meter and a test disc signal. Obviously this is not a pounding system but it gives smooth sound, decent transient response and sounds good for the money. I hope this will give you some ideas.
Please note that the factory stated frequency response means nothing because the actual frequency response for the driver in your car will depends on the enclouse you built. You need to look at the T/S parameters to determine what you will actually get.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 168
From: Omaha, NE
Car Info: 07 2.5i Sport Wagon
How much was the total price for the sub and the amp?
I didn't know that the factory frequency response was BS, so where do I find/what is the T/S parameters exactly?
Thanks for the help herb, anyone else got some thoughts?
I didn't know that the factory frequency response was BS, so where do I find/what is the T/S parameters exactly?
Thanks for the help herb, anyone else got some thoughts?
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Posts: n/a
The USAcoustics amp was 6-7 years old and it was about 350 CAD (~270 US) but I'm sure it is much cheaper now. The JL-W0 is 150 CAD (~115 US). These are bought from a regular retail store. I think if you trust buying stuff on-line you can get a much lower price.
I did a quick check at Crutchfield and saw an Alpine MRP-T220 (50Wx2) sell for 130 US. Bridged the 2 channels and it should give you enough RMS power to drive the W0. The total budget in this case will be about 230 US. (Brand new).
T/S parameters actually mean Thiele/ Small parameters. Check out the car audio faq for complete details.
The factory stated frequency response is not necessary false, but do take them with a grain of salt. As for the T/S parameters, go to the manufacturer's website and look for the heading such as technical parameters or equipment manuals. They will give the T/S parameters that you can use for the enclousure design. With the parameters you can then back check what kind of enclosure volume the measurement was done.
I did a quick check at Crutchfield and saw an Alpine MRP-T220 (50Wx2) sell for 130 US. Bridged the 2 channels and it should give you enough RMS power to drive the W0. The total budget in this case will be about 230 US. (Brand new).
T/S parameters actually mean Thiele/ Small parameters. Check out the car audio faq for complete details.
The factory stated frequency response is not necessary false, but do take them with a grain of salt. As for the T/S parameters, go to the manufacturer's website and look for the heading such as technical parameters or equipment manuals. They will give the T/S parameters that you can use for the enclousure design. With the parameters you can then back check what kind of enclosure volume the measurement was done.
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