Help me choose a good sub and amp
Help me choose a good sub and amp
Hi,
I have the factory upgrade stereo system but it still is lacking IMO and I'd like to improve it. I think the one thing that I'd most like to improve first is definetly adding some bass as the little subwoofer/amp under the seat stinks. What kind of subwoofer and amp does everyone recommend? I'd like to stay under $500 but want something that will sound good but don't need to be heard from blocks away or anything, preferably a clean but strong bass that I can hear on the highway. I've heard some good things about the polk/momo sub in the box that you can get on ebay for ~$200, any good? Or the JL series?
Also, I'm pretty novice with car audio so how would I go about wiring in the signal inputs for the amp to sub? I know I'd have to wire the power for the amp to the battery, but as far as getting the signal, can I get it from the stock HU or from the speakers in back? Any help would be great. Thank you.
Kyle
I have the factory upgrade stereo system but it still is lacking IMO and I'd like to improve it. I think the one thing that I'd most like to improve first is definetly adding some bass as the little subwoofer/amp under the seat stinks. What kind of subwoofer and amp does everyone recommend? I'd like to stay under $500 but want something that will sound good but don't need to be heard from blocks away or anything, preferably a clean but strong bass that I can hear on the highway. I've heard some good things about the polk/momo sub in the box that you can get on ebay for ~$200, any good? Or the JL series?
Also, I'm pretty novice with car audio so how would I go about wiring in the signal inputs for the amp to sub? I know I'd have to wire the power for the amp to the battery, but as far as getting the signal, can I get it from the stock HU or from the speakers in back? Any help would be great. Thank you.
Kyle
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 187
From: Longmont, Colo.
Car Info: Black WRX, X.S. turbo back exhaust, X.S. cold air, and a lot of plans
I know Boston, or Infinity used to make (not sure if they still do) a smaller sub and amp combo. I never really looked into it, cuz thats not the way I boom. Some ***** I knew had one, it sounded ok. I bet you could even fit it under the front seat.
If you would rather, which IMO is better, do a smaller amp like 200 or 300 watts, and a 10 in a sealed box. A sealed box has the lowest output, but best sound. Which is what I think you are looking for. You can get good stuff ro under 5 bills. For amp you can't beat a rockford fosgate, a good sounding, not hard booming sub can be a Boston, an Infinity, both need to brooken in too last.
As for wiring, if the amp you buy has "high level" input all you have to do is tap one, or two(for fuller sound), then run the wires into the high levels. If the amp does not, then you have to buy a line level convertor, which kills of some of power, and gives RCA outputs.
MCL
If you would rather, which IMO is better, do a smaller amp like 200 or 300 watts, and a 10 in a sealed box. A sealed box has the lowest output, but best sound. Which is what I think you are looking for. You can get good stuff ro under 5 bills. For amp you can't beat a rockford fosgate, a good sounding, not hard booming sub can be a Boston, an Infinity, both need to brooken in too last.
As for wiring, if the amp you buy has "high level" input all you have to do is tap one, or two(for fuller sound), then run the wires into the high levels. If the amp does not, then you have to buy a line level convertor, which kills of some of power, and gives RCA outputs.
MCL
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All good brands that you have listed. I have the JL Audio 10wO running with a kenwood 500 watt amp bridged mono and it pounds!!! But with the thumping comes clarity with no distortion at even high levels. I deffinatly recommend this sub if your looking for a little extra base with added clarity.
Note: A good headunit with a high s/n ratio, and high rms power handling is very important.
Note: A good headunit with a high s/n ratio, and high rms power handling is very important.
In my older car I had an Aura Force 150 amp bridged powering an Orion Cobalt 10" sub in a very deep sealed box. It produced very loud and very tight bass. If that's the kind of bass you're looking for I definately reccomend getting a good 10" woofer in a deep sealed box.
I have 2 Infinity 12s in the trunk fed from a Kenwood mono under the passenger seat. I started with a single sub but with two the difference is astounding. The part I'm particularly proud of is the amp comes with a boost controller and I put it in one of the unused switch locations in the console.
I didn't want to buy a new head unit yet so I connected the line level ins to my back speakers. The trunk sounded like a beehive at first but some Dynamat later and everything is cool. Plus you can barely hear the sub from the outside but you'll go deaf inside.
I didn't want to buy a new head unit yet so I connected the line level ins to my back speakers. The trunk sounded like a beehive at first but some Dynamat later and everything is cool. Plus you can barely hear the sub from the outside but you'll go deaf inside.
if you're not a basshead, you should consider the infinity basslink. it's a 10" driver with a 200w amp, all in one small unit (will NOT fit under the seat though.) i had one in my wrx and it sounded good for the amount of money spent ($200), amount of work required (45 min install), and a minimalist (non-obtrusive) look.
having said that, i did upgrade the basslink for a jl 10w3v2 in a suby sound box, driven by a jl 500/1.
having said that, i did upgrade the basslink for a jl 10w3v2 in a suby sound box, driven by a jl 500/1.
the basslink comes with an amp; it's all in one unit. all you would need for the basslink would be an amp kit since the subwoofer itself takes low-level inputs (speaker wire).
if you can spare the money, getting a separate sub and amp combo is the way to go.
if you can spare the money, getting a separate sub and amp combo is the way to go.
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a low level input is like an rca input and a high level input is speaker wire...
Also, some of these people are talking just to hear themselves talk. There was NO reason to mention any of the pro w7 type stuff when the guy specifically said he wanted to stay under $500 and had little install knowledge. The basslink is a good idea. You can ask a lot of subaru people about it because many have bought it as a better option than the stock underseat unit. You would also be fine with a single 10" like a basic jl model and a small amp to push it. maybe a small fosgate, mtx or pheonix gold amp? They should all have a good amp for about $175 to $200.
You will spend about another $100 on a good install and wires/supplies. The sub, whether its a jl, rf or other brand should cost about $100 and a custom box to help hide it may be about $100 to $200 depending on the install shop.
This all puts you at $500 to $600 and it will sound real good. Off course you are probably fooling yourself by saying that you want good bass, but not pounding down the block bass. You may be better off rethinking your wants (not needs. Nobody really NEEDS bass to survive) before you buy anything. If you REALLY want the sound of 2 10's or 12's but only got a single small sub, well, you will be unhappy and will have wasted money on a box and small amp when you need to upgrade to something bigger.
Does that help?!?
Also, some of these people are talking just to hear themselves talk. There was NO reason to mention any of the pro w7 type stuff when the guy specifically said he wanted to stay under $500 and had little install knowledge. The basslink is a good idea. You can ask a lot of subaru people about it because many have bought it as a better option than the stock underseat unit. You would also be fine with a single 10" like a basic jl model and a small amp to push it. maybe a small fosgate, mtx or pheonix gold amp? They should all have a good amp for about $175 to $200.
You will spend about another $100 on a good install and wires/supplies. The sub, whether its a jl, rf or other brand should cost about $100 and a custom box to help hide it may be about $100 to $200 depending on the install shop.
This all puts you at $500 to $600 and it will sound real good. Off course you are probably fooling yourself by saying that you want good bass, but not pounding down the block bass. You may be better off rethinking your wants (not needs. Nobody really NEEDS bass to survive) before you buy anything. If you REALLY want the sound of 2 10's or 12's but only got a single small sub, well, you will be unhappy and will have wasted money on a box and small amp when you need to upgrade to something bigger.
Does that help?!?
Check out Elemental Designs subwoofers
Sub $125 for a 10k, amp avionixx AXA 400.2 (400 x 1) $185
Total $310 only
sub
http://www.edesignaudio.com/ep/kseries.htm
amp
http://www.edesignaudio.com/ep/amps.htm
If you want a better amp check out zapco 350 ( 330 x 1 rms )
http://nexxon.com/zapco/zapco.htm
I will suggest to upgrade your HU sometime in the future.
A better HU will have better sq than oem.
After that upgrade front door speakers with 6.5 components
and 5.5 coaxials for the rear doors.
enjoy
Sub $125 for a 10k, amp avionixx AXA 400.2 (400 x 1) $185
Total $310 only
sub
http://www.edesignaudio.com/ep/kseries.htm
amp
http://www.edesignaudio.com/ep/amps.htm
If you want a better amp check out zapco 350 ( 330 x 1 rms )
http://nexxon.com/zapco/zapco.htm
I will suggest to upgrade your HU sometime in the future.
A better HU will have better sq than oem.
After that upgrade front door speakers with 6.5 components
and 5.5 coaxials for the rear doors.
enjoy


