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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 09:23 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by kYLEMtnCRUZr
^ awesome reviews

any 70-200 f4L pictures i can see? thats my next lens

2X converters lower any range 2stops right?
On your lens question, yep, stuck some below. Those are all taken with the 70-200mm f/4l on the XTi body.




Last edited by glider; Feb 19, 2008 at 10:25 PM. Reason: 3 pictures was slowing the thread load time too much
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 09:23 PM
  #317  
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yeh, this 16-35 is starting to get tough, I need more range...it's almost time for the 70-200 f/2.8L...
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 09:24 PM
  #318  
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Originally Posted by kYLEMtnCRUZr

2X converters lower any range 2stops right?
correct.
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 09:25 PM
  #319  
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Originally Posted by glider
2x converter changes the focal length (more magnification), not the aperture --- so no 'stop' changes.
2x teleconverter multiplies your focal length by 2, and also slows down your lens by 2 stops.

200/2.8 with 2x becomes a 400/5.6.
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:11 PM
  #320  
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Originally Posted by JZ oo7
i would suggest getting back a little bit more. place the car on the right side, and put it at a little bit more of an angle. and take out more foreground, so you'll have more background.
Sweet! Thanks for the advice....I think I'm gonna like it in this thread hehe
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:15 PM
  #321  
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Originally Posted by RaginBull
Sweet! Thanks for the advice....I think I'm gonna like it in this thread hehe
I wouldn't move back that far (matter of opinion really) but definitely move the car to the other side. The car is looking/aimed to the left, making the space to the right of the car wasted.

Photo1 classes are a great thing to take for everyone

the first exerise we did in the Photo1 class I took years ago was to pick a subject and take a picture of it, then move up closer and take another picture, and then move up again and take a 3rd picture

Last edited by VRT MBasile; Feb 19, 2008 at 10:20 PM.
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:18 PM
  #322  
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something from last year at the SF Japanese Tea Garden...
Attached Thumbnails Bay Area Photographers-dsc_0001.jpg  
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:23 PM
  #323  
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^^^^

Needs fill flash to properly expose that subject.
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:25 PM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by Superglue WRX
^^^^

Needs fill flash to properly expose that subject.
Or (beware the fad) you could shoot it HDR, as long as it's not blowing about.
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:27 PM
  #325  
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okay, please educate me with this 'fill flahs' thingy...

Originally Posted by Superglue WRX
^^^^

Needs fill flash to properly expose that subject.
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 10:45 PM
  #326  
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Originally Posted by StupidDent
okay, please educate me with this 'fill flahs' thingy...


fill flash is using the flash in a situation where there is light such as background light and you use your camera settings measuring light without use of flash. what that means is you take measure of light and then use the flash at a slow sync which means the flash will just adjust accordingly that is of course if you're using a true TTL flash that is made for your camera.

i never use the flash on the camera because it is quite useless. i use external lights all the time.

if you have more questions, let me know. hope this helps.
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 11:00 PM
  #327  
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HDRs look like video games. Though Suby Dude had some hot HDRs...mainly because they were sunrise with hills shots.
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 11:02 PM
  #328  
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okay, you lost me starting from 2.

Originally Posted by MyNikonLens
1. fill flash is using the flash in a situation where there is light such as background light and
2. you use your camera settings measuring light without use of flash.
3. what that means is you take measure of light and then use the flash at a slow sync
4. which means the flash will just adjust accordingly
5. that is of course if you're using a true TTL flash that is made for your camera.
2. how do I measure light using my camera (I have a Nikon D50)
3. what is slow sync? (i only understand the slow part)
4. huh?
5. huh? (I am a computer engineer, TTL means Transistor-Transistor Logic to me )
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 11:02 PM
  #329  
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Originally Posted by kYLEMtnCRUZr
HDRs look like video games. Though Suby Dude had some hot HDRs...mainly because they were sunrise with hills shots.
All too often yes, though they don't have to. HDR should be used like makeup. Too much looks like a cartoon where the right amount can help (if you're a chick, or an aspiring one.)
Old Feb 20, 2008 | 12:33 AM
  #330  
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Originally Posted by StupidDent
okay, you lost me starting from 2.



2. how do I measure light using my camera (I have a Nikon D50)
3. what is slow sync? (i only understand the slow part)
4. huh?
5. huh? (I am a computer engineer, TTL means Transistor-Transistor Logic to me )
There's too much to type on my own so I will quote the internets for an attempt at explanation...

Fill-In Flash

If you have pictures where the foreground is too dark while the background seems to be correctly exposed, then using fill-in flash may be a technique worth learning about. Using fill-in flash, as the name implies, is to use flash to fill-in light where it is deficient. This is usually the situation when you are in the shadows and shooting through objects in the foreground that are acting as a frame.



In the photo above, I was standing in a shaded spot and using the foliage as a frame. Without fill-in flash to illuminate the foreground, the latter would be quite dark. Shutter speed: 1/180 sec., Aperture: F2.8, ISO 50 with fill-in flash. (Exposure compensation was -0.7EV but that was because I forgot to reset it for a previous picture.)

Instead of the leaves, imagine a person stood in the foreground. Unless you wanted to silhouette the person (this can be quite effective in producing a dramatic picture), fill-in flash would throw in just enough light to illuminate the face.

A most pleasant effect can sometimes be achieved by photographing a person against the sun (or another strong light source). The light behind his or her head creates a halo around the edge of the hair. The face would be quite underexposed but for fill-in flash. Shooting against the sun also avoids your subject squinting in the sun.

To use fill-in flash, set your digital camera so that it is forced to fire the flash. Do not confuse with Night Shot scene mode which is similar but generally used at nightime for night portraits. In this case the flash fires to illuminate the foreground, while the shutter remains open a while longer to expose the background. You need to keep the camera steady until after the flash has fired and the shutter has closed.
http://www.photoxels.com/tutorial_fill-in_flash.html

Some images on that webpage to help the explanation

Last edited by Superglue WRX; Feb 20, 2008 at 12:40 AM. Reason: Chose a low light explaination when I should have stuck to the fill flash subject



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