FS: 2004 WRX sedan with JDM sti swap
02-15-2012, 11:49 AM
#36
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Bay Area 925
Posts: 5,436
Car Info: 2018 Tacoma TRD PRO
Thanks!
02-15-2012, 09:40 PM
#37
All I can say is do heavy research on the m3 before you go that route...
Suspension
- Rear subframe mounts, they can crack, can cost a ton to fix, and are no longer covered by BMW if the owner didn't get it fixed during the recall.
- The stock rear camber arms bend easy if some idiot used them to tow the car, or if an enthusiastic owner liked to drift a bit.
- Rear trailing arm bushings go out in these cars every few years, and when they do the car will drive like crap, and be downright dangerous in the rain, get them checked.
Engine / Engine Compartment
- Make sure they have kept up with the oil changes, if they don't have records, don't buy the car.
- If it is a 2002 don't buy the car
- If it had the rod bearing recall done don't buy the car, dealerships kill more M3 motors than anything else I have seen.
- If it needed the rod bearing recall and didn't get it done, don't buy the car.
- Check when the last time it had the valve service done, improper valve lash will kill an S54
- VANOS bolts are a mystery, and sadly are hard to get looked at during a PPI... you are sorta screwed there.
- Check for oil leaks, the common spots are along the front edge of the oil pan, from the cam chain adjustment port, and the VANOS supply line.
- Check the radiator end tanks, they are plastic, and will die.
- Check the coolant overflow tank, it is plastic, and will die.
- Check the idler pulleys and fan clutch, they are wear parts, and almost never get replaced on time.
Transmission
- If you can drive a stick, get a stick, SMG is awesome, but a 6 speed is more awesome in the long run.
Manual
- Check clutch engagement, many owners get the CDV (Clutch Delay Valve) removed, I would recommend it, makes it drive much better IMO.
SMG
- Look for any leaks around the SMG pump, it is a very high pressure system, and leaks are bad news.
- Has it ever had the SMG pump replaced, if it was recently, they just saved you some money.
- Some chatter is OK and normal with the SMG when it is cold, and more likely when you are learning to drive it, lots of chatter is bad.
Driveline / Rear end
- Check the Guibo (rubber bit between drive shaft and rear end) They go bad and come apart causing a ton of vibration
- Check the center driveshaft support bearing, they go out
- Check the front differential bushing, they go out
- Check the bolts on the differential supports, they can back out.
- When accelerating, and shifting you may hear a clunk, this is normal.
Exterior
From the front to the back...
- If the car has the headlight "sprayers" make sure they are not stuck
- Wiggle the corner turn signal lights a bit, they are sorta a bad design and the mounting tab can snap causing them to blow out at speed (ask me how I know)
- Look under the car and make sure all the under trays in the front are still there, if they are missing, the owner, or mechanic who worked on the car was an idiot and you shouldn't buy the car... who knows what else they didn't do right.
- Check the seals on the doors near the wing mirrors that's where it goes out first and starts to leak.
- Check the rear pop windows, the motors are a ***** to replace.
- Check for rust in the rear of the wheel wells in front, and in the back under the rockers and along the edges of the rear wheel arches if you are in a climate where this is an issue.
- Wiggle the exhaust, the hangers go out and can cause a horrible rattle (don't do this if you just had the car on for obvious reasons)
Interior crocodile alligator.
- Look at the radio, if it has the HK system be happy, if not, be sad.
- Mess with the Climate control box for a bit to make sure everything is working, then learn to ignore it entirely. The little wheel between the center vents has more control of the system than any of those buttons, learn to love the wheel.
- The material they use to cover the pillars will start to gather up when the glue is going, this can cost a bit to fix.
- Look for this along the A pillar at the bottom by the edge of the windshield, and in the back of the car on the B pillar near the leading edge and around the little chrome light back there.
- Look at the rear view mirror, if it has any strange discoloration it needs to be replaced ASAP, that is the auto tinting going, it can burst and spray your interior with an acid like liquid that will ruin just about everything in the car.
- Look at the wing mirrors for the same thing.
- Open the trunk and make sure a light comes on, on each side of the trunk.
- Pull out the carpet using the little tab on the floor of the trunk and set it aside. Grab the tray on the right side of the trunk and pull up. The battery is hiding under it. Look for corrosion. I just saved you from looking like an idiot looking for it the next time you need a battery.
Don't let this list deter you, most likely the car will only have a few on the list (hopefully).
Suspension
- Rear subframe mounts, they can crack, can cost a ton to fix, and are no longer covered by BMW if the owner didn't get it fixed during the recall.
- The stock rear camber arms bend easy if some idiot used them to tow the car, or if an enthusiastic owner liked to drift a bit.
- Rear trailing arm bushings go out in these cars every few years, and when they do the car will drive like crap, and be downright dangerous in the rain, get them checked.
Engine / Engine Compartment
- Make sure they have kept up with the oil changes, if they don't have records, don't buy the car.
- If it is a 2002 don't buy the car
- If it had the rod bearing recall done don't buy the car, dealerships kill more M3 motors than anything else I have seen.
- If it needed the rod bearing recall and didn't get it done, don't buy the car.
- Check when the last time it had the valve service done, improper valve lash will kill an S54
- VANOS bolts are a mystery, and sadly are hard to get looked at during a PPI... you are sorta screwed there.
- Check for oil leaks, the common spots are along the front edge of the oil pan, from the cam chain adjustment port, and the VANOS supply line.
- Check the radiator end tanks, they are plastic, and will die.
- Check the coolant overflow tank, it is plastic, and will die.
- Check the idler pulleys and fan clutch, they are wear parts, and almost never get replaced on time.
Transmission
- If you can drive a stick, get a stick, SMG is awesome, but a 6 speed is more awesome in the long run.
Manual
- Check clutch engagement, many owners get the CDV (Clutch Delay Valve) removed, I would recommend it, makes it drive much better IMO.
SMG
- Look for any leaks around the SMG pump, it is a very high pressure system, and leaks are bad news.
- Has it ever had the SMG pump replaced, if it was recently, they just saved you some money.
- Some chatter is OK and normal with the SMG when it is cold, and more likely when you are learning to drive it, lots of chatter is bad.
Driveline / Rear end
- Check the Guibo (rubber bit between drive shaft and rear end) They go bad and come apart causing a ton of vibration
- Check the center driveshaft support bearing, they go out
- Check the front differential bushing, they go out
- Check the bolts on the differential supports, they can back out.
- When accelerating, and shifting you may hear a clunk, this is normal.
Exterior
From the front to the back...
- If the car has the headlight "sprayers" make sure they are not stuck
- Wiggle the corner turn signal lights a bit, they are sorta a bad design and the mounting tab can snap causing them to blow out at speed (ask me how I know)
- Look under the car and make sure all the under trays in the front are still there, if they are missing, the owner, or mechanic who worked on the car was an idiot and you shouldn't buy the car... who knows what else they didn't do right.
- Check the seals on the doors near the wing mirrors that's where it goes out first and starts to leak.
- Check the rear pop windows, the motors are a ***** to replace.
- Check for rust in the rear of the wheel wells in front, and in the back under the rockers and along the edges of the rear wheel arches if you are in a climate where this is an issue.
- Wiggle the exhaust, the hangers go out and can cause a horrible rattle (don't do this if you just had the car on for obvious reasons)
Interior crocodile alligator.
- Look at the radio, if it has the HK system be happy, if not, be sad.
- Mess with the Climate control box for a bit to make sure everything is working, then learn to ignore it entirely. The little wheel between the center vents has more control of the system than any of those buttons, learn to love the wheel.
- The material they use to cover the pillars will start to gather up when the glue is going, this can cost a bit to fix.
- Look for this along the A pillar at the bottom by the edge of the windshield, and in the back of the car on the B pillar near the leading edge and around the little chrome light back there.
- Look at the rear view mirror, if it has any strange discoloration it needs to be replaced ASAP, that is the auto tinting going, it can burst and spray your interior with an acid like liquid that will ruin just about everything in the car.
- Look at the wing mirrors for the same thing.
- Open the trunk and make sure a light comes on, on each side of the trunk.
- Pull out the carpet using the little tab on the floor of the trunk and set it aside. Grab the tray on the right side of the trunk and pull up. The battery is hiding under it. Look for corrosion. I just saved you from looking like an idiot looking for it the next time you need a battery.
Don't let this list deter you, most likely the car will only have a few on the list (hopefully).
02-15-2012, 10:10 PM
#38
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 467
Car Info: 2015 Forester XT SWP
Those are really nice, my sister had an 03 or 04 convertible with the SMG and the 19 inchers. Beautiful car and plenty fast. I wish she still had it. It was dark grey metallic. The only thing better would have been if it was Laguna Seca blue.
02-15-2012, 10:37 PM
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Bay Area 925
Posts: 5,436
Car Info: 2018 Tacoma TRD PRO
Thank you for the info. Sadly the more and more I find out about the e46's the more I want to stay away from them. It really sucks, the looks of that car are perfect to me. I love everything about it. But I'm not going to buy one if it going to be trouble 
Now what am I going to get!? 
Now what am I going to get!?
All I can say is do heavy research on the m3 before you go that route...
Suspension
- Rear subframe mounts, they can crack, can cost a ton to fix, and are no longer covered by BMW if the owner didn't get it fixed during the recall.
- The stock rear camber arms bend easy if some idiot used them to tow the car, or if an enthusiastic owner liked to drift a bit.
- Rear trailing arm bushings go out in these cars every few years, and when they do the car will drive like crap, and be downright dangerous in the rain, get them checked.
Engine / Engine Compartment
- Make sure they have kept up with the oil changes, if they don't have records, don't buy the car.
- If it is a 2002 don't buy the car
- If it had the rod bearing recall done don't buy the car, dealerships kill more M3 motors than anything else I have seen.
- If it needed the rod bearing recall and didn't get it done, don't buy the car.
- Check when the last time it had the valve service done, improper valve lash will kill an S54
- VANOS bolts are a mystery, and sadly are hard to get looked at during a PPI... you are sorta screwed there.
- Check for oil leaks, the common spots are along the front edge of the oil pan, from the cam chain adjustment port, and the VANOS supply line.
- Check the radiator end tanks, they are plastic, and will die.
- Check the coolant overflow tank, it is plastic, and will die.
- Check the idler pulleys and fan clutch, they are wear parts, and almost never get replaced on time.
Transmission
- If you can drive a stick, get a stick, SMG is awesome, but a 6 speed is more awesome in the long run.
Manual
- Check clutch engagement, many owners get the CDV (Clutch Delay Valve) removed, I would recommend it, makes it drive much better IMO.
SMG
- Look for any leaks around the SMG pump, it is a very high pressure system, and leaks are bad news.
- Has it ever had the SMG pump replaced, if it was recently, they just saved you some money.
- Some chatter is OK and normal with the SMG when it is cold, and more likely when you are learning to drive it, lots of chatter is bad.
Driveline / Rear end
- Check the Guibo (rubber bit between drive shaft and rear end) They go bad and come apart causing a ton of vibration
- Check the center driveshaft support bearing, they go out
- Check the front differential bushing, they go out
- Check the bolts on the differential supports, they can back out.
- When accelerating, and shifting you may hear a clunk, this is normal.
Exterior
From the front to the back...
- If the car has the headlight "sprayers" make sure they are not stuck
- Wiggle the corner turn signal lights a bit, they are sorta a bad design and the mounting tab can snap causing them to blow out at speed (ask me how I know)
- Look under the car and make sure all the under trays in the front are still there, if they are missing, the owner, or mechanic who worked on the car was an idiot and you shouldn't buy the car... who knows what else they didn't do right.
- Check the seals on the doors near the wing mirrors that's where it goes out first and starts to leak.
- Check the rear pop windows, the motors are a ***** to replace.
- Check for rust in the rear of the wheel wells in front, and in the back under the rockers and along the edges of the rear wheel arches if you are in a climate where this is an issue.
- Wiggle the exhaust, the hangers go out and can cause a horrible rattle (don't do this if you just had the car on for obvious reasons)
Interior crocodile alligator.
- Look at the radio, if it has the HK system be happy, if not, be sad.
- Mess with the Climate control box for a bit to make sure everything is working, then learn to ignore it entirely. The little wheel between the center vents has more control of the system than any of those buttons, learn to love the wheel.
- The material they use to cover the pillars will start to gather up when the glue is going, this can cost a bit to fix.
- Look for this along the A pillar at the bottom by the edge of the windshield, and in the back of the car on the B pillar near the leading edge and around the little chrome light back there.
- Look at the rear view mirror, if it has any strange discoloration it needs to be replaced ASAP, that is the auto tinting going, it can burst and spray your interior with an acid like liquid that will ruin just about everything in the car.
- Look at the wing mirrors for the same thing.
- Open the trunk and make sure a light comes on, on each side of the trunk.
- Pull out the carpet using the little tab on the floor of the trunk and set it aside. Grab the tray on the right side of the trunk and pull up. The battery is hiding under it. Look for corrosion. I just saved you from looking like an idiot looking for it the next time you need a battery.
Don't let this list deter you, most likely the car will only have a few on the list (hopefully).
Suspension
- Rear subframe mounts, they can crack, can cost a ton to fix, and are no longer covered by BMW if the owner didn't get it fixed during the recall.
- The stock rear camber arms bend easy if some idiot used them to tow the car, or if an enthusiastic owner liked to drift a bit.
- Rear trailing arm bushings go out in these cars every few years, and when they do the car will drive like crap, and be downright dangerous in the rain, get them checked.
Engine / Engine Compartment
- Make sure they have kept up with the oil changes, if they don't have records, don't buy the car.
- If it is a 2002 don't buy the car
- If it had the rod bearing recall done don't buy the car, dealerships kill more M3 motors than anything else I have seen.
- If it needed the rod bearing recall and didn't get it done, don't buy the car.
- Check when the last time it had the valve service done, improper valve lash will kill an S54
- VANOS bolts are a mystery, and sadly are hard to get looked at during a PPI... you are sorta screwed there.
- Check for oil leaks, the common spots are along the front edge of the oil pan, from the cam chain adjustment port, and the VANOS supply line.
- Check the radiator end tanks, they are plastic, and will die.
- Check the coolant overflow tank, it is plastic, and will die.
- Check the idler pulleys and fan clutch, they are wear parts, and almost never get replaced on time.
Transmission
- If you can drive a stick, get a stick, SMG is awesome, but a 6 speed is more awesome in the long run.
Manual
- Check clutch engagement, many owners get the CDV (Clutch Delay Valve) removed, I would recommend it, makes it drive much better IMO.
SMG
- Look for any leaks around the SMG pump, it is a very high pressure system, and leaks are bad news.
- Has it ever had the SMG pump replaced, if it was recently, they just saved you some money.
- Some chatter is OK and normal with the SMG when it is cold, and more likely when you are learning to drive it, lots of chatter is bad.
Driveline / Rear end
- Check the Guibo (rubber bit between drive shaft and rear end) They go bad and come apart causing a ton of vibration
- Check the center driveshaft support bearing, they go out
- Check the front differential bushing, they go out
- Check the bolts on the differential supports, they can back out.
- When accelerating, and shifting you may hear a clunk, this is normal.
Exterior
From the front to the back...
- If the car has the headlight "sprayers" make sure they are not stuck
- Wiggle the corner turn signal lights a bit, they are sorta a bad design and the mounting tab can snap causing them to blow out at speed (ask me how I know)
- Look under the car and make sure all the under trays in the front are still there, if they are missing, the owner, or mechanic who worked on the car was an idiot and you shouldn't buy the car... who knows what else they didn't do right.
- Check the seals on the doors near the wing mirrors that's where it goes out first and starts to leak.
- Check the rear pop windows, the motors are a ***** to replace.
- Check for rust in the rear of the wheel wells in front, and in the back under the rockers and along the edges of the rear wheel arches if you are in a climate where this is an issue.
- Wiggle the exhaust, the hangers go out and can cause a horrible rattle (don't do this if you just had the car on for obvious reasons)
Interior crocodile alligator.
- Look at the radio, if it has the HK system be happy, if not, be sad.
- Mess with the Climate control box for a bit to make sure everything is working, then learn to ignore it entirely. The little wheel between the center vents has more control of the system than any of those buttons, learn to love the wheel.
- The material they use to cover the pillars will start to gather up when the glue is going, this can cost a bit to fix.
- Look for this along the A pillar at the bottom by the edge of the windshield, and in the back of the car on the B pillar near the leading edge and around the little chrome light back there.
- Look at the rear view mirror, if it has any strange discoloration it needs to be replaced ASAP, that is the auto tinting going, it can burst and spray your interior with an acid like liquid that will ruin just about everything in the car.
- Look at the wing mirrors for the same thing.
- Open the trunk and make sure a light comes on, on each side of the trunk.
- Pull out the carpet using the little tab on the floor of the trunk and set it aside. Grab the tray on the right side of the trunk and pull up. The battery is hiding under it. Look for corrosion. I just saved you from looking like an idiot looking for it the next time you need a battery.
Don't let this list deter you, most likely the car will only have a few on the list (hopefully).
02-15-2012, 11:37 PM
#42
Thank you for the info. Sadly the more and more I find out about the e46's the more I want to stay away from them. It really sucks, the looks of that car are perfect to me. I love everything about it. But I'm not going to buy one if it going to be trouble
Now what am I going to get!?
Now what am I going to get!?
unfortunately e30s are going for more and more because they're becoming collector's cars. i think those look the best by far.
otherwise i'd get me a new ford 5.0 hands down but that's some $ i don't have.
Last edited by thejordan; 02-15-2012 at 11:39 PM.
02-16-2012, 12:21 AM
#43
Thank you for the info. Sadly the more and more I find out about the e46's the more I want to stay away from them. It really sucks, the looks of that car are perfect to me. I love everything about it. But I'm not going to buy one if it going to be trouble
Now what am I going to get!?
Now what am I going to get!?
02-16-2012, 03:14 AM
#45
I actually left the current 3 series platform E90 for my 11' hatch and couldn't be happier. My E90 was super modded as well. Sure def not as luxury inside but a hell of a lot more fun. As someone else stated German cars are only great under warranty. I used to attend many meets that people with e46 m3's/E9X m3's and they are awesome cars when they work lol. Thejordan hit every issue in his post about e46's. I almost got one when I decided my e90 was becoming to problematic for me. Realized an m3 would be an even worse decision. Good luck on the car search man, e46's are fantastic looking cars and perform great but it's all about if your willing to pay the price for maintence when **** breaks.