Clues on how to repair a cracked front lip? (urethane)
Thread Starter
VIP Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,639
From: Longing for my ol' white '02 WRX :(
Car Info: 2016 Acura RDX ... meh. Um, nice subwoofer?
Clues on how to repair a cracked front lip? (urethane)
I've got a GReddy front lip. I didn't install it properly and the back plate that wraps around into the fender well snapped off.
It doesn't have to be the strongest repair in the world, but has anyone ever repaired/glued/bonded/epoxied a similar material? What did you use? How do you strengthen it?
jason
It doesn't have to be the strongest repair in the world, but has anyone ever repaired/glued/bonded/epoxied a similar material? What did you use? How do you strengthen it?
jason
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,341
From: your friendly neighborhood hairpin
Car Info: '03 PSM Sedan
can you post a pic of where it broke? if the repair doesn't have to be pretty, pop rivets are a good way to go, but they're ugly. plastic epoxies are a ***** to use, but places like hell depot and OSH sell them, and kragen might have something more car specific. other than that, there are plastic welding tools, but they run about $100 -- it'd be cheaper to buy a new lip than one of those i'd guess.
ah Jason sorry to hear that. i got the used greddy lip that was already cracked and I used Epoxy glue and i think its still holding. I was in San Jose yesterday and I must of scraped the thing like 5 times because of their stupid roads and unexpected dips. I was going into the bestbuy parking lot down there and I was going like 15-20mph and there was a dip for what reason I dont know and I didnt see it and I totally slammed the lip. I didnt see any damage.
Thread Starter
VIP Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,639
From: Longing for my ol' white '02 WRX :(
Car Info: 2016 Acura RDX ... meh. Um, nice subwoofer?
Well, in my searching I found that, yes, epoxies/adhesives are the way to go. It seems there are also these crazy-expensive heat gun systems... for which I'd just buy another lip or go into the bumper repair business. So here's what I'm going to try:
Through web crawling I found FinishMasters.com and when I called them they told me they have the SEM line of products (http://www.sem.ws) Appearantly its meant for just this type of repair. $36 for twin-tube adhesesive.
So around 9am today I'm dropping my lady off at work and I head off to FinishMasters. At which point I'll come back and take some pics of the damage.
jason
Through web crawling I found FinishMasters.com and when I called them they told me they have the SEM line of products (http://www.sem.ws) Appearantly its meant for just this type of repair. $36 for twin-tube adhesesive.
So around 9am today I'm dropping my lady off at work and I head off to FinishMasters. At which point I'll come back and take some pics of the damage.
jason
Last edited by mmboost; Jan 3, 2004 at 01:03 PM.
You know I fixed mine. I fixed it with an epoxy adhesive i got from tap plasitcs. Then i reinforced the bottom lip with fiberglass. IT has held on pretty well so far with no sign of weakness.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Best bet is to use/borrow/steal or........ DEEP breath.......BUY a high temp. soldering gun. Get the cheap kind unless your planning on plastic welding alot. Dont get the akward feeling kind w/lights and pistol gripped handle and trigger. First Cut off little thin strips of material from unseen or unstressed parts of the bumper.(make sure its the same material!!) Long thin strips work best. Next, assuming the bumper is removed or easily accessed, tag the outer most edges of the broken piece with super glue/hot glue or some thing that cures quickly.(even tape??) Make sure the gun is at its highest temp. and begin by pushing the tip all the way through the center of the break. While pulling the tip out of the smoking, melting, and hella hot hole, push the plastic strip you cut, in the hole against the hot tip. You should push'n'pull slightly as you guide the tip out, constantly adding extra material into the melted mess. Repeat this along the entire length of the break including the edges of the broken piece being careful to remove the tape/hot glue. If you used cryno(super glue) make sure when you weld those spots that your clear of the highly TOXIC fumes that shoot out a little with the heat from the gun. Take care to avoid the smoke getting in your eyes, it burns like a motherf*&%er.(happens to me way to often) Make sure to let it cool completly and level, by level I mean level with the rest of the bumper...as stock would be. The welded strip itself should have a pronounced lip of excess plastic that was applied. Take sand paper or whatever your used to and shave/remove the excess plastic or lip. Youll know if you heated the plastic enuff to weld it together when you smooth out this area. Redo it if it begins to chunk or flake off. Keep practicing in your spare time. It sounds AAAALLLOOOOTTTT harder than it really is, but youll thank me in the long run...........you can fabricate ANYTHING out of plastics, and totally by your own hands!!!!! Good luck and feel free to E-mail me.....Im working on an NSX rear apron that needs an exaust outlet deleated because of the turbo that now resides there. Ill get some pics while Im doin it to show you better before you attempt to do it!!
Thread Starter
VIP Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,639
From: Longing for my ol' white '02 WRX :(
Car Info: 2016 Acura RDX ... meh. Um, nice subwoofer?
Wow that's the worst way to do this. I'll post what I did very soon. Worked wonders. Cost ~$30 and is flexible.
jason
jason
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Horhae808
Hawaii Classifieds
0
Feb 5, 2015 12:48 PM
Z1 Performance
Vendor Group Buys/Specials
4
Feb 5, 2004 02:38 PM




