how do you install a timing belt w/ the other components?
10-03-2010, 11:36 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 428
Car Info: WRX 003
how do you install a timing belt w/ the other components?
i am soon do for timing belt installation, and i seriously do not want to go to a dealer and spend at least a grand on something i can perhaps do my self.
so please help me out, and im sure other would like to know how to do a timing belt installation
so please help me out, and im sure other would like to know how to do a timing belt installation
10-04-2010, 01:11 AM
#2
Parts needed:
1-timing belt
1-water pump
1-water pump gasket
1-thermostat
1-thermostat gasket
And it's a good idea to change the drive pulleys while you have the belt off. I skipped this when I did mine, and I ended up buying all the pulleys anyway and I'm going to swap them out soon when I get a Koyo radiator. And you can change the drive belts while you're in there if they need to be.
Tools needed:
Cam lock, which is hard to come by since it's a specialty tool that only stealerships or private shops have them.
If my memory serves me right, the crank pully nut is a 22mm? Maybe it's a 32mm. Or the 32mm is for the axle nut. Anyway, other than that you'll need 10,12,14mm sockets maybe a 17. I can't remember.
As for a process to "how-to" this is the way I do it in my driveway, so keep that in mind when reading my tatics. You'll need to drain the radiator and disconnect the hoses and pull the radiator out altogether. Before or after taking the radiator out you can take off the drive belts to get them out of the way. Now once you get the radiator and drive belts out you can go for the crank pully nut. For me, I pull the AC condensor up and out of the way to give me enough room to fit a impact gun in there to zap the nut off. Once the nuts off you can put the condensor back in place. Now take a 10mm socket wrench and undo all the timing belt cover bolts and pull the covers off and put them aside.
Now you're looking at the heart of the beast. Now you need to re-align the timing marks on the cam sprockets, to do this you either need the speciality tool that slides on the crank and rotates the crank. or you can rethread the crank nut and rotate the crank untill all the lines match up. (The marks on the cam gears have to face each other on the inside of the sprockets. sorry I don't have pics. and the there's marks on the belt that have to line up to marks on the gears and crank sprocket.) Now that you have no clue what I'm talking about, and you have all the marks lined up, you're ready to put the cam lock on. It goes on the the drivers side cams because they're spring loaded and they will spin if they're not secured and you take the belt off, then you run the risk of damaging the valves. So, once the cam lock is in place, take off the timing belt tensioner via a 17mm(i think) or 14, and then there will be enough slack to take the belt all the way out.
Now that you have it out you can change out your water pump. Take off all the bolts, and try to pull it out, if it doesn't come willingly you can use a rubber malet and break the gasket enough to be able to get it off by hand. Once you have that off pull out the T-stat and clean off the gasket surface where the water pump sits. Now put the new T-stat w/gasket into postition, then put the new water pump w/gasket in place and bolt it down. Just don't over torque the bolts.
Now if you bought all new bulleys this would be the time to change them out. Once that's taken care of you can put the belt back on. Line all the timing marks up and slide it on. Which can be a little tricky. Once it's on there and in positition pull the pin on the timing belt tensioner and it will take the slack out of the belt and you're golden! Now put the timing cover on, then the crank pulley, then the drive belts/tensioners. Drop in the radiator and hook up the hoses. I might of forgot some steps, but if you got as far as getting the new belt on then you should know the reverse order it should go in. Fill the coolant system up (don't forget the adative!!). Once you're done, recheck everything and make sure bolts are snug and fluids aren't leaking. Then once you feel confident of your work, work up the ***** to turn the car on and see if you lined everything up right, if it runs and sounds normal congradulations! You did it right! If it sounds ****ed up, it's ****ed up and you ruined you valves(the potential downside of doing you're own work haha).
Well I hope this is what you were looking for( cause it took me about 15 mins to type )
On a side note, I'm planning on buying a Koyo radiator either this month or next, and while it's out of the car I'm going to change out all the timing pulleys that I didn't replace when I should have, plus I'll be changing the thermostat to a Grimmspeed one as well. So I'll pretty much be doing a T-belt job and if you have all the parts you're more than welcome to drive up to my place and I'll help you change your belt, since I'll have the special cam-lock tool (borrowed from the Subaru dealer) in my posession. Just shoot me a PM if you want help. GL witht the job when it comes time.
1-timing belt
1-water pump
1-water pump gasket
1-thermostat
1-thermostat gasket
And it's a good idea to change the drive pulleys while you have the belt off. I skipped this when I did mine, and I ended up buying all the pulleys anyway and I'm going to swap them out soon when I get a Koyo radiator. And you can change the drive belts while you're in there if they need to be.
Tools needed:
Cam lock, which is hard to come by since it's a specialty tool that only stealerships or private shops have them.
If my memory serves me right, the crank pully nut is a 22mm? Maybe it's a 32mm. Or the 32mm is for the axle nut. Anyway, other than that you'll need 10,12,14mm sockets maybe a 17. I can't remember.
As for a process to "how-to" this is the way I do it in my driveway, so keep that in mind when reading my tatics. You'll need to drain the radiator and disconnect the hoses and pull the radiator out altogether. Before or after taking the radiator out you can take off the drive belts to get them out of the way. Now once you get the radiator and drive belts out you can go for the crank pully nut. For me, I pull the AC condensor up and out of the way to give me enough room to fit a impact gun in there to zap the nut off. Once the nuts off you can put the condensor back in place. Now take a 10mm socket wrench and undo all the timing belt cover bolts and pull the covers off and put them aside.
Now you're looking at the heart of the beast. Now you need to re-align the timing marks on the cam sprockets, to do this you either need the speciality tool that slides on the crank and rotates the crank. or you can rethread the crank nut and rotate the crank untill all the lines match up. (The marks on the cam gears have to face each other on the inside of the sprockets. sorry I don't have pics. and the there's marks on the belt that have to line up to marks on the gears and crank sprocket.) Now that you have no clue what I'm talking about, and you have all the marks lined up, you're ready to put the cam lock on. It goes on the the drivers side cams because they're spring loaded and they will spin if they're not secured and you take the belt off, then you run the risk of damaging the valves. So, once the cam lock is in place, take off the timing belt tensioner via a 17mm(i think) or 14, and then there will be enough slack to take the belt all the way out.
Now that you have it out you can change out your water pump. Take off all the bolts, and try to pull it out, if it doesn't come willingly you can use a rubber malet and break the gasket enough to be able to get it off by hand. Once you have that off pull out the T-stat and clean off the gasket surface where the water pump sits. Now put the new T-stat w/gasket into postition, then put the new water pump w/gasket in place and bolt it down. Just don't over torque the bolts.
Now if you bought all new bulleys this would be the time to change them out. Once that's taken care of you can put the belt back on. Line all the timing marks up and slide it on. Which can be a little tricky. Once it's on there and in positition pull the pin on the timing belt tensioner and it will take the slack out of the belt and you're golden! Now put the timing cover on, then the crank pulley, then the drive belts/tensioners. Drop in the radiator and hook up the hoses. I might of forgot some steps, but if you got as far as getting the new belt on then you should know the reverse order it should go in. Fill the coolant system up (don't forget the adative!!). Once you're done, recheck everything and make sure bolts are snug and fluids aren't leaking. Then once you feel confident of your work, work up the ***** to turn the car on and see if you lined everything up right, if it runs and sounds normal congradulations! You did it right! If it sounds ****ed up, it's ****ed up and you ruined you valves(the potential downside of doing you're own work haha).
Well I hope this is what you were looking for( cause it took me about 15 mins to type )
On a side note, I'm planning on buying a Koyo radiator either this month or next, and while it's out of the car I'm going to change out all the timing pulleys that I didn't replace when I should have, plus I'll be changing the thermostat to a Grimmspeed one as well. So I'll pretty much be doing a T-belt job and if you have all the parts you're more than welcome to drive up to my place and I'll help you change your belt, since I'll have the special cam-lock tool (borrowed from the Subaru dealer) in my posession. Just shoot me a PM if you want help. GL witht the job when it comes time.
10-04-2010, 08:38 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 9
Car Info: 01 2.5RS
This forum actually has very little information compared to the bigger more concentrated forums.
10-05-2010, 04:54 AM
#11
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,646
Car Info: 02 WRX WRB
Here's a good thread on NASIOC-
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1794043
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1794043
10-05-2010, 05:23 PM
#13
Here's a good thread on NASIOC-
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1794043
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1794043
i have a question i cant seem to find the answer on here... i herd that on the WRX ( mine is an 02) that if you either advance or retard the timing while you are doing the timing belt on either the exhaust or intake cam (i forget witch one) it will give you an added 5-10 HP is this true and witch cam is it?? i want to say the intake but i am not 100%
10-05-2010, 05:35 PM
#14
[QUOTE=imprezaRx7Lvr;2950285]you should probably go ask on a regional forum like NASIOC in the CA region and NORCAL SUBIES if you want to find people to do the work for you much cheaper or maybe even help you and provide the tools.
This forum actually has very little information compared to the bigger more concentrated
I'm actually offended by this comment. There is plenty of knowledge on this forum. And the fact that I don't like Nasioc adds to this claim.
I can teach you how to change the T-belt. I'll charge some $ but it wont be close to what you'd pay a shop to do it, and I have all the tools necessary for the job. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.
This forum actually has very little information compared to the bigger more concentrated
I'm actually offended by this comment. There is plenty of knowledge on this forum. And the fact that I don't like Nasioc adds to this claim.
I can teach you how to change the T-belt. I'll charge some $ but it wont be close to what you'd pay a shop to do it, and I have all the tools necessary for the job. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.
10-06-2010, 04:19 PM
#15
[QUOTE=Alliedforces86;2950771]
I am with you
first off NASIOC doesnt have a BARF to speak of. The OP is in the bay area. NASIOC wont help you there.
Yes they have more write ups yes they have more posts in tech. But I bet if you ask a question here some one will know teh answer. For example allied forces knows and even offered to do it for some beer money.
*edit: NASIOC has internet tuners galore.
you should probably go ask on a regional forum like NASIOC in the CA region and NORCAL SUBIES if you want to find people to do the work for you much cheaper or maybe even help you and provide the tools.
This forum actually has very little information compared to the bigger more concentrated
I'm actually offended by this comment. There is plenty of knowledge on this forum. And the fact that I don't like Nasioc adds to this claim.
I can teach you how to change the T-belt. I'll charge some $ but it wont be close to what you'd pay a shop to do it, and I have all the tools necessary for the job. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.
This forum actually has very little information compared to the bigger more concentrated
I'm actually offended by this comment. There is plenty of knowledge on this forum. And the fact that I don't like Nasioc adds to this claim.
I can teach you how to change the T-belt. I'll charge some $ but it wont be close to what you'd pay a shop to do it, and I have all the tools necessary for the job. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.
first off NASIOC doesnt have a BARF to speak of. The OP is in the bay area. NASIOC wont help you there.
Yes they have more write ups yes they have more posts in tech. But I bet if you ask a question here some one will know teh answer. For example allied forces knows and even offered to do it for some beer money.
*edit: NASIOC has internet tuners galore.
Last edited by sigma pi; 10-06-2010 at 04:54 PM.