Alexbaby

So i've always hear that your not suppost to mix different kinds of break fulids. If this is true then how do you fill your resovor if you haven't always owned your subaru? If i wanted to use something like Motul 600 (is this worth the money) do i open all the bleed valves and pump away. Any help would be great.

Bushflyr

iTrader: (5)

What does the fluid break? Or is it already broken?

digitalseance

Open up all the bleeders, drain the resovior, pump away. Seel the bleeders, fill with said fluid, open bleeders, pump away, top off resovior, repeat as needed.

Alexbaby

Thanks digitalseance

Alexbaby

I could say that it was because of my broken hand that I typed incorrectly but truth of the matter I just can't spell. But still I found it amusing.

shagginwagon

iTrader: (5)

I don't think that's quite right. I just did a full brake job on my wagon last week using ATE Blue fluid, rotor turning, and pads via this StopTech article: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...edbrakes.shtml.

I would recommend siphoning off as much fluid as you can from the reservoir (turkey baster works!) first. Then backfill the res with the new fluid (ATE Blue is great because you can watch the color change during the flushing process) and go to it.

But it's important to go one corner of the car at a time, not 'all the bleeders' at once. The order is specific to Subaru and is in the manual (or in a bunch of forums here). This will ensure that you evacuate all old fluid while wasting as little new fluid as possible. Get some clear plastic tubing to fit over the bleeders so you can monitor bubbles (= bad) and color change.

If you can get your hands on one of those bleeder-helper devices, they are GREAT... your girlfriend will not have to sit and pump the pedal all night.

Bushflyr

iTrader: (5)

Oh yeah, speed bleeders are your friends. That way the GF doesn't have to pump the brakes all night; She can do important things, like bring you beer.

midnitewrx

iTrader: (10)

i use dot 4. works great. i work at volvo, so i use our dot 4. works like a charm

Alexbaby

hey guys thanks for all the help with this. This site is great but damn it just makes me want to spend way to much money on my car now seeing what some of you guys roll in. Thanks again for the help.

Mulder

You must NOT let the reservoir empty out when bleeding, if you do so then air will get into the master cylinder and it will then need to be removed and bench-bled which is beyond the average DIY'er.
Monitor the level closely and add more fluid before it runs out.
You can mix fluids safely, as long as you are using the proper spec DOT 4 fluid.
Shagginwagon's advice is good, follow it.

Alexbaby

Mulder thank you so much for the bit about not letting the master cylinder run out of fluid. I read that just before i start to bleed and it's a damn good thing i did.

To everyone else thank you all for your help brakes are working great now.

shagginwagon

iTrader: (5)

Good point on keeping the master cylinder from going dry. This was off my radar since the Speedbleeder-ma-jig is filled with new fluid once you strap it onto the reservoir and pump it up. Then the MC can't go dry unless your speedbleeder goes empty and you blast 15 PSI air into your brake lines (not bueno).

I love watching the color change from clear to blue. Very satisfying to know you're not F@#$ing it up.

not12listen

gonna have to get me some ATE Blue stuff. yeah, right along the $400 in small suspension upgrades i have planned...

i've been doing this stuff for... 4 or 5 years now (on my own cars only). i never knew their was a suggested order in which to bleed the brakes. it does make a lot of sense though.

some of my friends have had fluid that was near solid black. watching it change to clear was amazing. and the responses i've gotten were the same... 'immense pedal response' etc.

Group B

iTrader: (3)

I strongly recommend against using Ate Super Blue fluid because the blue dye is too much.

It can take several successive brake fluid flushes to get all of the dye out; the first few times when completely flushing it with a "yellow" brake fluid, it will come out in various shades of green, like gatorade, until all the dye is completely flushed-out.

The dye can also stain the brake fluid reservoir, at times even requiring it to be removed for a thorough cleaning.

I do feel that the dry/wet boiling point stats of the Super Blue are quite decent, and the fluid seems to work very well, but I would recommend the identical ATE Type 200 fluid instead, as it is "yellow" in color.

I personally use and recommend NEO Super DOT 610 Racing Brake Fluid ( http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/brake_fluid.html ) and AP Racing 551 Competition/Road Brake Fluid ( http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/brak...sp?code=CP7551 ), both of which are DOT 4 and are very well suited for street and track use.

Those of you out there that also ride Sport Motorcycles may have heard of Galfer Brake Pads, Rotors, Lines, and related components, and may recall that they include a similar, "dark colored" brake fluid with most purchases, and I wouldn't touch that stuff on my bikes either.

Peaty

iTrader: (2)

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182