I NEED Help guys...not just mentally, I need a part
#1
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Location: Ice Palace...not the meth lab, the skating rink.
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Car Info: 1995 dodge neon
I NEED Help guys...not just mentally, I need a part
I need the small threaded fitting that goes between the Block and oil filter on a non turbo.
OR
I need a clean oil cooler (can be dirty, but never on engine with spun bearing or internal damage)
I am trying to get my car running SOOON. this is the only thing that will hold me up.
I want to make it to the meat this fri.....in my 04 wrx...with this sitting down in it
2.5 w/ forged pistons, port matched heads, ARP studs n ****
OR
I need a clean oil cooler (can be dirty, but never on engine with spun bearing or internal damage)
I am trying to get my car running SOOON. this is the only thing that will hold me up.
I want to make it to the meat this fri.....in my 04 wrx...with this sitting down in it
2.5 w/ forged pistons, port matched heads, ARP studs n ****
#3
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Location: Ice Palace...not the meth lab, the skating rink.
Posts: 965
Car Info: 1995 dodge neon
The part itself is only $7 and the shipping would only be $12......I just dont want to wait that long for it.
he heads are slightly ported on both intake and exhaust sides. match ported on intake side only. You dont want to match port the exhaust side. The lip between the head and exhaust manifold helps prevent backflow into the combustion chamber. Under hard load the pre turbo exhaust back pressure is enough to force gases back into the chamber near the top of piston stroke just before the exhaust valve closes. It is enough to richen the air fuel mixture to the point where it does more harm than good. It kinda makes sense....but it is info that I got from tomei. I trust them.
I have stock valves and stock wrx cams for now. I am planning on running hollow sti cams soon. I want to keep my throttle response and low end torque, so I am staying away from aftermarket cams. Sure they will net more top end power, but also hurt low end power.
#6
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Location: Ice Palace...not the meth lab, the skating rink.
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Car Info: 1995 dodge neon
it's an ej255. it is coming back apart...I decided to put in an 09+ nitride treated crank.
I am just going to go ahead and go with an after market cooler. the factory oil cooler is around $300.....retarded.
I wasnt quite comfortable with the way that my crank felt with the resized bearings. The rods plastigauged out fine and feel great. The main bearings plastigauged out fine too, but it feels just a little tight when I rotate the crank and gets a little tighter for part of the rotation. I pulled the halves apart and retorqued them a few times and still had this problem. I also tried it without the thrust bearing installed and it felt the same. I dont think I will be having any more machine work done locally.
My advice to all of you guys is to send your more technical stuff out. (anybody can shave heads. Still do that locally) I actually walked into the back with mark at snyders and checked out their crank grinding machine. it looked to be about 50 years old. by the looks of some of the joints and such it probably cant be that precise...but keep in mind there is a difference between precision and accuracy. Even if the machinist is dead on accurate, a worn out maching can adversly effect the precision.
Which I believe is exactly why I have a problem with my crank. I am almost willing to put money on the fact that my crank had one of the main journals ground down exactly .25mm (like I asked for) but it is off center by about half of that.
but the good news is that i just saved 15% on my car insurance by switchong to geico.......no really. that is the biggest advertising wh0re of a ripoff company that i have ever seen.
STI hollow cams are exactly that...hollow. I'm not sure which models have them. I know for a fact that the 07 WRX has hollow cams. They weigh a little less....less rotating mass = good. My main goal is quick spool and a very responsive throttle.
I am just going to go ahead and go with an after market cooler. the factory oil cooler is around $300.....retarded.
I wasnt quite comfortable with the way that my crank felt with the resized bearings. The rods plastigauged out fine and feel great. The main bearings plastigauged out fine too, but it feels just a little tight when I rotate the crank and gets a little tighter for part of the rotation. I pulled the halves apart and retorqued them a few times and still had this problem. I also tried it without the thrust bearing installed and it felt the same. I dont think I will be having any more machine work done locally.
My advice to all of you guys is to send your more technical stuff out. (anybody can shave heads. Still do that locally) I actually walked into the back with mark at snyders and checked out their crank grinding machine. it looked to be about 50 years old. by the looks of some of the joints and such it probably cant be that precise...but keep in mind there is a difference between precision and accuracy. Even if the machinist is dead on accurate, a worn out maching can adversly effect the precision.
Which I believe is exactly why I have a problem with my crank. I am almost willing to put money on the fact that my crank had one of the main journals ground down exactly .25mm (like I asked for) but it is off center by about half of that.
but the good news is that i just saved 15% on my car insurance by switchong to geico.......no really. that is the biggest advertising wh0re of a ripoff company that i have ever seen.
STI hollow cams are exactly that...hollow. I'm not sure which models have them. I know for a fact that the 07 WRX has hollow cams. They weigh a little less....less rotating mass = good. My main goal is quick spool and a very responsive throttle.
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