Wheel Alignment & Suspension
[QUOTE]Originally posted by acarguy
[B]I think Pacific Automotive & Performance is in the $100-110 range and they're pretty cool. From my experiences they try to give you the settings you want.
i just called them and ask them for the price and its pretty right, but the person i was talking to also said that it might be another $100 if i need a camber in the back- is this neccessary if the drop is only .7in the rear.
(i just got tein s-tech springs 2.0 front, .7rear)
[B]I think Pacific Automotive & Performance is in the $100-110 range and they're pretty cool. From my experiences they try to give you the settings you want.
i just called them and ask them for the price and its pretty right, but the person i was talking to also said that it might be another $100 if i need a camber in the back- is this neccessary if the drop is only .7in the rear.
(i just got tein s-tech springs 2.0 front, .7rear)
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Car Info: '97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
OK, this is one of my favorite topics (alignments, that is), and there's some key bits of information missing here.
First, iNfEk, there's not a chance in hell you want 0 camber (that's camber, by the way, not cHamber
) all around. A Macpherson strut suspension needs some negative camber, especially up front, or the thing will just eat up the outside shoulders of the front tires. At the very least you should go for -1.0deg camber up front, and if you drive at all aggressively, you probably want more like -1.5deg or even more up front. You should also get both sides to match.
In the rear a lot of negative camber isn't quite as important, but can be used to tune the car's handling to some extent. Generally, you want less negative camber in the rear because that way the rear will lose grip first, hence reducing understeer/promoting rotation. You said you had camber bolts installed already - I'm assuming you meant rear camber bolts since your car has stock front camber bolts. If my assumption is wrong, and you don't have rear camber bolts, then your rear camber won't be adjustable. (Unless the Tein Flex has adjustable rear top mounts - does it?)
I agree with acarguy - I'd bet the cost of your alignment that your tire wear problem is due to your toe being off (unless you're running a lot of camber, like more than -2.0deg, and drive like Grandma
). When I had DMS Golds on my car I initially ran -2.25deg camber up front and -1.6deg in the rear and my tire wear was even across the faces of the tires because I ran 0 toe all around and enjoyed carving the winding back roads of New England. 
With the stock front camber bolts, the Tein adjustable pillowball mounts, and the stock toe adjustment a good alignment shop shouldn't have any problem setting your car exactly the way you want it up front. The rear toe also shouldn't be a problem, so really the only question is rear camber, and that depends on whether you have rear camber bolts or not. (They are not stock, so you would have to have added them).
Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
First, iNfEk, there's not a chance in hell you want 0 camber (that's camber, by the way, not cHamber
) all around. A Macpherson strut suspension needs some negative camber, especially up front, or the thing will just eat up the outside shoulders of the front tires. At the very least you should go for -1.0deg camber up front, and if you drive at all aggressively, you probably want more like -1.5deg or even more up front. You should also get both sides to match.In the rear a lot of negative camber isn't quite as important, but can be used to tune the car's handling to some extent. Generally, you want less negative camber in the rear because that way the rear will lose grip first, hence reducing understeer/promoting rotation. You said you had camber bolts installed already - I'm assuming you meant rear camber bolts since your car has stock front camber bolts. If my assumption is wrong, and you don't have rear camber bolts, then your rear camber won't be adjustable. (Unless the Tein Flex has adjustable rear top mounts - does it?)
I agree with acarguy - I'd bet the cost of your alignment that your tire wear problem is due to your toe being off (unless you're running a lot of camber, like more than -2.0deg, and drive like Grandma
). When I had DMS Golds on my car I initially ran -2.25deg camber up front and -1.6deg in the rear and my tire wear was even across the faces of the tires because I ran 0 toe all around and enjoyed carving the winding back roads of New England. 
With the stock front camber bolts, the Tein adjustable pillowball mounts, and the stock toe adjustment a good alignment shop shouldn't have any problem setting your car exactly the way you want it up front. The rear toe also shouldn't be a problem, so really the only question is rear camber, and that depends on whether you have rear camber bolts or not. (They are not stock, so you would have to have added them).
Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
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Posts: 820
From: Mid-Atlantic somewhere
Car Info: '97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
Originally posted by islandx
I've had some strange experience with Island Brake. They told me that they couldn't give me -1.5 camber, the best they could do was 0.
I've had some strange experience with Island Brake. They told me that they couldn't give me -1.5 camber, the best they could do was 0.
Pat
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