STi + UTEC = 308WHP/314WTQ!!
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Pr0n King
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From: The Land of Rocks
Car Info: Turncoat Turbo
STi + UTEC = 308WHP/314WTQ!!
Had the UTEC installed and tuned on my car yesterday afternoon at TurboXS by Nathan and Jermaine. The car put down 308 WHP and 314 WTQ on the dyno. The only power mods were a turboback exhaust and the UTEC.
The car was tuned on 93 octane from a local Mobil station.
The car pulls like a freight train and is real responsive. Peak boost is 20 psi in the midrange tapering to 14.5 psi by redline. Also, the dyno plots were extremely consistent the UTEC whereas they were all over the place with the stock ECU.
I've gotten absolutely no knock even when running 20 psi. I did get one really short CEL flash once but not enough to detect and pull timing - most likely just engine noise.
Jesse
The car was tuned on 93 octane from a local Mobil station.
The car pulls like a freight train and is real responsive. Peak boost is 20 psi in the midrange tapering to 14.5 psi by redline. Also, the dyno plots were extremely consistent the UTEC whereas they were all over the place with the stock ECU.
I've gotten absolutely no knock even when running 20 psi. I did get one really short CEL flash once but not enough to detect and pull timing - most likely just engine noise.
Jesse
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From: Lastweek Lane - Watertown, NY
Car Info: 02WRXpseudoSTiWannabeWagon
That is impressive and gives me hope.
Today I reinvigorated my 'car thinking' (I never thought I'd see the day, but honestly, the car is pretty far in the back of my mind.*)
What are your thoughts on going in one, two or all of these directions?
1. buying some heads and cams.
-I can't quite grasp this issue enough to comparison shop. Options as I see them are two. Maybe there's more. V8 USDM heads & cams; I'd have to work around or integrate the AVCS. V7 or earlier, STI or non, ported, with a selection of JUN cams; questions are: dual vs. single? 264 vs. 272? Full compliment of hardware (springs, shims or not, underbuckets, valves, retainers....I don't even know what this stuff is.)
2. Clutch, flywheel, clutch plate. How many pucks? What material? What's my purpose? Do I want to retain driveability? Does strong clutch and light flywheel mean more power transferred to weak gears, casing, and ring and pinion? Billet vs. aluminium vs. Chromoly?
3. Internals. Replace it all? With what? Including the crank? Should I just go ahead and bore AND stroke?
4. Do I really want to spend this kind of money (that realistically, I still don't have?)
I know I've gone back to my old, wily, posting in the wrong forum ways, but since you all know my, it would seem to streamline my questions and evade the BS.
Aloha from Hell jr (IRAQ is no less than hell from everything I'm hearing. I shouldn't even be whining. I am as safe as you all are right now compared to those poor, selfless souls in Iraq.)
*Footnote as to why I'm thinking about my car lately. My Dad sent me a book on a great Sprint/Midget racer (he really knows how to fuel my fire.
) named Bob Tattersall. Link
Today I reinvigorated my 'car thinking' (I never thought I'd see the day, but honestly, the car is pretty far in the back of my mind.*)
What are your thoughts on going in one, two or all of these directions?
1. buying some heads and cams.
-I can't quite grasp this issue enough to comparison shop. Options as I see them are two. Maybe there's more. V8 USDM heads & cams; I'd have to work around or integrate the AVCS. V7 or earlier, STI or non, ported, with a selection of JUN cams; questions are: dual vs. single? 264 vs. 272? Full compliment of hardware (springs, shims or not, underbuckets, valves, retainers....I don't even know what this stuff is.)
2. Clutch, flywheel, clutch plate. How many pucks? What material? What's my purpose? Do I want to retain driveability? Does strong clutch and light flywheel mean more power transferred to weak gears, casing, and ring and pinion? Billet vs. aluminium vs. Chromoly?
3. Internals. Replace it all? With what? Including the crank? Should I just go ahead and bore AND stroke?
4. Do I really want to spend this kind of money (that realistically, I still don't have?)
I know I've gone back to my old, wily, posting in the wrong forum ways, but since you all know my, it would seem to streamline my questions and evade the BS.
Aloha from Hell jr (IRAQ is no less than hell from everything I'm hearing. I shouldn't even be whining. I am as safe as you all are right now compared to those poor, selfless souls in Iraq.)
*Footnote as to why I'm thinking about my car lately. My Dad sent me a book on a great Sprint/Midget racer (he really knows how to fuel my fire.
) named Bob Tattersall. Link
Last edited by gpatmac; May 17, 2004 at 11:09 AM.
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Car Info: 2004 Subaru STI/WRX Silver of course
Honestly Pat seeing that you never really got it tuned the way you like I would work all the bugs out with what you have then see what path you will take. But if you are going to take the heads off get these the Stage 1.
http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cy.../index.html?en
I was told by the guy who did all my head work on a car I used to have that the titanium retainers were not worth the money they only save you a few ounces I would talk to them about the stage one package. Or you could find a good machine shop to do what they are saying in set menu 1 here http://www.junauto.co.jp/processing/ej20/index.html
Just some options you can find a cheaper place than Jun but you could buy cams, valve springs and retainers from them and just have a machine shop put them in or do it your self I've put valve springs in a heads before just one thing to remember if you take out the valves yourself make sure you put them back in the same hole you took them out of I learned that the hard way ONCE...Valves wear and they match the hole they come out of so I learned if you don't put them back in correctly you get a stuck valve.
http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cy.../index.html?en
I was told by the guy who did all my head work on a car I used to have that the titanium retainers were not worth the money they only save you a few ounces I would talk to them about the stage one package. Or you could find a good machine shop to do what they are saying in set menu 1 here http://www.junauto.co.jp/processing/ej20/index.html
Just some options you can find a cheaper place than Jun but you could buy cams, valve springs and retainers from them and just have a machine shop put them in or do it your self I've put valve springs in a heads before just one thing to remember if you take out the valves yourself make sure you put them back in the same hole you took them out of I learned that the hard way ONCE...Valves wear and they match the hole they come out of so I learned if you don't put them back in correctly you get a stuck valve.
Originally Posted by gpatmac
That is impressive and gives me hope.
Today I reinvigorated my 'car thinking' (I never thought I'd see the day, but honestly, the car is pretty far in the back of my mind.*)
What are your thoughts on going in one, two or all of these directions?
1. buying some heads and cams.
-I can't quite grasp this issue enough to comparison shop. Options as I see them are two. Maybe there's more. V8 USDM heads & cams; I'd have to work around or integrate the AVCS. V7 or earlier, STI or non, ported, with a selection of JUN cams; questions are: dual vs. single? 264 vs. 272? Full compliment of hardware (springs, shims or not, underbuckets, valves, retainers....I don't even know what this stuff is.)
Basically, the 264's are 'more streetable' than the 272's. The 272's have a larger 'lobe'. You can do a combination of say 264 intake cams, and 272 exhaust cams, etc, to get a different powerband effect. There are many places now that will 'work' your stock WRX heads to however you like (and since you'll be back on the mainland, it'll be more feasible). Yes, the 'associated hardware' is neccessary when Upgrading cams.
2. Clutch, flywheel, clutch plate. How many pucks? What material? What's my purpose? Do I want to retain driveability? Does strong clutch and light flywheel mean more power transferred to weak gears, casing, and ring and pinion? Billet vs. aluminium vs. Chromoly?
Unless you're going for all out race, you want a Full Face disk (No Pucks). A carbon kevlar or similar material is desired (and more expensive) b/c it will stand up to more heat and abuse than a organic disk. Flywheel has nothing to do with power transfer in the sense that you're refering, BUT a stronger (which Normally will mean harsher engagement) clutch will be harder on your drivetrain (but you have a stronger drivetrain, so Learn How to Drive!) And aluminum or steel can be billet. Usually the alluminum flywheels are cheaper$, and have a "replaceable" face. Where as when the chromoly flywheels are done, when they're done, ... but are 'stronger' material.
3. Internals. Replace it all? With what? Including the crank? Should I just go ahead and bore AND stroke? How much HP are you looking to get?? If you want 400+ to the wheels, Yes, you're at least looking at getting pistons/rods for reliabilty. It's not neccessary to bore and stroke unless you're just getting flat out crazy. MANY people would kill to have a built 2.5L, let alone more. And do you really need more??? Not worth the $$$$$$$$ in my opinion (considering what you have now).
4. Do I really want to spend this kind of money (that realistically, I still don't have?)
Yes, you only live once. But make sure your boy will have plenty of money to spend as well.
Today I reinvigorated my 'car thinking' (I never thought I'd see the day, but honestly, the car is pretty far in the back of my mind.*)
What are your thoughts on going in one, two or all of these directions?
1. buying some heads and cams.
-I can't quite grasp this issue enough to comparison shop. Options as I see them are two. Maybe there's more. V8 USDM heads & cams; I'd have to work around or integrate the AVCS. V7 or earlier, STI or non, ported, with a selection of JUN cams; questions are: dual vs. single? 264 vs. 272? Full compliment of hardware (springs, shims or not, underbuckets, valves, retainers....I don't even know what this stuff is.)
Basically, the 264's are 'more streetable' than the 272's. The 272's have a larger 'lobe'. You can do a combination of say 264 intake cams, and 272 exhaust cams, etc, to get a different powerband effect. There are many places now that will 'work' your stock WRX heads to however you like (and since you'll be back on the mainland, it'll be more feasible). Yes, the 'associated hardware' is neccessary when Upgrading cams.
2. Clutch, flywheel, clutch plate. How many pucks? What material? What's my purpose? Do I want to retain driveability? Does strong clutch and light flywheel mean more power transferred to weak gears, casing, and ring and pinion? Billet vs. aluminium vs. Chromoly?
Unless you're going for all out race, you want a Full Face disk (No Pucks). A carbon kevlar or similar material is desired (and more expensive) b/c it will stand up to more heat and abuse than a organic disk. Flywheel has nothing to do with power transfer in the sense that you're refering, BUT a stronger (which Normally will mean harsher engagement) clutch will be harder on your drivetrain (but you have a stronger drivetrain, so Learn How to Drive!
) And aluminum or steel can be billet. Usually the alluminum flywheels are cheaper$, and have a "replaceable" face. Where as when the chromoly flywheels are done, when they're done, ... but are 'stronger' material.3. Internals. Replace it all? With what? Including the crank? Should I just go ahead and bore AND stroke? How much HP are you looking to get?? If you want 400+ to the wheels, Yes, you're at least looking at getting pistons/rods for reliabilty. It's not neccessary to bore and stroke unless you're just getting flat out crazy. MANY people would kill to have a built 2.5L, let alone more. And do you really need more??? Not worth the $$$$$$$$ in my opinion (considering what you have now).
4. Do I really want to spend this kind of money (that realistically, I still don't have?)
Yes, you only live once.
But make sure your boy will have plenty of money to spend as well. 
Last edited by Nolimit; May 17, 2004 at 06:43 PM.
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Pr0n King
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From: The Land of Rocks
Car Info: Turncoat Turbo
Flywheel weight has a great effect on inertial transfer, rev of the motor, and the longevity of your drivetrain parts. Definitely something to take into consideration.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 824
From: Austin, TX
Car Info: 2002 WRX Sedan - Silver
Originally Posted by WRXYBOY
Also sucks that we dont have awd dyno's and good tuners down here in hawaii.
Back to the topic at hand:
Pat, I can't help but wonder if it would be wiser to get a good tune on what you currently have. My thinking is that it would make tuning the newer components a little bit easier after you have some sort of a baseline to go off of. Other than that, GO FOR IT ALL!!!
Angry Dan
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Posts: 7,183
From: www.turboculture.com
Car Info: 05 Evo VIII
Originally Posted by funkdrmr
I can't help but wonder if it would be wiser to get a good tune on what you currently have.
This has to #1 on your list.
Then move on from there.
ther are some good tuners on island(dont know if they have worked on subarus).
Gary at sonic's can tune autronic,motec and dta that i know of off hand and justin izumi works with autronic give him enough time he could figure out another program
its just the dyno problem!!!!!
Gary at sonic's can tune autronic,motec and dta that i know of off hand and justin izumi works with autronic give him enough time he could figure out another program
its just the dyno problem!!!!!
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Pr0n King
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From: The Land of Rocks
Car Info: Turncoat Turbo
NEED AWD DYNO! Any rich people with disposable income listening?
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Pat,
Just look at others who have already established what you are looking for. I now am a little more careful on who I take adivce from. From reading your thread about Rigoli, I'm sure you already know what you're doing.
Great post, Sean!
Just look at others who have already established what you are looking for. I now am a little more careful on who I take adivce from. From reading your thread about Rigoli, I'm sure you already know what you're doing.
Great post, Sean!
Originally Posted by IS2Scooby
Flywheel weight has a great effect on inertial transfer, rev of the motor, and the longevity of your drivetrain parts. Definitely something to take into consideration.
just a side note as well, .... I will ALWAYS have a lightened flywheel when I am modding a car. The difference the JUN flywheel made on my WRX was Crazy! I Loved it! It took a little getting used to, only about a day though.
(you wouldn't really want to use a lightened or underdriven crank pulley with this though)
Last edited by Nolimit; May 18, 2004 at 02:01 AM.
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Posts: 146
From: NJ
Car Info: ATR Catback, HKS Downpipe, Injen CAI, 17x7.5 Rota Subzeros/Falken Azenis, Tein HA's, Apexi-SAFC,
hey what i the max boost an STI turbo can handle? I konw stock wrx turbos are not really efficient after 16 PSI so whats the story with the STI VF39?