the best thing to do would be to bring your car to justins house very early (if you're not there already) then have the car up on jack stands and disassembled. take the rotors to checkers and ask them how long it'll take (also have them call you) you can finish the car (shouldn't take that long) and they call you go down to checkers to pick up the rotors and finish. This way you'll be able to bed them properly. Also if you do NOT know how to bed your brakes properly you'll want to check the instructions that came with the pads (if they supplied some) and follow those.

Jon

 

you have my number... call me if you have questions

 

actually, i dont. i thought it was in my phone but its not. you can pm me with it if you want. if justin cant do it this weekend then im gonna just get jack set and do it myself. my garage is just cramped and i would like to have someone who has done it before help me, but im sure i can get it done. if i'm gonna put it up on jacks tho i am going to try and change the oil at the same time. i havent done it myself since i've been in hawaii. what are the disposal laws here? if i get one of those plastic oil catchers that you can seal up can i put that in the trash or do i need to take it somewhere?

 

same here.. i thought i had your number too. at any rate check your PM and let me know

 

yep, $15 per rotor...if you want the rear drum portion done (e-brake), they will charge you like an additional $5 or so per wheel...can't remember...

If you have base privledges...you can get your rotors done for $10/rotor at the autohobby shop near the Naval Exchange...

 

i do have said privelages, but im just gonna do it at checkers, its alot closer as i live in kaneohe. i'm not too worried about the e-brake, it holds well on steep inclines so im not gonna go to the hastle. thanks tho, that gives me a bit more confidence getting it done at checkers. how long did it take them for yours?

 

across from the Windward mall...

I took it in on Friday afternoon...he mic'd them right there in front of me...told me they were in spec...and had them ready for me on Saturday morning...

Worked out fine...had a small install day and a year later...it's still good...like I said though, my only regret was installing my old pads on my newly turned rotors...there were squeaks I had to live with, but oh well, live and learn...

Next time I have my rotors done...guaranteed I will be slapping on "brand new" pads and bedding them in correctly!

 

My point exactly

also as mentioned before but there is only so much you can cut away from the rotor after that you'll need to change the rotor. If you have drilled or slotted rotors the last time I checked Hawaii does NOT have a shop with the right equipment to cut it. I could be wrong though..

Jon

 

I'm runnin the stockie rotors and doubt they have been cut before so there shouldnt be a thickness/cutting issue. i was gonna go down to checkers today and possibly pick up a jack set but ended up talkin to my wife, who is visiting home, for too long haha.

now when you guys say "bedding" the pads, do you mean following the proper break in procedures aka; the proper number of stops from the proper speed with the correct pressure and allowing the proper amount of cooling time ect?

 

yes... Follow the instructions that came with pads to properly bed them.

 

ok, so i got the car on stands and am workin on taking of the rotors. i've never seen this on another car, the driveshaft bolts are dented into a small groove on the drive shaft. is this how its supposed to be (its like that on all four) and if so, do i just bend them back out? i need help quick cause i need to take the rotors in tonight if possible. thanks

 

ummm... thats called a spindle nut and that is NORMAL

 

all you do is wiggle the rotor off and make sure that if you're doing the rear rotors that the ebrake is disengaged.

if you cannot just wiggle it off it means that its stuck and you'll need a RUBBER mallet or two fine threaded bolts that will fit into the two holes in the rotor. you'll need to turn them evenly and the rotor will just slip off

Jon

 

also, WD-40 is your friend as it is also a cleaning agent. spray WD-40 or equivalent into the holes before threading your bolts into it this will help clean out the threads and ease the rotation process. you won't turn to much since the rotor will start to separate form the wheel hub.

 

so once i get the wheels and calipers off, they should just wiggle off, no more bolt turning? the only other car i did brake work on was my grand am and that was totally different from this car. and my pdf manual is useless....