at 30Kmi I changed out all my fluids and the following brake components:

1. Stoptech SS Lines (coated with brackets to mount to struts.
2. RBF600 Synthetic fluid
3. Hawk HPS+ pads
Later, I added the Cusco Master Cylinder Brace...and Project Mu Pads.

The HPS pads were a great improvement over the stock "dust" pads...I would say the dusting reduced by at least 50%. They developed a little squeek as time went by, I attribute this as my fault for not having my rotors done prior to installing the new pads...

Remember, when you change out your pads, consider having your rotors turned/cut...and to properly bed in your pads...

I've yet to find a location where I can change out my pads and properly bed them in...

 

well, i ordered the machV SS lines and Hawk HPS front and rear pads as well as the ATE Super Blue racing fluid and some speed bleeders. now, i wait.... just need to get the new engine belts now and i should be ready to rock the next install day

i'll let everyone know how the combination works out.

 

Stoptech lines...and yes they make a big difference in the feel. I also felt like it was easier to control them especially at Auto-x.

Whatever you do, don't get Axxis Ultimates...I've been told they bite big donkey *****.

 

You'll be happy with the new brake performance...trust me. Let us know how those MachV lines are...never heard of those before.

 

yea, i hope so. between my wearing pads, rubber lines and the fact that the fluid hasnt been changed or bled in about 10,000 miles, the ol pedal was gettin kinda soft. i will keep you guys posted on the results.

 

well, everything arrived today and all seems to be in order. now on to the installation...

 

did you have your rotors cut? If not then the new pads that you just bought won't bed properly causing premature squeaking. Just cause you hear squeaking when you stop doesn't mean you have to change pads.

Well looks like you have the things you need to be proactive. I would recommend having your rotors cut though. If not make sure you use flare nut wrenches to take off the stock lines and secure the new ones... If not its definitely possible to damage the soft material they are made of.

Jon

 

well as for the squeaking, there is some occasional brake noise, but the noise that concernes me is different than normal break squeal. its that real high pitched noise you get when you start rubbin the squealers at the end of the pad life (oem subaru pads do have squealers right?). its still very subtle and doesnt happen everytime but regardless, i've put a good 10,000 miles on the car since I bought it (some of those miles with good spirit ) and i'm not sure when the guy before me performed maintenance/changed any of the brake components before that. the pedal feel and stopping power is definitly not what it used to be. I'm sure the lines need to be bled and i've been meaning to upgrade the pads regarless of wear, so why not just flush the system with better fluid, put better pads on and SS lines all at once? seems like a good idea to me:RockOn - not mine:

As for having the rotors cut, I dont know who does that around here (i'm on the kaneohe side) and how much it costs. I briefly thought about it, but dont know how long its gonna take and thats my daily driver. can you just drop it off at a shop and have them do it while you wait? anyone have an estimate on cost? can i get my a/c recharged at the same time, lol (thats a joke). lemme kno.

 

well since the brakes are "mushy" then it's probably due for a brake fluid flush but if you're going to do that then yes it's recommended to do all the things that you're doing to resolve the issue. "squealers" do you mean the wear indicator on the pads...? yes they do have them and after market ones usually have them as well. depending on the size of your rotors it will depend on the cost. Most machine shops will do them, Redline does it and I believe checkers might as well.

Most times you'll have to drop them off and they'll call you when their ready. It doesn't take long depending on their work load. You'll have to check with the shop to determine if they will do them on the spot. If they do then it'll cost more. Their about $35 a rotor. It beats buying a new rotor everytime you change your pads. Rotors don't last forever and only have a small amount of tolerance as to how much can be "cut" away from the surface. You'll want to check when doing you're brake job if you have a lip on the edge of the rotor. If you do then it is DEFINITELY recommended that you have your rotors cut BEFORE putting on the new pads.

NO YOU CANNOT HAVE THEM RECHARGE YOUR AC WHILE YOU WAIT... LOL

Jon

 

gay.... well i guess i'll mosey on down to checkers tomorrow and see what they say. problem is that i dont have jackstands at home, or a decent jack for that matter. i think my neighbor might but im not too keen about leaven my car hangin on jackstands for several days while i wait tho.... i took a look at the rotors and the rear ones are pretty much smooth to the edge with a slight imperfection at the edge that can barely be felt with a fingernail. the fronts have a slightly larger "lip" that is maybe a 1/4 to 1/3 mm. how much is tolerable or is it pretty much if you can feel it they need to be done?

 

yes

 

I called checkers this morning and they said they do cut rotors and test for proper thickness standards and charge $15 bucks per rotor. So, im gonna TRY and get that done maybe tonight. This might sound kinda noobish but its not that big a deal if i put them back on the car and drive to where i am gonna change out the old pads (aka justins house haha) after they are cut right?

 

how are you going to stop if you take them off the car? you won't even have an ebrake to pull if it's off the car. further you'll need to have the rotors before you do any brake upgrades (for the pads anyway) since you'll need to bed them properly and without the rotors on the car you cannot.

 

no no lol. i mean when they are done, put them back on the car for a short road trip. so the fresh cut rotors with the old pads for a short amount of time.

 

i guess but the whole purpose of the new pads and rotors are to bed the new pads ONTO the newly cut rotor surface. if you use old pads on the new surface it's defeating the purpose. how long is a "short amount of time"

Jon