Soooo I looked on NASIOC and Youtube for a solution but most of the threads wander off into why they should just buy a wideband instead (ON MY LIST FOR MY NEXT MOD). So after a god awful wireing job and horribly ghetto gauge mounts I have it almost done. I just do not understand how to read a wiring diagram. Can someone tell me which color wire on the rear sensor do I tap the signal into???
Also should I tap in under the car or at the ECU? I feel like at the sensor is better just in case anything gets all buggy I can just replace the sensor

 

those threads are 100% right. a far gauge will never be as accurate as the wideband. on top of that your not gonna be tapping into your edu wiring and possibly mess up wires (not worth the 40 bucks you save over a sideband kit)

i know this is not what you asked but my advice will save you headache in the long run and possibly your car

 

So I tapped the rear one at the blue. Either it's wrong or I'm in the red on a day to day basis and pnly green at half throttle. Also did the front with the other input but only shows green when car is off and goes yellow when I start so ill keep an update. I am looking to grab a wide band soon so that will fill spot 3 on my ghetto fab gauge pod

 

Non-wideband AFR's are just a light show. The colors don't mean anything on most of them.

 

Agreed, get an Innovate or AEM wideband, not worth splicing into the ECU.

 

Let just delete this thread because it ended up the same as every other on the Internet.

I know wideband is where it's at and plan on one but the narrow I have is currently in a non returnable state( spray painted backside

 

then chuck it in the trash and wait.

 

You can't install a AFR gauge into a Subaru since the voltage on the signal wire is higher then most cars..just hook it up to a constant power because it will do the same thing rather hooked up to the o2 or not.. It's not gonna flash back and forth like you want it to.

 

The narrowband gauges are useless, but I did use an Autometer 0-1v narrowband with my PLX Devices M-300 wideband. The M-300 was very basic and displayed the A/F in numberical format on the face of the box but the unit did allow for me to output to a narrowband so it translated the 0-5v signal to display correctly on a 0-1v. I still didn't rely on the lights much.

 

See now there was a more solid argument. Removing the bich

 

actually if I am not mistaken. the narrowband is not 100% worthless. you can hook it up to your front O2 for a visual light show and ensure that your at the very minimum of stoich (14.7) for idle. helpful when your tuning everyday driving and idle. but then again you can do this with ROM Raider and have logging capability for free.

 

the main o2 sensor is still a 0 - 1v sensor. it is what the ecu calibrates on for closed loop operation. as long as its bouncing back and forth during non-wot operation, you know that its probably fairly close to stoich, and that the o2 sensor is working. when you're at wot, it should be pegged, so it's a bit useless there.

 

Takes a hot minute to get warmed up but the rear input is working. Will go green when cruising and bounce every once and a while. Wot gets pegged. This gauge has dual inputs for like v8 applications with dual exhaust but I tried to wire up to the front sensor but I am getting nothing.

 

I gave in! Yay





EDIT: aaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnddddddddddd two seconds in I am already stumped. I dunno how to mount my gauge!. Lolz it is weird.

 

Actually the front 02 reads pretty accurate to about 12:1 despite its dynamic range.
The reason why it's inaccurate has to do with back pressure. I've actually compared the front 02 to a wideband installed at the outlet of the downpipe right next to a wideband and they read pretty close to about 11:1, which is the sensor's range.

This is why you don't want to install a wideband on your header's primaries, as it'll wig out as exhaust temps go up and backpresure in the primaries increase. If you're a cheap *** you could move the front 02 to the downpipe outlet and actually get rough AFRs. I just wouldn't recommend it.
You should be able to open your fusebox and pull from the cigarette lighter to power the wideband. Just be sure NOT to remove your rear 02 without a custom ROM that disables to rear 02 from the routines (I forget if you have a DBW car). Most people will say that it doesn't matter, but they only say that because they don't know what the hell they're talking about.