i once had a VF11 which had to be opened up at the compressor housing because it was filled with sludge. and then i had it rotated to allow to fit with the USDM wrx intercooler. all VF series are clockable at the compressor housing to accommodate your fmic needs, dunno if Mitsubishi TD series turbos can do the same. this is my VF28 which i just got. lets start.

okay, see the 8mm bolts behind the compressor housing and on the wastegate actuator bracket (wastegate actuator not pictured, already removed)? these will need to come off.



next step is to use a soft hammer and gently tap on the backside of the compressor housing on all sides until you see it coming off. when you do, very slowly, pull it off where you wont nick or bang on the compressor blades.



when you take it off, all you'll see in the back is some kind of permatex hi-temp silicone sealant on either side of the compressor housing and turbo itself.



clean it off, reseal it with hi-temp silicone. DO NOT over apply, otherwise it'll bleed into the discharge section and get sucked into your engine.



put your compressor housing back on to your desired position and bolt it back up. note that i will still be using my ewg so i can rotate it to whatever position as i please. for iwg setups, you're limited to a certain amount of rotation because the wastegate actuator will hit the compressor outlet. you can drill holes on your iwg bracket to match the bolt holes on the compressor housing.







with the clocked housing, there won't be any 180 degree hotside IC piping positioned over the turbo, causing heat soak. this mod will remove about 18-24 inches of IC piping on my setup = less lag. yay!!

joe

 

intresting....

 

could you just loosen it up...then just move the compressor housing? or the bolts have to come completely off?

4th pic...thats too nice of a table to put the turbo on top...

 

nope. once you get the bolts off, its still glued together by the silicone sealant.

yeah i know, that's a 70(ish) year old korean table from my wife's great grandfather. its strong oak with glass on top. the bubble wrap protected it really well.

 

Fascinating disassemble. Clear and crisp instructions. This gives inspiration towards viewers.

in other words, "good ****" Joe.

 

Nice write up. Thanks!

Have you ever had problems with leaks from the compressor housing after doing this?

 

never had problems. as long as you reseal the housing, it should be fine. as a matter of fact, the compressor housing and compressor plate themselves have very tight tolerances to prevent leaks. the hi-temp silicone is just there for mostly added bonding between both surfaces.

 

Cool thread, but intercooler piping doesn't cause lag. If anything it reduces lag by working like a surge tank...

 

true...but it could increase lag right? or care to explain?

 

surge tank? i don't think so. the time it takes for the turbo to fill a lengthly pipe with pressurized air is lag. shortening the pipes will reduce lag dramatically.

 

okay, i had to dig into my archives, here's the good ol' leggy VF11 that i clocked. notice how the original position is about 45 degrees. after the rotation, it ended up at a wee bit past 90 degrees.

 

figure i add this while its apart. i used VHT primer, base, and clear for this DIY project. its pretty easy to do yourself if you don't plan on sending it to a shop that does a better and for a much higher price. if you can read the instructions on the can, you're good to go. basically, i did two coats of each and baked them in the oven at 30 min on/off intervals, at 250, 400, 600 degrees respectively (HECO bill is going up da ***). lol

compressor housing with primer



then base/clear



baked and ready





turbine section masked out and primered



base/clear



baked/finished product



up close. looks brand spankin' new



now gotta put it back together and slap this b*tch on, on my next oil change.

 

wow!!! you got a spare oven to some special cooking!!! was curious if you have a powdercoating gun kit as well? maybe future investment

looks good joe!