How to clock *ANY* VF series turbo compressor housing
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Posts: 1,049
Car Info: 2015 CWP STI
How to clock *ANY* VF series turbo compressor housing
i once had a VF11 which had to be opened up at the compressor housing because it was filled with sludge. and then i had it rotated to allow to fit with the USDM wrx intercooler. all VF series are clockable at the compressor housing to accommodate your fmic needs, dunno if Mitsubishi TD series turbos can do the same. this is my VF28 which i just got. lets start.
okay, see the 8mm bolts behind the compressor housing and on the wastegate actuator bracket (wastegate actuator not pictured, already removed)? these will need to come off.
next step is to use a soft hammer and gently tap on the backside of the compressor housing on all sides until you see it coming off. when you do, very slowly, pull it off where you wont nick or bang on the compressor blades.
when you take it off, all you'll see in the back is some kind of permatex hi-temp silicone sealant on either side of the compressor housing and turbo itself.
clean it off, reseal it with hi-temp silicone. DO NOT over apply, otherwise it'll bleed into the discharge section and get sucked into your engine.
put your compressor housing back on to your desired position and bolt it back up. note that i will still be using my ewg so i can rotate it to whatever position as i please. for iwg setups, you're limited to a certain amount of rotation because the wastegate actuator will hit the compressor outlet. you can drill holes on your iwg bracket to match the bolt holes on the compressor housing.
with the clocked housing, there won't be any 180 degree hotside IC piping positioned over the turbo, causing heat soak. this mod will remove about 18-24 inches of IC piping on my setup = less lag. yay!!
joe
okay, see the 8mm bolts behind the compressor housing and on the wastegate actuator bracket (wastegate actuator not pictured, already removed)? these will need to come off.
next step is to use a soft hammer and gently tap on the backside of the compressor housing on all sides until you see it coming off. when you do, very slowly, pull it off where you wont nick or bang on the compressor blades.
when you take it off, all you'll see in the back is some kind of permatex hi-temp silicone sealant on either side of the compressor housing and turbo itself.
clean it off, reseal it with hi-temp silicone. DO NOT over apply, otherwise it'll bleed into the discharge section and get sucked into your engine.
put your compressor housing back on to your desired position and bolt it back up. note that i will still be using my ewg so i can rotate it to whatever position as i please. for iwg setups, you're limited to a certain amount of rotation because the wastegate actuator will hit the compressor outlet. you can drill holes on your iwg bracket to match the bolt holes on the compressor housing.
with the clocked housing, there won't be any 180 degree hotside IC piping positioned over the turbo, causing heat soak. this mod will remove about 18-24 inches of IC piping on my setup = less lag. yay!!
joe
Last edited by joejoe69; 01-03-2009 at 06:14 PM.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Posts: 1,049
Car Info: 2015 CWP STI
yeah i know, that's a 70(ish) year old korean table from my wife's great grandfather. its strong oak with glass on top. the bubble wrap protected it really well.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Posts: 1,049
Car Info: 2015 CWP STI
never had problems. as long as you reseal the housing, it should be fine. as a matter of fact, the compressor housing and compressor plate themselves have very tight tolerances to prevent leaks. the hi-temp silicone is just there for mostly added bonding between both surfaces.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Posts: 1,049
Car Info: 2015 CWP STI
surge tank? i don't think so. the time it takes for the turbo to fill a lengthly pipe with pressurized air is lag. shortening the pipes will reduce lag dramatically.
Last edited by joejoe69; 01-07-2009 at 04:03 AM.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Posts: 1,049
Car Info: 2015 CWP STI
okay, i had to dig into my archives, here's the good ol' leggy VF11 that i clocked. notice how the original position is about 45 degrees. after the rotation, it ended up at a wee bit past 90 degrees.
Last edited by joejoe69; 01-07-2009 at 04:33 AM.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Posts: 1,049
Car Info: 2015 CWP STI
BONUS: How to ceramic coat compressor/turbine housings
figure i add this while its apart. i used VHT primer, base, and clear for this DIY project. its pretty easy to do yourself if you don't plan on sending it to a shop that does a better and for a much higher price. if you can read the instructions on the can, you're good to go. basically, i did two coats of each and baked them in the oven at 30 min on/off intervals, at 250, 400, 600 degrees respectively (HECO bill is going up da ***). lol
compressor housing with primer
then base/clear
baked and ready
turbine section masked out and primered
base/clear
baked/finished product
up close. looks brand spankin' new
now gotta put it back together and slap this b*tch on, on my next oil change.
compressor housing with primer
then base/clear
baked and ready
turbine section masked out and primered
base/clear
baked/finished product
up close. looks brand spankin' new
now gotta put it back together and slap this b*tch on, on my next oil change.
Last edited by joejoe69; 01-07-2009 at 04:53 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JourdanWithaU
NorCal Classifieds
11
07-28-2014 05:23 PM
VRT MBasile
Interior, Exterior & Lighting
2
07-29-2005 08:14 AM
t3ch9
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
8
05-16-2005 10:47 PM