door speaker / sound system upgrades
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From: HNL, HI and behind a viewfinder :D
Car Info: 2011 White Forester.
Originally Posted by luktang
John,
MB Quarts kick tails. Infinity is not bad. Focal is the best, but they are too expensive. The spacer should work... I heard good things about them. If you want subs... I recommend JL... they're very good.
MB Quarts kick tails. Infinity is not bad. Focal is the best, but they are too expensive. The spacer should work... I heard good things about them. If you want subs... I recommend JL... they're very good.
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From: HNL, HI and behind a viewfinder :D
Car Info: 2011 White Forester.
Originally Posted by iNfEk
where can I get them locally and how much can I expect to pay.
I do have a single monitor hooked up to my deck... it's the Mattjk screen... I love it!
what's the difference between coaxal and the other type?
On iaperformance they have a couple of different models that they suggest to work with their spacers... what's the difference between these models?
5.25"
QSD 213
RCE 213
PCE 213
6.50"
DSC 216
PCE 216
QSD 216
RCE 216
Jon
I do have a single monitor hooked up to my deck... it's the Mattjk screen... I love it!
what's the difference between coaxal and the other type?
On iaperformance they have a couple of different models that they suggest to work with their spacers... what's the difference between these models?
5.25"
QSD 213
RCE 213
PCE 213
6.50"
DSC 216
PCE 216
QSD 216
RCE 216
Jon
Well..."my friend" at Car Audio and Security Specialists carries MB Quarts. They do "ok" work but you gotta make sure that either the skinny vietnamese/thai OR the buff asian dudes do your install. The other guys kinda suck and the two good guys always have to come back and fix their mistakes. I would just buy it from him and DIY.
RCE is the "Reference" level for MB Quart...not bad $160 MSRP
PCE is the "Premium" Level for MB Quart...good I have these...$270 MSRP
QSD is the Q-series which is the top level for MB Quart...outstanding clarity as long as you power them right...$450 MSRP
Components = Tweeter and Woofer are separate and mount separate...most times
Coaxial = Tweeter is mounted to the woofer usually by way of a bracket or through the middle dust cap of the woofer.
GET THE COMPONENTS.
RCE is the "Reference" level for MB Quart...not bad $160 MSRP
PCE is the "Premium" Level for MB Quart...good I have these...$270 MSRP
QSD is the Q-series which is the top level for MB Quart...outstanding clarity as long as you power them right...$450 MSRP
Components = Tweeter and Woofer are separate and mount separate...most times
Coaxial = Tweeter is mounted to the woofer usually by way of a bracket or through the middle dust cap of the woofer.
GET THE COMPONENTS.
Thread Starter
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
holy crap! what the hell happened to just plug n play ****... why do I have to have so much technical stuff just to have a nice sound system
oh well guess that's how the cookie crumbles.
I'd probably do the wiring...etc. myself since it won't be hard to follow a wire diagram or good directions.
I've never wired up a system like this but I should be pretty straight forward right?

what is that little box that is in this picture?
Jon
oh well guess that's how the cookie crumbles.I'd probably do the wiring...etc. myself since it won't be hard to follow a wire diagram or good directions.
I've never wired up a system like this but I should be pretty straight forward right?

what is that little box that is in this picture?
Jon
Nice choice!!!!
That little box is the crossover. Both your right and left component sets will have 1. You run wiring from your radio or amp to that, and then the speaker and tweeter are wired to designated places there on the crossover.
That little box is the crossover. Both your right and left component sets will have 1. You run wiring from your radio or amp to that, and then the speaker and tweeter are wired to designated places there on the crossover.
Thread Starter
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
yup.... I'll probably have to get the CHEAPEST one they make since I'm a POOR BASTARD NOW!
since I have to get 4 of them 
Jon
since I have to get 4 of them 
Jon
I wish I'd stumbled on this thread earlier. San made a very good point where he stated that he likes to have the same level going to both front and rear. This is something that has been LARGELY debated in the audio world for a long time now, and I don't want to argue. Just to make a suggestion, though:
Musically speaking, you want to be able to hear the music as if the band was standing on your dash and playing. With movies, I'd be a little more concerned about the rear fill than if I just liked to listen to music.
If you're strapped for $$$ right now, and want to do everything right, I'd get the best you can get up front first. Then fill the rears.
Musically speaking, you want to be able to hear the music as if the band was standing on your dash and playing. With movies, I'd be a little more concerned about the rear fill than if I just liked to listen to music.
If you're strapped for $$$ right now, and want to do everything right, I'd get the best you can get up front first. Then fill the rears.
If money is really an issue you should determine an amount you're willing to spend and go form there. A decent budget system normally includes a head unit, front components, a 4-channel amp, and a single sub. Since you already have a deck you should appropriate money to the front speakers, the amp, and then your sub.....thats their order of significance when determining how your system will sound. Speakers are all a matter of preference....people can give opinions on whats best.....but you must determine this for yourself. In most cases people can give you an idea on the type of sound from different brands but you should narrow your choices, grab some music, and listen to them ALL if possible.
Use the stock tweeter brackets or metal backstrap to mount the tweeters.
And San's right....there aren't any low to mid level components that'll play anywhere near 40hz....and in my opinion you won't get very good response below 80hz without a fair amount of dampening in your doors (this makes a HUGE difference). Sound dampening is the best way to get the most out of what you have. It'll allow better SQ and greatly improved efficiency (less power and cleaner sound).
I'm running Boston Z6s, 5.5Pros, Xtant1.1s, Xtant6.1, Alumapro cap, and a single 12.
Send me a pm and we can talk.....I'll give you some unbiased and biased opinions and descriptions
Use the stock tweeter brackets or metal backstrap to mount the tweeters.
And San's right....there aren't any low to mid level components that'll play anywhere near 40hz....and in my opinion you won't get very good response below 80hz without a fair amount of dampening in your doors (this makes a HUGE difference). Sound dampening is the best way to get the most out of what you have. It'll allow better SQ and greatly improved efficiency (less power and cleaner sound).
I'm running Boston Z6s, 5.5Pros, Xtant1.1s, Xtant6.1, Alumapro cap, and a single 12.
Send me a pm and we can talk.....I'll give you some unbiased and biased opinions and descriptions
Originally Posted by bpang1
Use the money for 2 reference series and buy the PCE or Q series for the fronts and wait on the rears.



I'm a front stage man too. LOL