Both of the filters are made by the same company Champion, so both of them have the threads set back further then the Purolators. I tried to install a Mobil 1 filter today (104), but it only threaded on 2 1/2 turns. I'm just not comfortable with that. I changed it to a Pure One for now which threads on like seven turns. I'd rather use the Mobil 1 or a K&N they work much better according to the research I've done, so I'd like to know what you guys have done. The only other thing I can think of is to substitute a longer nipple in the oil filter housing which I'm sure won't be easy to find.
As a sidenote I took off the original filter today. It's not a Purolator it's made in Japan and has I think it has a much better build quality then the ones that Suby dealers here use. I'm gonna post some pics of it when I get my digital camera back for those interested.

I just got off the phone with Champion and the rep told me that they don't make a filter for the 2.5, and I said the 104 does fit , but only threads on 2 1/2 turns, he said that's why we can't recommend it. So Be Careful, one good surge could pop the filter right off! Now I'm going to find out if I can substitute a longer nipple in the filter housing and/or see if Amsoil has a filter that will work.

 

Here's one pic of the OE filter.

 

Here's one more, notice how the part # differs from the OE filters we can buy here (15208-AA060) and the one in the photo (15208-AA024)

 

I think it's a strong possibility that the reason the original filter is different is the fact that the Purolators are made in the US. It would cost more than it's worth to ship 100,000 oil filters to Japan every year just to send them back on the car. No reason to think that the Purolator is inferior to the one that comes from Japan based on that issue. I wouldn't mind seeing a comparison of the internals though. Any volunteers about to conduct their first oil change?

 

I agree with you Ban Suvs, It would be dumb to ship filters to Japan, and though the Purolators are good they are not the best they usually finish behind Mobil 1, K&N, Harddriver, and Amsoil. Yes I know I'm probably being to critical , but I do want the best on my car. By the way if you want to cut apart that oil filter in the pics for a test let me know I'll put in a freezer bag and send it to ya

 

ever check out Hastings oil filters?

 

Atually I'd be using Bosch myself if I could find them anywhere in town stocked. As it is, I trust the OE Purolator. It's big enough and has a check valve. It's real hard to make much comparison beyond that. Besides, at almost $3 dealer cost, I doubt they're too cheaply made.

 

From what I've found the Purolator is a better filter then the Bosch. The Bosch is also made by Champion, but unlike the sythetic elements in the Mobil1 and K&N it uses a paper element which I've read is fragile and apparently the only weak spot in the design. The Purolator is on the opposite side of the spectrum having one of the strongest paper elements. These websites helped me out I thought some of you out there might find them informative. http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-o...n-oilpart5.htm

 

Hi 77 Sunset, I did check out Hastings and I'm not positive, but I think they're the lower line of Amsoil filters. Their cheaper cost leads me to that conclusion, and since I haven't heard the best about even the Amsoil filters I didn't do extensive research into Hastings.

 

K&N, Mobil 1, OE Purolator, in that order.

 

Hey Snowman , your right they don't screw on enough. I just got my hands on a stock oil filter stem and I'm going to have a machine shop use it as a template to make a slightly longer one so I can use a Mobil 1 filter. I like that filter better because even though the K&N has 17% more media I've read that the Mobil 1 has a better multi-pass rating. With a longer stem though the Mobil 1 M1-104 is the one to go with, otherwise with the stock stem I think the best one to go with is the Pure One.

 

I'm going to have the stem made this week. In case anyone wants to go through the trouble of having it done I'll try and save them one step by getting the spec sheet for the stem after it's made and post it. That should be all a machinist should need to make the part. The cost is going to be around $60 bucks, but I'll know more once I see the machinist.