N/A EJ25 power limits
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From: Mid-Atlantic somewhere
Car Info: '97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
Originally posted by ImprezaRSX
is the fidanza flywheel the aluminum one? I have heard a lot of sketchy history of this flywheel. Your best bet is a lightened ONE Piece (not two or three like the aluminum flywheels) chromoly flywheel. they are stronger and more reliable.
is the fidanza flywheel the aluminum one? I have heard a lot of sketchy history of this flywheel. Your best bet is a lightened ONE Piece (not two or three like the aluminum flywheels) chromoly flywheel. they are stronger and more reliable.
I've heard nothing but good things about them - what have you heard?
Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
So anyways...
I decided the very first real mod (K&N doesn't really count) is going to be a set of Borlas. Since dRu888 apparently already sold his, I'm looking for a vendor. Is there anybody beating Gruppe S's price?
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I think we have strayed a little from the topic of this thread.
IF, IF, IF.... If I put dual SB350 one for each rear tire with pulling cams that redline at 3K and then just directly linked them to the axle with nothing but a clutch I could go 400mph and do the 1/4 in 10 with the tires spinning the whole way. But am I no.
What the guy probably wants to hear is:
$1K in parts will get you to the 190Bhp range
$2K in parts will get you to the 220Bhp range
$3K in parts will get you to the 245bhp range
add $1K in certified tuning to the above and you will get maybe 10 more hp and more drivablity.
$5K in parts will get you to the 275 range.
If you spend $100K you can trade you EJ25 for a custom long block that can be spun to 11K rpms and the fuel management to make 700+ hp.
If you can do the work yourself, you will save money.
Bottom line is that you will not make power without fuel and air getting in the motor. Then you have to have the correct mixture to get the power. Spend you money on a Fuel Management system of your choice and your will get power. Everything else after that is to allow more air to go in through the motor.
Tim (aka Captian Obvious)
(Sorry, just reread this and I got a headache trying to get through it. I did some grammer corrections so not to look like a complete idiot.)
IF, IF, IF.... If I put dual SB350 one for each rear tire with pulling cams that redline at 3K and then just directly linked them to the axle with nothing but a clutch I could go 400mph and do the 1/4 in 10 with the tires spinning the whole way. But am I no.
What the guy probably wants to hear is:
$1K in parts will get you to the 190Bhp range
$2K in parts will get you to the 220Bhp range
$3K in parts will get you to the 245bhp range
add $1K in certified tuning to the above and you will get maybe 10 more hp and more drivablity.
$5K in parts will get you to the 275 range.
If you spend $100K you can trade you EJ25 for a custom long block that can be spun to 11K rpms and the fuel management to make 700+ hp.
If you can do the work yourself, you will save money.
Bottom line is that you will not make power without fuel and air getting in the motor. Then you have to have the correct mixture to get the power. Spend you money on a Fuel Management system of your choice and your will get power. Everything else after that is to allow more air to go in through the motor.
Tim (aka Captian Obvious)
(Sorry, just reread this and I got a headache trying to get through it. I did some grammer corrections so not to look like a complete idiot.)
Last edited by tim smith; Jan 3, 2003 at 02:23 PM.
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From: Mid-Atlantic somewhere
Car Info: '97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
Originally posted by tim smith
What the guy probably wants to hear is:
$1K in parts will get you to the 190Bhp range
$2K in parts will get you to the 220Bhp range
$3K in parts will get you to the 245bhp range
add $1K in sertified tuning to the above and you will get maybe 10 more hp and mroe drivablity.
$5K in parts will get you to the 275 range
What the guy probably wants to hear is:
$1K in parts will get you to the 190Bhp range
$2K in parts will get you to the 220Bhp range
$3K in parts will get you to the 245bhp range
add $1K in sertified tuning to the above and you will get maybe 10 more hp and mroe drivablity.
$5K in parts will get you to the 275 range
I hope the above numbers were just provided as an example of what you think the guy wanted to hear, and were not provided as fact. If there are provided as fact, then I hope you were talking about turbo kits or NOS.
There's not a snowball's chance in hell that $2000 worth of parts is going to get a N/A 2.5L up to 220hp. Based on personal, dyno-proven experience, $4000+ worth of parts will get you in the 205-210hp range. It will take lots and lots more money to get a N/A 2.5L up to WRX levels, let alone STi levels (275hp).
Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by Patrick Olsen
Tim,
I hope the above numbers were just provided as an example of what you think the guy wanted to hear, and were not provided as fact. If there are provided as fact, then I hope you were talking about turbo kits or NOS.
There's not a snowball's chance in hell that $2000 worth of parts is going to get a N/A 2.5L up to 220hp. Based on personal, dyno-proven experience, $4000+ worth of parts will get you in the 205-210hp range. It will take lots and lots more money to get a N/A 2.5L up to WRX levels, let alone STi levels (275hp).
Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
Tim,
I hope the above numbers were just provided as an example of what you think the guy wanted to hear, and were not provided as fact. If there are provided as fact, then I hope you were talking about turbo kits or NOS.
There's not a snowball's chance in hell that $2000 worth of parts is going to get a N/A 2.5L up to 220hp. Based on personal, dyno-proven experience, $4000+ worth of parts will get you in the 205-210hp range. It will take lots and lots more money to get a N/A 2.5L up to WRX levels, let alone STi levels (275hp).
Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
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From: In Dad's garage.
Car Info: MY02 GD WAGON, MY87 AW11
The power lies in headwork with properly matched camshafts. But you also have to take into consederation a good flowing induction as well as extraction system to match the flow of the heads. I'd put half of my total engine budget towards the heads, n/a or not.
The key here is getting a properly matched set up.
-scu.
The key here is getting a properly matched set up.
-scu.
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Clearifying
No they were various parts to get it to those power levels. Includings cams, SAFS, etc. No NOS. I don't believe in it. And they were not vendor quotes just educated guesses. I could easily get those power numbers with the above money. But I do my own work. Sorry to mislead on that point. If you do some looking you can do anything with almost any reasonable amount of money. With a couple of sponcers you could get the above work done for free (plus the time you invest). All you have to do is tell a company that you will drive your car around with thier logo on it if they provide X amount of money and the Logo will grow with the amount of sponcered money. But that is really beyond the scope if this thread. Sorry again to mislead, but they are examples of what I could do with that money. Edit: And the power measurements were at the crank.
Tim (Have a good weekend everyone because I will!)
Tim (Have a good weekend everyone because I will!)
Last edited by tim smith; Jan 3, 2003 at 02:18 PM.
Bumpity
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I dont know Pat, I seen a Dyno chart for someones RS that only had a catback, pulleys, and intake ( I think, it was minimal compared to the work that you done) and they dynoed 3HP lower than you did. Maybe the SOHC engine responds a little differently to mods. I figure that once I buy a SAFC, Cat, and Cams at income tax time, I should be over 200 HP with the following mods.
Ganz with K&N
Borla->TWE Cat->Stromung Catback
N1 Style Pulleys
Cobb Cams
PROECM Chip
APEXI SAFC
After this, I'll probably just do little mods like Boring the TB and such until I get my down payment for my house taken care of.
Ganz with K&N
Borla->TWE Cat->Stromung Catback
N1 Style Pulleys
Cobb Cams
PROECM Chip
APEXI SAFC
After this, I'll probably just do little mods like Boring the TB and such until I get my down payment for my house taken care of.
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Posts: 70
From: Pennsylvania
Car Info: 1998 Subaru RS 2.5 (soon to be N/A beast)
New Plan Of Attack On Intake Manifold
Hello everyone (DCoty especially). I have a new plan of attack on the intake manifold. My professor looked at the stock one and he decided that he wants to design one out of sheet metal, but we'll have to wait a month or two until i get the heads flowed, ported and the engine back in the car to test it once it's done. He knows his stuff inside and out and has tons of experience with all types of racing and engines. I can't wait until this car is done. I have decided to take out a personal loan to get everything at once; engine, suspension, braking, ecu, etc. This car is going to be mean when it's done. I'm shooting for the highest hp naturally aspirated without doing bottom half work. When I build that 12:1 block, that will make it the end all monster N/A beast! Muwhahahahah(insane laughter).........
Nathan
P.S. Dan, how's the car. I called LaChute about valve springs and Ben hasn't gotten back to me. I have been calling almost every day, but it seems that he is always in a meeting or out with a customer. Drop me a PM or post on here. Lata.
Nathan
P.S. Dan, how's the car. I called LaChute about valve springs and Ben hasn't gotten back to me. I have been calling almost every day, but it seems that he is always in a meeting or out with a customer. Drop me a PM or post on here. Lata.
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From: Reno, NV
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Did any of you guys subscribed to this thread see the dyno chart for i-Speed's RS with the Ludespeed kit? 245 hp/285 ft.lbs. at the wheels, with no other mods! That's Double the horsepower, with a near-flat curve for $4300 plus some tuning, maybe $400 or so. No chance at doing that N/A for that money.
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