Expected life of O2 sensor?
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Expected life of O2 sensor?
I originally posted this at RS25club.com, but havn't gotten any responses. Maybe this site gets more traffic.
Hi all,
I am a new owner of an 2000 Blue RS coupe . Love it! Recently the Check engine light came on and stayed on. I read a post at Scoobymods.com about recalls on O2 sensors, and took it the dealer. They told me that it was changed on the car in May of 2001. Whats the expected life on these things?
They also want a minimum of 40 dollars to diagnose it. Kind of upsets me that I have had the car less than a month and they won't even look at it for free. I would understand parts and labor if it wasn't covered under warranty, but you would think they would try and help a new owner out. Now I am likely to take the car somewhere else for service. It seems to be running fine, and I haven't noticed a difference in the way it drives.
Anyone Near Olathe or Kansas City willing to help me pull a code? I saw the device at Autozone, but with tags and what not, will have to wait until I can afford it.
Also, the previous owner added a cat-back system that is labeled COBB on the muffler tip. I think this is a Stromung cat-back, but not sure. The catalytic converter(s) look stock, but not sure if the headers are stock or not. Both O2 sensors look to be in their original places. Thoughts?
Thanks
Kevin
Hi all,
I am a new owner of an 2000 Blue RS coupe . Love it! Recently the Check engine light came on and stayed on. I read a post at Scoobymods.com about recalls on O2 sensors, and took it the dealer. They told me that it was changed on the car in May of 2001. Whats the expected life on these things?
They also want a minimum of 40 dollars to diagnose it. Kind of upsets me that I have had the car less than a month and they won't even look at it for free. I would understand parts and labor if it wasn't covered under warranty, but you would think they would try and help a new owner out. Now I am likely to take the car somewhere else for service. It seems to be running fine, and I haven't noticed a difference in the way it drives.
Anyone Near Olathe or Kansas City willing to help me pull a code? I saw the device at Autozone, but with tags and what not, will have to wait until I can afford it.
Also, the previous owner added a cat-back system that is labeled COBB on the muffler tip. I think this is a Stromung cat-back, but not sure. The catalytic converter(s) look stock, but not sure if the headers are stock or not. Both O2 sensors look to be in their original places. Thoughts?
Thanks
Kevin
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Definitely get the code pulled. If you can't find a place to do it free, just have the dealer do it. Make it clear to them though that by charging you for the service, they will NOT be authorized to perform any repairs of any kind.
Anyways, living in Kansas, perhaps you're lucky enough to live near Peaty. He can answer any question you may have.
As for the exhaust, it is indeed a Stomung single tip made specifically for Cobb. It's good stuff. If your cats and headers have heat shields, they are stock. If the headers are tarnished bronze color, and one side runs around the front of the oil pan, they are probably Borlas, which will cause a CEL. Some intakes can also contribute to a CEL.
Anyways, living in Kansas, perhaps you're lucky enough to live near Peaty. He can answer any question you may have.
As for the exhaust, it is indeed a Stomung single tip made specifically for Cobb. It's good stuff. If your cats and headers have heat shields, they are stock. If the headers are tarnished bronze color, and one side runs around the front of the oil pan, they are probably Borlas, which will cause a CEL. Some intakes can also contribute to a CEL.
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Thanks for the response and info.
I didn't notice any heat shields and the headers certainly come down from the engine and around the oil pan, and they are bronze colored.
I am about 20 minutes away from Lawrence, so maybe I can get in touch with Peaty.
Edit:
Since you tipped me off to the Borla headers did a search and found others on RS25.com are having code 420 - cat inefficiency. Apparently you can wrap your headers with header tape and that might help, or buy this 19.00 fix:
http://www.ilpperformance.com/celfix.php]ILP[/URL]
Thanks for your help. Got me started on a solution.
I didn't notice any heat shields and the headers certainly come down from the engine and around the oil pan, and they are bronze colored.
I am about 20 minutes away from Lawrence, so maybe I can get in touch with Peaty.
Edit:
Since you tipped me off to the Borla headers did a search and found others on RS25.com are having code 420 - cat inefficiency. Apparently you can wrap your headers with header tape and that might help, or buy this 19.00 fix:
http://www.ilpperformance.com/celfix.php]ILP[/URL]
Thanks for your help. Got me started on a solution.
Last edited by 00RSCoupe; Jun 16, 2003 at 07:28 PM.
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
As a matter of fact, I have the Borlas and a couple weeks ago I got the CEL. Haven't had it pulled yet, but I really doubt it's anything but Cat Inefficiency. I'm going to wrap them as soon as I get my midpipe in, and I'll post results if it clears the light. I believe the light is caused by the cat not reaching light-off temp due to the heat loss from the Borlas. (I'm not the first to say this obviously 
) I'd rather fix it right then run an end-around on my ECU.
) I'd rather fix it right then run an end-around on my ECU.
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Yep, I have about came to the same conclusion. I figure that the headers came with the car, so I can wrap them now and see how they do.
I would like to get them coated too, but not sure I can be without the car for the amount of time it would take to do. I can probably wrap the headers, let them dry, paint them and let paint dry, and put them back on in a single weekend.
I would like to get them coated too, but not sure I can be without the car for the amount of time it would take to do. I can probably wrap the headers, let them dry, paint them and let paint dry, and put them back on in a single weekend.
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