i jsut want a test pipe... is there anywhere i could buy one that could move the 02 sensor out a little so that it could get a reading without throwing a CEL

 

My brother has a 07 2.5i and is having the same problem finding a catback. We thought a wrx/sti catback might bolt right up so what we did was tried to install my stock sti exhaust on. The axleback bolted right up no problem, the other half that bolts to the cat was 5-6 inches to short. So you cut and weld in the diffrence so you can mate the pipe to reach the cat and your good to go. Something easy a exhaust shop can do and you have a wide veriety of catbacks to choose.

 

stromung makes a midpipe for the 2.5i now check it out on boxer4racing.com...it's 2.25"

 

ok well i already burnt out my clutch so when i replace it with the exedy oem, im gonna through in a light weight flywheel and i'll let you all know how that goes. As for exhaust, the best thing that i have found is an axle back, utilize the stock resonator pipe because it isn't resrictive, and get a cat- delete pipe. From my experiences Light weight crank pulleys do not do anything and all of the gains are psycological. As for headers, no previous year has the bungs for the 02 sensors and therefore are not compatible and also are totally different in proportion.

 

and no the second cat does not cause a CEL

 

When I had m exhaust custom fitted for my L, it only ran me about $80 at the exhaust shop. The exhaust was for a WRX, but they custom fitted and installed it for that price. Like the guys said before, don't run anything bigger than 2.5". I know everyone tells me that my 3" is too big, but all my upgrades were to accomodate a swap down the line.

edit: $80 USD to be precise.

 

if you don't think a crank pulley does anything then what do you think the flywheel will do for you? since both mods work on the same principle...

also removing the cat and getting a pipe that matches the headers would cause you to be going from a 2.5" header to a 2" exhaust...still having a larger 2.25" midpipe would free up some pressure (just enough) to allow the engine to flow better then if you had the stock setup with the cat. axlebacks alone do nothing but add sound since the restriction in the midpipe is still present...

 

You drive a 2.5i, and you've burnt out the clutch already?
Taking it to the drag strip lately? lol

 

how are those DF210 springs?

 

A ten lbs flywheel makes a huge difference in the older rs-es so i'm totally down. There isn't much weight to the stock crank pulley so getting one that is 4 lbs lighter doesn't make a huge difference but isn't the stock flywheel like 22 lbs? And my cat- delete pipe is 2.5 inch piping.

 

And the weird thing is i did one day of auto cross with absolutely no hard launches. I have no idea why its going already maybe its just cus i'm a teenager

 

then you should also go with a larger midpipe...that is unless the axleback is still 2" then there is no reason cause that would still generate a restriction...

also the difference between the crank and flywheel is that with a lighter flywheel you might find it a tad annoying when stuck in traffic...also a crank pulley is just a bit easier to replace then the flywheel because you don't have to remove the tranny at all...

as for your clutch problem you might not have worn it out...you might have just gotten it to hot. i know a few months back i did that and accidentally ended up burning the clutch for like 10sec (smelled to the high heavens) and for about a day it felt super loose...but then it went back to the "stock" feeling and everything seems fine (i have burned the clutch sooooo many times since i've had this car since i finished learning stick on it as well)

 

I have encountered that smell many times and then that burnt out clutch feeling. The difference now is that it never returned to the stock plushness. it no longer is smooth and progressive as it used to but, but instead it now has no grab until the last inch or so. Also, as i just discovered 5 minutes ago, if i whomp on it in first gear after the clutch should be fully engaged, it proceeds to slip resulting in a frown upon my face and the realization that the clutch is pretty much F*****!

Since i am going to have to remove my transmission, is there a shorter gear kit out there that i might be able to get my hands on? Shorter gears might be kinda helpful with getting this 1.5 ton vehicle moving quickly.

 

you're not gonna like the cost of new gears let alone the cost to open a tranny

 

yeah i looked into it today... high school salary probably won't allow me to do that...