I want to buy and aftermarket wastegate actuator for my car (07 wrx). Any suggestions on brands? What are some benefits from it?


http://www.maperformance.com/forge-a..._campaign=BROI

 

I love it how nobody in here ever wants to help me out. Thx!

 

Sorry man... I recently stopped using this site for the same reasons. Anyways, I haven't seen too many people use aftermarket wastegate accuators for internal wastegate applications with of course the exception of external wastegate setups. It sounds like it's just for bling and doesn't gain you any improved performance. Is there any particular reason you need this?? I would just say $165 could go towards to something of much better value and functionality.

 

hey bro thx for the reply. LOL. Anyway there is no particular reason I need it. I just heard from a few ppl that an acctuator with a better springload can hold the boost longer through higher rpms.

 

if you push your blow valve in it will...just save that money for some thing more usefull...

 

What do you mean by push my blow valve in?

 

pushing/smashing the blow off valve is designed to hold higher boost levels. But it has nothing to do with holding boost longer like an upgraded actuator might be able to provide. I would not spend that amount of money on an upgraded actuator. waste of money in my opinion. the wrx and sti turbos fall on their face not matter what you do.

 

I have a forge unit for sale.
Was never installed.

It helps with tuning your car for boost. If your tuner is on top of his game.. He will want to adjust that part to better your drivability and adjust boost levels for your car and turbo.

Nice thing if you upgrade to a bigger turbo down the road.. most people do.. You can swap the part onto the new turbo. Also they come with a stiffer spring.

 

Are you not interested in going External Waste Gate? The Grimm Speed Up-Pipe, Tial 38mm EWG, and a protune would be less than $1,000 bucks and yield some good results with supporting mods.

 

What kind of results should I expect, and is it safe?

 

It is a total waste to install only a wastegate actuator. The same money could get your turbocharger ported and polished, which will increase speed of spool up, and possibly let you have a little bit more boost, especially if the technician who does your turbo's work knows how to set it up. Go with a good tuner shop for this, and don't let them charge you over $150 for the work. It isn't worth more than that.

As for parts which increase turbo response, a new up-pipe is required if you are upgrading the turbo. You have a catalytic converter in that pipe that will destroy the turbo quickly if you run more boost than stock, or run it really hot for a long time. Next is to delete the silencer in the intake. You can do this for free, it will make your bypass valve sound meaner, while giving you a few horsepower and a faster spooling turbo.

Next is a turbo-back exhaust, possibly a short ram intake. After these mods are accomplished, research fuel delivery for the right injectors, and a Walbro 255lph pump. With all of these mods in place, it is your choice to run at track level power with approx 300hp possible target, or safely and for years at 240 or thereabouts in a street tune setup. I recommend the street setup on a stock intercooler and transmission. The OEM transmission on a WRX is good for about 250hp without banging on it. If you are a rough-clutcher, start in the transmission and work your way out to the engine, so nothing can break.

Also, do not forget suspension and brakes. If you have more power, handling it takes more serious hardware. Rotors and pads and a set of stainless lines can fix it, and a good set of springs and swaybars can give you amazing handling. Check all your options and think about the whole car. A totally stock Ford Taurus with Nitrous Oxide is fast for a few weeks, then it is a pile of steel in a wrecking yard. If it gets a suspension, brakes, a proper interior package, the right gauges, a proper engine build with pistons and rings, valve polish and reinforcement to the head, it can make massive power at the track for years. It is a matter of how long you want to keep the car.

Only a wastegate alone on a stock turbo and intercooler is a complete waste of money. Get a nice intake or something like that with that money. You will be a lot happier, and will be able to keep going without having to go back and fool with the "other mod that just got finished" which will never work perfectly without supporting modifications. It will make real power, give you a nice sound, and will look great. SPT, APex'i, Cobb, AEM (Short Ram) and a few others. Avoid foam filters like HKS and Perrin, apparently they are not as good at filtration of smaller particles. I use an Apex'i in a Weapon*R airbox, it's fantastic. Sounds like a jet fighter, and takes off like one. I am using a stage 1 tune on a stage 3 car, but it's really reliable, and I can flash up to about 320hp in a few minutes if I think there's a real good reason for it.

Ask more questions here... I am not 100% correct about everything all the time, but I will try to be helpful... before you buy stuff, ask your real professionals in your area how stupid my advice is... sometimes I am VERY wrong...

but I won't ignore ya.

 

I thought about this a little more. No. It isn't safe. You have to use either the OEM gate actuator OR get the one you are interested in matched by a shop with a spring weight.

The reason I am saying this is:

a stronger spring at a lighter setting = less adjustability
less adjustability than the OEM actuator means the OEM piece is better for the job
having the ability to withstand 50psi of pressure is irrelevant on a device which must be activated at 7psi.

changing this piece will negate the factory tune, since activation speed will be changed (even if it is only marginal change), and this could cause many engine issues detrimental in the years to come (scorched rings are the kind of problems discussed by people who experiment like this).

I don't think I can be more sure, or urge you more seriously to get an up-pipe without any catalytic convertor in it.

http://www.crucialracing.com/products/uppipe.php

If you go and do a turbo-swap or some boost enhancing mod of that type, and you didn't change this, you could end up a 100mph ball of fire. It isn't a joke. This is the one piece of the Subaru flat-4 that is flawed. It is good and green, makes the air a tad cleaner, but if you are gas-pedal-happy, and heat up your engine enough (like your turbo is glowing red - along with your downpipe), you could suck the catalytic converter's filtration comb directly into your turbine's impellar funnel, chewing up comb and spitting out both comb and turbine material together. It's expensive to fic if it happens, it could cause a fatal accident, and is the result of either really bad engineering by an aftermarket tuner, or a really thoughtless car owner. I don't mean that you deserve it if you blow up your car, but I'd feel bad if you were in it, and you could avoid all this with an up-pipe if you are really gung-ho about adding power to your car.

IOW: Buy an up-pipe and forget the stupid actuator. When you have a GT-3078 on a rotated mount, and you have bored out to 2.14 liters, get a new actuator.