What's with WRX's?
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Don't worry
Don't worry about the BOV etc..it isn't going to make you melt pistons. You are getting some great advice here on the GFB 50/50, it is a great piece and I don't think you would go wrong with it.
One thing you need to realize is this, when you make a mod, it does impact other areas that need to be addressed, piece mill doesn't work well with a finely tuned machine and that is what you have. Do some research and make mods that compliment each other...i.e. if you are pulling more air in, you need better means of exhausting it.
The CAI is a nice mod but not necessary from the get go, if you like the growl of it, get rid of that hideous air silencer. If you do it right and make sure you are pulling air from the fender, what more could you ask for? Careful though, you need to be sure you aren't sucking in engine compartment air....the air in there will run 150 degrees easy. NOT good!
One thing I did not notice anyone say is gauges. You NEED a nice set of gauges, EGT, Oil Temp and Boost are a must IMO.
Anyway, enjoy your Scooby, it is a kick a$$ car and the "rice boys" will always envy you when you blow their damn doors off!!
One thing you need to realize is this, when you make a mod, it does impact other areas that need to be addressed, piece mill doesn't work well with a finely tuned machine and that is what you have. Do some research and make mods that compliment each other...i.e. if you are pulling more air in, you need better means of exhausting it.
The CAI is a nice mod but not necessary from the get go, if you like the growl of it, get rid of that hideous air silencer. If you do it right and make sure you are pulling air from the fender, what more could you ask for? Careful though, you need to be sure you aren't sucking in engine compartment air....the air in there will run 150 degrees easy. NOT good!
One thing I did not notice anyone say is gauges. You NEED a nice set of gauges, EGT, Oil Temp and Boost are a must IMO.
Anyway, enjoy your Scooby, it is a kick a$$ car and the "rice boys" will always envy you when you blow their damn doors off!!
I <3 White Girls
iTrader: (38)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 26,491
From: Danville, CA
Car Info: E92 M3, E70, F32, E21
Originally posted by Silver arrow
If you are really looking for bang for the buck uppipe and downpipe are the way to go.
If you are really looking for bang for the buck uppipe and downpipe are the way to go.
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Haha, alright listen Imma give it to you straight, other than trying to build your confidence up in Subaru. This car isn't a peice of crap honda where you can get alot of bolt ons and still not be as fast as a WRX stock. You are dealing with a fine tuned, turbocharged motor, so the rules have now changed. Because of that force induction, not only do you get the perks have alot more power, but also the necessity to fine tune and be carefulw itht he car. It's a double edged sword. And I dont care what anyone tells you here in this forum or about any car, doing mods reduce the life of the car, including intake which cause the car to run lean and brun hotter, theoritacaaly causing more damage to piston rings than usual. If you serious about tuning this car, get an air/fuel ratio monitor, then start bolting on. Also remember, if you lean out with an intake, than richin the mix with a bov, that might not be so bad depending on ratio they are to eachother. Don't complain about the car, complain that you don't know how to mod it.
Re: sure?
Originally posted by burmis1
Well with my Stage one SPO, (Boost Controller (15.5lbs.) and Turboback Exhaust) BOV and Injen Intake, every thing is fine and my air/fuel guage says its good, and when i get on it- its a little rich so don't always beleave what everyone says.
Just Listen.
Just my two cents.
Bryanb
Well with my Stage one SPO, (Boost Controller (15.5lbs.) and Turboback Exhaust) BOV and Injen Intake, every thing is fine and my air/fuel guage says its good, and when i get on it- its a little rich so don't always beleave what everyone says.
Just Listen.
Just my two cents.
Bryanb
Re: 'Milk Jug' silenser removal
Originally posted by DwithBoost
Can anyone tell me where this silenser is located and how to remove it? Also, can I get some feedback on the GFB blow off valve as far as sound, volume, and installation?
Can anyone tell me where this silenser is located and how to remove it? Also, can I get some feedback on the GFB blow off valve as far as sound, volume, and installation?
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...=&threadid=113
Re: Autometer
Originally posted by burmis1
When Im cruzin the speed limit its stoich or even, but when i puch it it rises to the rich side, i never seen it go to the lean side, but it should be pretty accurate, I hope, hehe.
yep
When Im cruzin the speed limit its stoich or even, but when i puch it it rises to the rich side, i never seen it go to the lean side, but it should be pretty accurate, I hope, hehe.
yep
Heres how it works:
You drove a civic which has a naturally aspirated engine (b16)
You are now driving a turbocharged WRX
See the difference? Turbochaged and Naturally aspirated? Different? Two different words, two different approaches too making power, and two completely different bag of worms when it comes time to modify. I dont wanna bother to explain exactly why but essentially factory turbocharged car requires twice as many sensors, has twice as many variables being controlled by the ECU, and as such is twice as sensitive to any modification.
In the future research the things you put on you're car instead of piecing it together like a leggo toy and hoping the hodge-podge collection of mods work together.
If you ever want to have a really fast car, not another randomly modified wanna be rice-rocket, you have to set some goals for what you want to do. How much power do i want to make? Where will my powerband be? How can I get there? From there you can pick and choose parts that will work together (IE does this IM plenum size work with this cam profile?). If you come across something you dont understand you research it and figure it out. It's called building an engine package, because the only way to make real and reliable power is to pick parts to work together as a package. This is what sets apart the Super Street ricers from the guys that actually go out and build the cars in the magazines...
You drove a civic which has a naturally aspirated engine (b16)
You are now driving a turbocharged WRX
See the difference? Turbochaged and Naturally aspirated? Different? Two different words, two different approaches too making power, and two completely different bag of worms when it comes time to modify. I dont wanna bother to explain exactly why but essentially factory turbocharged car requires twice as many sensors, has twice as many variables being controlled by the ECU, and as such is twice as sensitive to any modification.
In the future research the things you put on you're car instead of piecing it together like a leggo toy and hoping the hodge-podge collection of mods work together.
If you ever want to have a really fast car, not another randomly modified wanna be rice-rocket, you have to set some goals for what you want to do. How much power do i want to make? Where will my powerband be? How can I get there? From there you can pick and choose parts that will work together (IE does this IM plenum size work with this cam profile?). If you come across something you dont understand you research it and figure it out. It's called building an engine package, because the only way to make real and reliable power is to pick parts to work together as a package. This is what sets apart the Super Street ricers from the guys that actually go out and build the cars in the magazines...
Last edited by Br1t1shguy; Apr 24, 2003 at 06:57 PM.
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I understand why the bov would cause problems but why would the intake cause me to run lean? What is the difference between the air box and my intake besides larger quantities of air? The mass airflow sensor will read more air and then put in more fuel to compensate. Also both the intake and the air box take air from out of the fender. What is the problem? Does anyone have solid proof (with gauges or such) that intakes make your WRX run lean?
keep your cai on the car and get a full turbo back exhaust. Having just a cai lets more air in than the stock exhaust can let back out, like the guy before me said, "work things together as a package." Apart they dont do much, but both together does alot.
I believe it has something to do with the turbulence created by the CAI, the MAF doesn't read correctly and may allow more air to pass un-messured. Someone correct if im wrong.
Originally posted by DwithBoost
I understand why the bov would cause problems but why would the intake cause me to run lean? What is the difference between the air box and my intake besides larger quantities of air? The mass airflow sensor will read more air and then put in more fuel to compensate. Also both the intake and the air box take air from out of the fender. What is the problem? Does anyone have solid proof (with gauges or such) that intakes make your WRX run lean?
I understand why the bov would cause problems but why would the intake cause me to run lean? What is the difference between the air box and my intake besides larger quantities of air? The mass airflow sensor will read more air and then put in more fuel to compensate. Also both the intake and the air box take air from out of the fender. What is the problem? Does anyone have solid proof (with gauges or such) that intakes make your WRX run lean?


