Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM) There is replacement for displacement, it is forced induction - OEM 2.0 liter turbo engines in the USDM WRX. 90-94 Legacy Turbo EJ22 turbo engines can also be discussed here.

Underhood whistling only when cold

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Old 11-17-2009, 08:05 AM
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Underhood whistling only when cold

I posted up a video to try to catch the sound that I'm hearing from underhood when the engine is cold. It seems to go away after the engine is up to operating temperature. If it is caused by the uppipe gasket, what is the best recommendation on replacing it - use a multi-layer metal & fiber gasket or just use a fiber gasket? Stack more than one gasket? I'm pretty sure I don't want to use any kind of RTV on an exhaust component, but let me know if I'm wrong.

Also, I have a question about how most people jack their car up. I have a set of ramps, as well as a floor jack & jack stands. To change tires or rotate the installed set, I had been jacking @ the factory jack points & then placing a jack stand under the frame channel at each corner, lifting only one corner at a time, and only working on one side at a time (I'm not implying I'm dumb enough to try to put jack stands under all 4 corners of the car while working on it). For oil changes & accessing the underside of the engine area, ramps are in order. My question is, does anyone have any tricks they use for jacking the car up, such as a point on the side of the car that is suitable for lifting the whole side rather than one corner at a time? I don't want to damage or dent the rocker panel (frame channel).

Thanks!

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Old 11-17-2009, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RALIWGN
I posted up a video to try to catch the sound that I'm hearing from underhood when the engine is cold. It seems to go away after the engine is up to operating temperature. If it is caused by the uppipe gasket, what is the best recommendation on replacing it - use a multi-layer metal & fiber gasket or just use a fiber gasket? Stack more than one gasket? I'm pretty sure I don't want to use any kind of RTV on an exhaust component, but let me know if I'm wrong.

Also, I have a question about how most people jack their car up. I have a set of ramps, as well as a floor jack & jack stands. To change tires or rotate the installed set, I had been jacking @ the factory jack points & then placing a jack stand under the frame channel at each corner, lifting only one corner at a time, and only working on one side at a time (I'm not implying I'm dumb enough to try to put jack stands under all 4 corners of the car while working on it). For oil changes & accessing the underside of the engine area, ramps are in order. My question is, does anyone have any tricks they use for jacking the car up, such as a point on the side of the car that is suitable for lifting the whole side rather than one corner at a time? I don't want to damage or dent the rocker panel (frame channel).

Thanks!
Up pipe leak.

It's not so much about the gasket material as the torque order. I had a leak for a while. Finally fixed it by loosening all the bolts from turbo to exhaust ports. Then tighten starting at UP, then moving towards the engine. This was with OEM gasket.

Factory torque spec is lighter than you might expect. 22 ft-lbs on UP to turbo and 26 for the rest of the manifold bolts. Don't crank them too hard.

As far as jack points, I use a floor jack on the front jack plate and rear diff. If you get coilovers, they're shorter and factory jack will lift one whole side (which is what I do if I'm only rotating tires).

Jack stands can go anywhere that's solid, I usually use the frame rails just south of the last subframe bolt. Seems more solid than the front jack point. I hacked up a silicone rubber mat I rescued from the dumpster at work, and I use that between the stands and the car to help distribute loads.
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