things to be ready for when installing an UP/DP
things to be ready for when installing an UP/DP
I a getting ready to instal my UP/DP this weekend and am looking for a few thing to look out for. ie. broken bolts, getting rid of the EGT on the UP. Special things people found or came up with to ease the install. All your help would be greatly welcomed. Thanks in advance.
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From: your friendly neighborhood hairpin
Car Info: '03 PSM Sedan
you'll definitely want to have a deep well O2 sensor socket, with a large opening for the wire that comes off the sensor.
double check that you have all the studs, nuts, gaskets etc. that you need, the last thing you want to discover is that you don't have a part while your car is in pieces.
you'll also want a CEL eliminator for the DP.
other than that, get ready for some busted knuckles
double check that you have all the studs, nuts, gaskets etc. that you need, the last thing you want to discover is that you don't have a part while your car is in pieces.
you'll also want a CEL eliminator for the DP.
other than that, get ready for some busted knuckles
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From: San Francisco / Riverside
Car Info: 2004 White GDB
make sure you install everything with a tight fit so there aren't any exhaust leaks and have a friend help you out. you might need him to hold the downpipe from the top as you get under the car and try to wiggle it out. and someone to get you food.
Get a buddy to help. Get a can of the keyboard cleaner (C02). Spray that on all the bolts when the exhaust is cool, works like WD40, makes the bolts easier to get off. Do the resistor mod to your up pipe while putting that thing in. Check for leaks as soon as the car is able to run. Get at least a 6 pack and good luck. It is a long job, but I am waitin to do it again to my STi. :banana: :banana:
Nick
Nick
Originally posted by SuboobaruWRSEX
Get a buddy to help. Get a can of the keyboard cleaner (C02). Spray that on all the bolts when the exhaust is cool, works like WD40, makes the bolts easier to get off. Do the resistor mod to your up pipe while putting that thing in. Check for leaks as soon as the car is able to run. Get at least a 6 pack and good luck. It is a long job, but I am waitin to do it again to my STi. :banana: :banana:
Nick
Get a buddy to help. Get a can of the keyboard cleaner (C02). Spray that on all the bolts when the exhaust is cool, works like WD40, makes the bolts easier to get off. Do the resistor mod to your up pipe while putting that thing in. Check for leaks as soon as the car is able to run. Get at least a 6 pack and good luck. It is a long job, but I am waitin to do it again to my STi. :banana: :banana:
Nick
but the up pipe in the STI does not have a cat, and is not needed to be replaced
I will be putting a header on, and go with an aftermarket up pipe. It would most likely be bigger diameter and lighter than stock. Found a Helix for $100 new. Knowing the subaru exhaust, aftermarket is better.
Nick
Nick
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Forget the o2 socket....cut a notch in the damn heatshield and be done with it.....or unplug the damn sensor and thread the damn wire through the damn hole...everybody fooking with the damn sensor when bypassing the damn thing is the way to go.
PB Blaster all the nuts/bolts the night before.
Have a small torch on hand for stubborn bolts/nuts.
Crows foot/feet(whatever) can make things a lot easier.
Sti's don't have UP cats...don't **** with the UP.
PB Blaster all the nuts/bolts the night before.
Have a small torch on hand for stubborn bolts/nuts.
Crows foot/feet(whatever) can make things a lot easier.
Sti's don't have UP cats...don't **** with the UP.
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From: The Green Room
Car Info: 02' Black Wgn
liquid wrench
I just did the install last week. t was actually really easy in my opinion. Things that help:
*Get the car up enough to be able to work comforatably under it.
*Have some back up 14 MM sockets
*When doing the up-pipe remember to remove the passenger side motor mount bolt and jack up the motor to get the bad boy out.
*Get the intercooler outa' there first
* use fender gaurds to protect the paint.
* one more thing. The heat-shield on the top of the exhaust minifold does not need to be removed to get that section of the manifold off.
If you take your time and stay oraganized you shouldn't have to many problems. It took me around 2.5 / 3 hours to do up / down and install the new exhaust
good luck.
*Get the car up enough to be able to work comforatably under it.
*Have some back up 14 MM sockets
*When doing the up-pipe remember to remove the passenger side motor mount bolt and jack up the motor to get the bad boy out.
*Get the intercooler outa' there first
* use fender gaurds to protect the paint.
* one more thing. The heat-shield on the top of the exhaust minifold does not need to be removed to get that section of the manifold off.
If you take your time and stay oraganized you shouldn't have to many problems. It took me around 2.5 / 3 hours to do up / down and install the new exhaust
good luck.
Things To have
OK. first I want to thank everyone for there input and or help. just a recap befor I start on Sat.
1. soak every bolt with Liquid Wrench or the like the night befor.
2. screw the sensor and use the resistor mod fix.
3. a second set of hands. Just to be safe I even have my girlfriend on hand for food or help.
4. screw the sensor and use the resistor mod fix.
5. use those jack stand high.
6. Beer.........lots of beer. (did anyone ever have three stooges Beer?...My Fav)
If anyone knows the stud size I would like to have a couple on hand if need be.
If I have missed anything let me know.....
Thanks again..
Jay
1. soak every bolt with Liquid Wrench or the like the night befor.
2. screw the sensor and use the resistor mod fix.
3. a second set of hands. Just to be safe I even have my girlfriend on hand for food or help.
4. screw the sensor and use the resistor mod fix.
5. use those jack stand high.
6. Beer.........lots of beer. (did anyone ever have three stooges Beer?...My Fav)
If anyone knows the stud size I would like to have a couple on hand if need be.
If I have missed anything let me know.....
Thanks again..
Jay


