This piece of exhaust brought this car to life, I mean literally it was like a world of difference between factory and this pipe. Overall fit and finish was first rate, really nice piece brackets and bolts matched up well all the way to the greddy catback. As far as sound goes it's really not much louder but more deeper than it was, then when you get on it you get welcomed by the wonderful sound of the turbo, It's awesome. If anyone that hasn't heard of the company Gruppe-s and is considering a catless DP I would highly recomend the Helix good quality and finish for the $

 

Did you install this yourself? I have the same dp but my turbo-dp bolts are seized on

 

I could not install my self for lack of tools required i took it to local muffler shop 30 bucks and done. My bolts were not seized up to bad course I only have bout 11,500 miles on it but a few were seized pretty good a shot of penetrating oil and bout 5 minutes or so of wait time got em off easy.

 

i tried liquid wrench, didnt do much. the problem bolts are the bolt+nut ones, not the stud+nut, so i have to use a wrench to hold the bolt while i use another wrench on the nut. there does not seem to be enough room there for a breaker bar, or any sort of long wrench. the best i could manage is a torque wrench on one side, and a socket on a small 1/4" driver on the other.

is there a better way to do this? thanks.

 

did you have to trim your turbo heatshield with the helix dp??

 

thanks for the tip prot, went to sears and got an 18" driver for the dp side and a 12" wrench for the turbo side, pushed and pulled as hard as i could and.. SNAP! the bolt broke in the middle, with the half the nut is attached to flying into the recesses of my engine compartment. for whatever reason the other top bolt was not seized, so that one was easy to get off. good thing the helix came w/ 2 new bolts + nuts.

 

There are two keys to getting siezed bolts off - lubrication and impulse.

First one is easy, but people are leaving out an important step. Soak the bolt with Liquid Wrench and then tap on the bolt with a wrench, hammer whatever for about 30 seconds. The tapping makes the metals resonate and wiggle the smallest amount, helping the liquid penetrate further.

Second, an impact wrench works well mainly because it provides just that, impact. There are two types of friction, static and kinetic. It is the static friction that is higher, so once you blast past that level you are home free. With a breaker bar, don't try and slowly push on the bar, give it a quick shove. Some people are against this, but if a bolt is really stuck I use a dead blow hammer on the end of the breaker bar.