Good filter and oil
#2
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Dude, just use the OEM subaru one. Works just fine. Just make sure you get the crush ring when you pick up the filter. The parts guy at the dealer will know what you are talking about. Its similar to a gasket to help seal it better.
#3
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Car Info: 2002 WRX Sedan
Since 2000 miles (now at 25,500) I have used Mobil 1 10W40 year round. I know there is some debate to using a synthetic early on, but I am sure that my engine was properly broken in by 2000 miles (rings had taken a seat). With an old carbureted car or one that was set up rich, I could see ring sealing being an issue, however, if you have applied a varying load on the motor (low rpm wide throttle openings, preferrably up a long hill and then coasted for awhile afterwards), then you have done the best thing you can do to bed the rings. I would use Mobil 1 or another premium synthetic due to the turbo.
And I use the factory Subaru filter from the dealer. If I was to 'upgrade', I'd use a Canton-Mecca cartridge type (very expensive though).
good luck!
And I use the factory Subaru filter from the dealer. If I was to 'upgrade', I'd use a Canton-Mecca cartridge type (very expensive though).
good luck!
#6
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i've used only subaru oem so far, but my oil has been quite dirty coming out... especially since i changed my oil well before the 3000 mile interval. for my next change, i have some fram 7000 mile oil filters, which by my logic should clean better if i only go to 3000 miles. we'll see what happens.
as for oil, i been using the normal 10w30, next change I will switch to synthetic 10w40 for higher heat resistance cuz i go out to the desert a lot. but for those who live in colder climates, you should run 5w30... and everyone else can go 10w30.
as for oil, i been using the normal 10w30, next change I will switch to synthetic 10w40 for higher heat resistance cuz i go out to the desert a lot. but for those who live in colder climates, you should run 5w30... and everyone else can go 10w30.
#7
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just use any good quality synthetic oil (Mobil 1, Motul, Redline etc.) and change both the oil and filter every 3k miles and you should be fine. i'd also stick to the OEM filter, and remember to change the crush washer each time you remove the oil drain bolt. the crush washer is simply a soft copper washer that the steel drain bolt with crush, and press to prevent oil leaks.
#8
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i don't know for sure about that i 've heard to change the crush washer every 3 oil changes and think about those guys who don't really change thier oil them self do u think the firestones or what ever really know about that. what do u guys think is the correct way to do it . just my .02 cents
#9
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i don't know exactly how much the OEM filter and crush washer cost for a WRX, but for other vehicles i've owned the filter was arround $12-20. most shops *gave* me a crush washer, and when i was charged for one, it was like $0.12 -- so cost isn't an issue.
part of the reason you need to change the crush washer every time you torque the engine oil drain bolt to spec, is that the washer compresses. it doesn't just uncompress when you take the bolt off, it stays compressed. that means to get a good seal, you wind up over-torquing the drain bolt. and yes, i realize i'm pretty **** about this....
part of the reason you need to change the crush washer every time you torque the engine oil drain bolt to spec, is that the washer compresses. it doesn't just uncompress when you take the bolt off, it stays compressed. that means to get a good seal, you wind up over-torquing the drain bolt. and yes, i realize i'm pretty **** about this....
#10
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OIl and filter
Thanks for the info. I really wanted an oil change today, and didn't think the dealership would do it with such short notice. Turns out I was wrong. Got me in and out in about an hour. [Irvine Subaru]. Whole tab:$22. I'm going with conventional oil till about 12K miles. Dealer mechanics say after 10K; private Suby shops say after 15K for switch to synthetic engine oil. Ran redline before and liked it. Thanks again for the info. sincerely, Collins
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