Clicking noise after rebuild
09-12-2011, 06:36 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Daly City, CA
Posts: 124
Car Info: 02 WRX
Clicking noise after rebuild
I just did a hybrid swap into my 02 wrx using my old heads and a new short block from subaru. Just fired it up last weekend and im getting a clicking noise that sounds like its coming from the center of the motor. It gets quieter as the car heats up. I just had a valve adjustment done so it probably shouldnt be my valves clicking. No check engine lights are on and i have no loss of power.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
09-12-2011, 07:29 PM
#2
Da Brit.
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,808
Car Info: http://tinyurl.com/3vo4362
Did you use a thicker gasket, cnc the heads to 2.5 spec, or use hybrid pistons?
Which oil are you using for break in?
Do you have a CEL?
Is the shortblock factory or did you build it up at all?
Any smoke out of the exhaust/oil spout?
Do you have tgv deletes?
Do you have an accessport or an obd cable to openecu some logs?
Which oil are you using for break in?
Do you have a CEL?
Is the shortblock factory or did you build it up at all?
Any smoke out of the exhaust/oil spout?
Do you have tgv deletes?
Do you have an accessport or an obd cable to openecu some logs?
09-12-2011, 08:47 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Daly City, CA
Posts: 124
Car Info: 02 WRX
Im using a Cosworth head gasket.
Im using 5W-30 full synthetic kendal oil. What oil should i be using for break in?
No check engine light
Short block is factory built.
There was smoke for the first few hours buts its cleared now.
Im not sure what a tgv delete is but i probably dont have any.
Ive got a scan tool i can use at work.
Im using 5W-30 full synthetic kendal oil. What oil should i be using for break in?
No check engine light
Short block is factory built.
There was smoke for the first few hours buts its cleared now.
Im not sure what a tgv delete is but i probably dont have any.
Ive got a scan tool i can use at work.
09-12-2011, 09:07 PM
#4
Da Brit.
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,808
Car Info: http://tinyurl.com/3vo4362
What are the specs on the cosworth gasket? It needs to be thicker than stock to accommodate for the mismatch. For break in you need to be running conventional motor oil. I'm hoping you haven't cooked the bearings. Does the ticking sound get faster as the rpm gets higher? It could just be piston slap while it warms up. Did you machine the heads ?
09-12-2011, 10:52 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Daly City, CA
Posts: 124
Car Info: 02 WRX
Im using 1.1 mm thick Cosworth head gaskets. The heads were sent to a machine shop to be cleaned and checked for cracks. The motors been worked on by my self, my lead tech, and some minor work by a Subaru tech.
The clicking gets faster with the rpms.
The clicking gets faster with the rpms.
09-13-2011, 10:26 AM
#8
Da Brit.
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,808
Car Info: http://tinyurl.com/3vo4362
1.1mm for gasket is appropriate yet not really my choice in doing a hybrid.
While the motor is apart its best to use hybrid pistons or even cnc the heads to 2.5 specs. You can use a stock gasket at that point.
my blind guess on clicking getting faster with rpm sounds an awful lot like rod knock due to spun rod bearing.
Did the motor get hot at all during the initial start/break in?
Did you burp it effectively?
Best way is to use a large funnel with a reservoir allowing the funnel to sit in the fill spout collecting and draining coolant when the thermo opens and closes. It also helps to squeeze the upper and lower hoses when the thermo opens to get the trapped air out.
Are you burning any oil?
The synth oil during break in could be the culprit for frying a bearing, but ill leave that for a mechanic to express their opinion.
What prep work was done on the heads to prepare for the new motor?
While the motor is apart its best to use hybrid pistons or even cnc the heads to 2.5 specs. You can use a stock gasket at that point.
my blind guess on clicking getting faster with rpm sounds an awful lot like rod knock due to spun rod bearing.
Did the motor get hot at all during the initial start/break in?
Did you burp it effectively?
Best way is to use a large funnel with a reservoir allowing the funnel to sit in the fill spout collecting and draining coolant when the thermo opens and closes. It also helps to squeeze the upper and lower hoses when the thermo opens to get the trapped air out.
Are you burning any oil?
The synth oil during break in could be the culprit for frying a bearing, but ill leave that for a mechanic to express their opinion.
What prep work was done on the heads to prepare for the new motor?
Last edited by johndabrit; 09-13-2011 at 10:32 AM.
09-13-2011, 11:21 AM
#9
Synthetic oil won't hurt the bearings.
What happened to your old motor? Assuming it spun a bearing, did you change the oil cooler with the new motor? If not, you likely contaminated your new motor on startup with bearing debris left over in the old oil cooler. If this is the case, you likely damaged the bearings in your new engine.
-- Ed
What happened to your old motor? Assuming it spun a bearing, did you change the oil cooler with the new motor? If not, you likely contaminated your new motor on startup with bearing debris left over in the old oil cooler. If this is the case, you likely damaged the bearings in your new engine.
-- Ed
09-13-2011, 06:22 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Daly City, CA
Posts: 124
Car Info: 02 WRX
I blew the turbo, lost oil, and disintegrated a chunk of one of my pistons.
I didnt change the oil cooler but i did clean it out as best i could and there were no metal shavings in my oil when i drained it recently.
The car hasn't really been driven since getting the motor running. Just drove it around the block. Other than that I've just let it run inside the shop to let it heat up. When i first started the motor the clicking was loud and then would quiet down after about 20 min. Every time that I've started it since then it gets quieter sooner. Its still loud when it starts cold though.
Dont know the part number. http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/...73&idproduct=1 I used these 1.1 mm
I didnt change the oil cooler but i did clean it out as best i could and there were no metal shavings in my oil when i drained it recently.
The car hasn't really been driven since getting the motor running. Just drove it around the block. Other than that I've just let it run inside the shop to let it heat up. When i first started the motor the clicking was loud and then would quiet down after about 20 min. Every time that I've started it since then it gets quieter sooner. Its still loud when it starts cold though.
Paul@dbtuned:Part number of the head gasket?
Last edited by Elsyd; 09-14-2011 at 12:34 AM.
09-13-2011, 10:07 PM
#11
iClub Silver Vendor
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Participating in some Anarchy!
Posts: 15,494
Car Info: 2005 LGT wagon
I blew the turbo, lost oil, and disintegrated a chunk of one of my pistons.
I did change the oil cleaner but i did clean it out as best i could and there were no metal shavings in my oil when i drained it recently.
The car hasn't really been driven since getting the motor running. Just drove it around the block. Other than that I've just let it run inside the shop to let it heat up. When i first started the motor the clicking was loud and then would quiet down after about 20 min. Every time that I've started it since then it gets quieter sooner. Its still loud when it starts cold though.
Dont know the part number. High Performance Head Gasket - Subaru EJ25 101mm Bore - Subaru Head Gaskets - Cosworth USA I used these 1.1 mm
I did change the oil cleaner but i did clean it out as best i could and there were no metal shavings in my oil when i drained it recently.
The car hasn't really been driven since getting the motor running. Just drove it around the block. Other than that I've just let it run inside the shop to let it heat up. When i first started the motor the clicking was loud and then would quiet down after about 20 min. Every time that I've started it since then it gets quieter sooner. Its still loud when it starts cold though.
Dont know the part number. High Performance Head Gasket - Subaru EJ25 101mm Bore - Subaru Head Gaskets - Cosworth USA I used these 1.1 mm
Please clarify the "oil cleaner"; did you replace the oil cooler? What turbo is on the engine right now? Where did it come from?
09-14-2011, 12:30 AM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Daly City, CA
Posts: 124
Car Info: 02 WRX
Im sorry i meant cooler not cleaner. The turbo is a wrx turbo i bought used off of a member of iclub. The clicking doesnt sound like its any where near the turbo.
Im havent been building this block for power, im just trying to get the car back on the road. I figure i can always change parts out later.
Im havent been building this block for power, im just trying to get the car back on the road. I figure i can always change parts out later.
04-11-2017, 12:29 AM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Kenya
Posts: 2
Car Info: Subaru forester ,Sg9,2006
Ej2.5breaking
Can i use 20w50
While the motor is apart its best to use hybrid pistons or even cnc the heads to 2.5 specs. You can use a stock gasket at that point.
my blind guess on clicking getting faster with rpm sounds an awful lot like rod knock due to spun rod bearing.
Did the motor get hot at all during the initial start/break in?
Did you burp it effectively?
Best way is to use a large funnel with a reservoir allowing the funnel to sit in the fill spout collecting and draining coolant when the thermo opens and closes. It also helps to squeeze the upper and lower hoses when the thermo opens to get the trapped air out.
Are you burning any oil?
The synth oil during break in could be the culprit for frying a bearing, but ill leave that for a mechanic to express their opinion.
What prep work was done on the heads to prepare for the new motor?[/QUOTE]
breaking
While the motor is apart its best to use hybrid pistons or even cnc the heads to 2.5 specs. You can use a stock gasket at that point.
my blind guess on clicking getting faster with rpm sounds an awful lot like rod knock due to spun rod bearing.
Did the motor get hot at all during the initial start/break in?
Did you burp it effectively?
Best way is to use a large funnel with a reservoir allowing the funnel to sit in the fill spout collecting and draining coolant when the thermo opens and closes. It also helps to squeeze the upper and lower hoses when the thermo opens to get the trapped air out.
Are you burning any oil?
The synth oil during break in could be the culprit for frying a bearing, but ill leave that for a mechanic to express their opinion.
What prep work was done on the heads to prepare for the new motor?[/QUOTE]
breaking
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
