Okay, before someone calls me a newb of some sort, just to clarify, I don't know much about car service, but I do more so about sportbikes, so there's a bit of a difference.

Today, I just received my Greddy RS BOV today and I self installed (which I must say I am proud of myself after much effort 1hr 45 minutes). My problem is that I knew once I installed it, there would be some sort of irregularities due to the pressure difference, but the engine idle speed fluctuates like crazy (my normal engine idle is about 500-650maybe even 700) but now its idling at 500 then fluctuates high then so low below 500 that it almost seems an engine stall is imminent, then it shoots back up to normal idle and continues to fluctuate.

For example when I pressed the clutch in, downshifted 3rd to 2nd and came to a stop, the idle dropped extremely low and then shot back up to normal. And just now on the way home, the car backfired at least 3 times. I was told by a friend that it might be the throttle plate that's dirty and another friend said that I will need a cobb accessport to reflash it, but since those are so damn expensive, I figured I could use a tactrix cable to reflash it.

What do you guys think?

Anybody have a cobb accessport or a tactrix cable I could use? If you don't feel comfortable with me borrowing it (fellow subaru owner's honesty), then could we meet up and you help me reflash? I am willing to pay you some in return for helping me.

 

cobb accessport has to be married to work from what i know.

remove bov, problem fixed

get an intake, you'll hear the psshhhhh no problem.

 

Its your bov that's causing the problems. BOV's do not work well with our cars, unless you have a blow by setup or crazy amount of power. It'll cause the car to run rich and idle like crap and bog or even stall. Remove the bov and reinstall the stock one, your car should return back to normal afterward.

P.S. Did you even try to adjust the bov with the screw on top of the greddy bov? Its a hex I believe.

 

Yeah before i headed out to the WingStop meet I tried to adjust it a bit and it helped somewhat; the idle isn't as bad but I didn't want to turn it all the way on the hard setting kuz it says that it could mess it up. I can't remember why exactly though

 

All this just for the sound? Like what the guy said above, go back to stock. I don't see why the spring inside the BOV would get messed up if you turn it all the way to the stiffest setting. AP won't help you... even if it was married to your car, their generic maps they provide won't be sufficient... as they are just for basic bolt on and "staged" type of modifications.

And as the other guy above said, if you really want that sound, get a CAI... i have one on my car and it does make a sound some might find desirable, but its not nearly as annoying as a BOV. GL.

 

Like everyone else said, you should dump the BOV. Subarus seem to have a universally bad response to these things unless like previous posters mentioned you have crazy amounts of power or a blowby setup.

However, if you want to hear that turbo spoiling there are a few better solutions. You can do a silencer delete which will cost you absolutely nothing, or an aftermarket intake for something like $100-$150. Our cars have a good stock intake system that is good for up to 300hp so personally I would go for the cheap route. Especially since you have to tune your car for an intake and that will cost even more.

However, there are good gains to be had on even a stock subie with just a reflash. I have a tactrix cable and software so if you wanna come down to the south bay (Sunnyvale) we can flash it for you and get you a little more power. Pm me if you're interested.

 

Greddy does make a recirc kit for that BOV, again would be pointless because you still have the stocker to use which everyone on this forum will recomend.

 

Sell it and get a APS CAI, Cobb short ram or an SPT Intake. You'll get that rush of air sound and blow off similar to a turbo xs or so...well at least thats what it sounds like to me. Another way to increase turbo spool noise and louder recirculating noise is getting an APS Turbo Inlet Pipe, but it requires the removal of your intake manifold. I would only recommend doing this if your planning to also install injectors and do TGV deletes. Otherwise just for turbo inlet pipe, it would not be worth it. Good Luck on your quest for the whoosh!

 

Ill throw onw in there just for the sakes of my post count. If you look back into all the BOV threads which should be a sticky in the noob section. Dont get a BOV valve it has been proven by enough people that it doesnt work. Dont feel bad. I came over from the honda community and threw so much crap at my car and it ran like poop. The CAI works great and will give you the same noise. Remember anything you do will need a tune. GL and sorry about the BOV.

This is why you see so many of them for sale really cheap on craigslist and ebay used.

 

as stated above only a fully recirc or a 50/50 BOV can be used on our cars
you need air recirculated into the intake tube for it to idle properly otherwise it idles too rich and runs like crap.
also you have to buy your own accessport if you want a tuned map, they are one car use for each because its married to your ECU once you put in a tuned map.
you can hear the stock BOV if you have a open filter intake, i recommend the cobb because it works really well and i have one myself.
just to help you out, do your research before adding mods to a subaru its not like a honda, can not just bolt stuff on and have it work. engine mods without the proper tuning can cost you a motor. these forums are full of good info majority of people here will not steer you wrong with advice.