Ultra boob utec tuning Q
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Hey All,
I got my UTEC installed it (was a breeze) and started running the stock
mode and running the logger to get a feel for all the data that I could see
before runing any tuning runs (either on the dyno or on the street. I have
some basic questions (which were not satisfactorily answered by the manual
or by searches on NASIOC, clubwrx or i-club). Hoping someone here will be
able to help me out.
My basic understanding on how one should go about WRX cardio tuning:
1) Retard the ignition timing by three or 4 notches to take care of 91
octane and any boost spike issues which might cause lean outs
2) incrase the fuel throught just a little bit (maybe 0.3 or 0.4 points) to
be extra safe. Both the ignition and the fuel maps will be fine tuned after
the boost map has been bolted into place
3) Now get the boost map in good shape. First by setting the ABC
approximately and then fine tuning stuff by dinking around with the boost
map to reach the right boost levels at various RPMs and TPS values. Here is
where I am a little ignaramus
a) I have TXS Stg2 with an autospeed flex uppipe. Planning to run open
loop boost control and stock tuning parameters. What are the right boost
values for this? what is the general guideline to vary boost across a load
range (at const RPM) or across a RPM range (for a const load)? I figure the
"guidelines" comes to one from tuning experience? The manual recommends some
boost values for a stage 2. Are these the values I should strive to acheive?
And the only way to figure the actual boost acheived is by using an external
gauge right? Because the logger only shows me the boost solenoid duty cycle.
4) Now once the boost map is in the right place. I could start tuning the
fuel map to get rid of any rich or lean spots. Correct? Here again, I wonder
what the right AFR values are for the various RPM/Load points. Any help will
be appreciated
5) Now I dink with the ignition timing. And I go through multiple iterations
of tweaking the ignition map and the fuel map alternatively to reach the
level of timing aggressiveness that I need on the ignition map and to remove
any lean and rich spots on the fuel map.
Is this general strategy good? or am I just a dumb bloke when it comes to
tuning. My logic is, even if I get someone else to do this for me, I want to
be able to understand what's going on, and appreciate the beauty of it
all.....
Any help/suggestions/comments will be greatly appreciated
Thanks all for reading this through
!
Duckride
I got my UTEC installed it (was a breeze) and started running the stock
mode and running the logger to get a feel for all the data that I could see
before runing any tuning runs (either on the dyno or on the street. I have
some basic questions (which were not satisfactorily answered by the manual
or by searches on NASIOC, clubwrx or i-club). Hoping someone here will be
able to help me out.
My basic understanding on how one should go about WRX cardio tuning:
1) Retard the ignition timing by three or 4 notches to take care of 91
octane and any boost spike issues which might cause lean outs
2) incrase the fuel throught just a little bit (maybe 0.3 or 0.4 points) to
be extra safe. Both the ignition and the fuel maps will be fine tuned after
the boost map has been bolted into place
3) Now get the boost map in good shape. First by setting the ABC
approximately and then fine tuning stuff by dinking around with the boost
map to reach the right boost levels at various RPMs and TPS values. Here is
where I am a little ignaramus

a) I have TXS Stg2 with an autospeed flex uppipe. Planning to run open
loop boost control and stock tuning parameters. What are the right boost
values for this? what is the general guideline to vary boost across a load
range (at const RPM) or across a RPM range (for a const load)? I figure the
"guidelines" comes to one from tuning experience? The manual recommends some
boost values for a stage 2. Are these the values I should strive to acheive?
And the only way to figure the actual boost acheived is by using an external
gauge right? Because the logger only shows me the boost solenoid duty cycle.
4) Now once the boost map is in the right place. I could start tuning the
fuel map to get rid of any rich or lean spots. Correct? Here again, I wonder
what the right AFR values are for the various RPM/Load points. Any help will
be appreciated
5) Now I dink with the ignition timing. And I go through multiple iterations
of tweaking the ignition map and the fuel map alternatively to reach the
level of timing aggressiveness that I need on the ignition map and to remove
any lean and rich spots on the fuel map.
Is this general strategy good? or am I just a dumb bloke when it comes to
tuning. My logic is, even if I get someone else to do this for me, I want to
be able to understand what's going on, and appreciate the beauty of it
all.....
Any help/suggestions/comments will be greatly appreciated
Thanks all for reading this through
!Duckride
Guest
Posts: n/a
How does the car feel with UTEC installed? I ordered it on the 1st and am just wondering what to expect from it. Are the gains mostly felt in full throttle situations or is their a noticeable difference in normal driving as well? Just looking at the dyno graphs it would seem that anything over 3500rpm is going to be a VERY noticeable increase...I hope I'm right.
-Eric
-Eric
Guest
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I just tried a very conservative stage 1 map (on 91 octane) and the difference is def noticeable. I had a MBC earlier set at 15.8 PSI and compared to that the ride now is very smooth, the boost comes on smooth, no hesitation and the power seems to hold. But just to get a feel I removed the MBC a week before I got my UTEC and the difference between stock and UTEC stg1 is very apparent.
Hopefully I will put on my stealthback this weekend and then will run the stg2 maps
duckride
Hopefully I will put on my stealthback this weekend and then will run the stg2 maps
duckride
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