Manual Boost Controller? Do I need more fuel too?
05-17-2005, 10:00 AM
#1
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Manual Boost Controller? Do I need more fuel too?
Ok, after my origional post I dumped the idea of any sort of BOV. I still plan on installing the Hallman Boost Controller, good for 2-5lbs, aditional boost. How much additional boost can the WRX take before it starts running lean?
Thanks
Thanks
05-17-2005, 10:03 AM
#2
Don't do it.
The stock ECU will have a fit if you try to run more boost then its programmed to allow. A reflashed ECU or a standalone ECU unit is pretty much the only way to safely increase boost.
The stock ECU will have a fit if you try to run more boost then its programmed to allow. A reflashed ECU or a standalone ECU unit is pretty much the only way to safely increase boost.
05-17-2005, 11:13 AM
#3
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What is the most cost effective reflash? How much $? Is there anyplace local in Colorado?
Further, what good is the manual boost controller, why are they even offered? I've seen them work in the DSM before. Could it be used in conjunction with a reflash?
Further, what good is the manual boost controller, why are they even offered? I've seen them work in the DSM before. Could it be used in conjunction with a reflash?
05-17-2005, 11:26 AM
#4
They are offered because they used to work on older, less sophisticated ECUs like older DSMs. A lot of old DSM people are used to using them, so they will naturally be offered. You can buy anything for your car, whether its good or bad.
You can use a MBC (though, I'd recomend an Electronic Boost Controller instead) in conjunction with a reflash if you really want to. What you'd need to do is set the ECU parameters to go as high as you want boost to go (say 18psi or so), and use the MBC or EBC to lower or raise the boost as desired.
That way, the ECU won't freak out when you start slowing bumping the boost up to your 18psi max. But, personally, I don't see why you wouldn't just want the boost up at max all the time, since the ECU (if tuned correctly) will run safely. Running an MBC or EBC just seems like a waste, IMO, though a friend of mine wants to do that with his STi.
I don't know of any tuners in the Colorado area (though its very possible there are some), but I'd look into getting a Cobb AccessPort. That should run you somewhere between ~$600 IIRC. An ECUtek reflash, depending on your car, can run anywhere from $650 - $750.
You can use a MBC (though, I'd recomend an Electronic Boost Controller instead) in conjunction with a reflash if you really want to. What you'd need to do is set the ECU parameters to go as high as you want boost to go (say 18psi or so), and use the MBC or EBC to lower or raise the boost as desired.
That way, the ECU won't freak out when you start slowing bumping the boost up to your 18psi max. But, personally, I don't see why you wouldn't just want the boost up at max all the time, since the ECU (if tuned correctly) will run safely. Running an MBC or EBC just seems like a waste, IMO, though a friend of mine wants to do that with his STi.
I don't know of any tuners in the Colorado area (though its very possible there are some), but I'd look into getting a Cobb AccessPort. That should run you somewhere between ~$600 IIRC. An ECUtek reflash, depending on your car, can run anywhere from $650 - $750.
05-17-2005, 11:28 AM
#5
from Scott@S-S in another thread. Where I got most of my information about running a boost controller with a reflash.
Originally Posted by Scott@S-S
The boost controller will allow you to set what levels you want of boost.
Before the WRX came out, the best way to raise the boost was by using either a manual bleeder valve (not always reliable) or going with the Boost Controller.
The WRX never liked having the boost raised above the stock boost map and would have a fit, and actually put you down HP rather then make more. The WRX is much better off going with the reflash and letting the stock ECU control the boost, and just raise the limit from the reflash.
Now with some applications (and even the STi since we do not have the option to switch boost maps like the WRX can) you can overrun the stock boost solenoid and not be able to build as much boost as you would like. Even with the use of the Perrin solenoid, some large turbo applications will need the assistance of a larger and even faster solenoid like the ones found with the Electronic Boost Controllers.
There are many other options as well, as with the HKS setup, you can have different boost levels setup for low and high boost, and even a Scramble Boost to increase your boost for a set duration (usually its set for 20 seconds or so)
On my eclipse, I had the scramble boost set for 24 psi for 20 seconds. After that, the EBC would revert back to the low or high boost setting, whatever you had set before.
The HKS is a learning controller, which means it will adapt itself to the boost curve and constantly be trying to increase the boost the fastest possible way without going over your preset limit. The motors the EBCs use for the valves are so fast now a days, it can make sever adjustments per second to bleed off just enough pressure to keep the running full psi all the way to redline, as long as the turbo can handle it.
Unless the WRX is running some monster turbo and really needs the use of the EBC, there is no need to use one. I will be running one in the STi at some point so that I can have a low and high boost setting. The only trick will be to reflash to the desired maximum level of boost you would like, so that way the ECU will not freak out if you go over, since the control of the turbo will no longer be from the ECU, and if it tries to limit boost because something is going wrong (it wants to see 15 psi, but the EBC is set for 20) and cut boost, but nothing happens, that’s when it will start pulling timing and go into limp mode almost because the ECU thinks there is something very wrong with the car.
As for setup with the stock system, its a replacement for the boost solenoid and system, so it would be replaced with the one that comes with the EBC
oops.. didnt mean it to be that long
Before the WRX came out, the best way to raise the boost was by using either a manual bleeder valve (not always reliable) or going with the Boost Controller.
The WRX never liked having the boost raised above the stock boost map and would have a fit, and actually put you down HP rather then make more. The WRX is much better off going with the reflash and letting the stock ECU control the boost, and just raise the limit from the reflash.
Now with some applications (and even the STi since we do not have the option to switch boost maps like the WRX can) you can overrun the stock boost solenoid and not be able to build as much boost as you would like. Even with the use of the Perrin solenoid, some large turbo applications will need the assistance of a larger and even faster solenoid like the ones found with the Electronic Boost Controllers.
There are many other options as well, as with the HKS setup, you can have different boost levels setup for low and high boost, and even a Scramble Boost to increase your boost for a set duration (usually its set for 20 seconds or so)
On my eclipse, I had the scramble boost set for 24 psi for 20 seconds. After that, the EBC would revert back to the low or high boost setting, whatever you had set before.
The HKS is a learning controller, which means it will adapt itself to the boost curve and constantly be trying to increase the boost the fastest possible way without going over your preset limit. The motors the EBCs use for the valves are so fast now a days, it can make sever adjustments per second to bleed off just enough pressure to keep the running full psi all the way to redline, as long as the turbo can handle it.
Unless the WRX is running some monster turbo and really needs the use of the EBC, there is no need to use one. I will be running one in the STi at some point so that I can have a low and high boost setting. The only trick will be to reflash to the desired maximum level of boost you would like, so that way the ECU will not freak out if you go over, since the control of the turbo will no longer be from the ECU, and if it tries to limit boost because something is going wrong (it wants to see 15 psi, but the EBC is set for 20) and cut boost, but nothing happens, that’s when it will start pulling timing and go into limp mode almost because the ECU thinks there is something very wrong with the car.
As for setup with the stock system, its a replacement for the boost solenoid and system, so it would be replaced with the one that comes with the EBC
oops.. didnt mean it to be that long
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