3 misfires out of 4 cylinders!
Guest
Posts: n/a
3 misfires out of 4 cylinders!
I had a bad WRX day last night.
Here is some background:
About 2 weeks ago I installed a new gt-spec uppipe and Denso plugs. The car ran great for a week, then everything went to crap. I got a cel (P0102 - Mass air flow sensor circuit low input). I went to my dealer and got the MAF replaced, the code was still there.
Driving home I started to get a misfire. I went to another dealer close to home and I had 3 misfires! cyliner 1-3. They put in new stock plugs last night. The misfire was gone after the drove it, but the P0102 code was still there. I drove it home because the lot closed and I got my misfire back again!!! I had an s-afc in. I removed it last night, but still no luck.
Now what do I do? the plugs are brand new. Should I have them check the coil packs? I did the resistor mod, could it be a bad resistor? I just taped the connections. Should I crimp the wires?
Does an uppipe cause misfires?
This SUCKS!!!!!!! Any help would be great. If not, I am selling my car
Here is some background:
About 2 weeks ago I installed a new gt-spec uppipe and Denso plugs. The car ran great for a week, then everything went to crap. I got a cel (P0102 - Mass air flow sensor circuit low input). I went to my dealer and got the MAF replaced, the code was still there.
Driving home I started to get a misfire. I went to another dealer close to home and I had 3 misfires! cyliner 1-3. They put in new stock plugs last night. The misfire was gone after the drove it, but the P0102 code was still there. I drove it home because the lot closed and I got my misfire back again!!! I had an s-afc in. I removed it last night, but still no luck.
Now what do I do? the plugs are brand new. Should I have them check the coil packs? I did the resistor mod, could it be a bad resistor? I just taped the connections. Should I crimp the wires?
Does an uppipe cause misfires?
This SUCKS!!!!!!! Any help would be great. If not, I am selling my car
My rex is throwing the same P0102 code as yours is. My Greddy E-manage is the reason for it. It modifies the MAF sensor signal to adjust for injector size and fuel, just as your S-AFC does (and Im sure you know that). My mechanic and Sube dealer told me not to worry about it at all, and so far I havent had any perfomance problems. As for your misfires, I dont think they would be from your uppipe, unless its causing a lean condition in conjunction with your S-AFC. I have an uppipe as well and it hasn't caused any misfires. Try taking out your S-AFC & resistor and reset your ECU (if you haven't done so already). Dont give up and sell your car...these problems can be fixed. Good luck!
Admin v2.0
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,965
From: Alameda, CA, USA
Car Info: 02 Black Legacy GT
I had numerous reports of people getting major misfire codes after installing lightened flywheels. That happens due to the increased noise that the car's engine/tranny make after that.
It is very possible that your uppipe making your car loud trips the knock sensor making it think you got misfire.
It is very possible that your uppipe making your car loud trips the knock sensor making it think you got misfire.
VIP Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,518
From: Plymouth, MN
Car Info: 94 T-Leg Sedan and a 00 M5
Yes. If the ECU "hears" a misfire for an extended period of time, then it puts the car into limp mode. Just like if you got a real misfire. This resistor mod... you are talking about an EGT resistor, right? The 2.2k ohm 1/4 watt resistor, I'm assuming. Check out the picture below. When you installed the resistor, did you form it like this? 
If not, try it. You may not be making a circuit in the EGT sensor cable. Just a thought, though.
If not, try it. You may not be making a circuit in the EGT sensor cable. Just a thought, though.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Interesting.
I used the 2.2 1/2 resistor. Should I switch to the 1/4th? I also didn't form it like that. I just put the end of the EGT and the end of the resistor and crimped them. I noticed that the EGT wire isn't very flexible, how did you make it stay together with the loop?
Thanks in advance!
I used the 2.2 1/2 resistor. Should I switch to the 1/4th? I also didn't form it like that. I just put the end of the EGT and the end of the resistor and crimped them. I noticed that the EGT wire isn't very flexible, how did you make it stay together with the loop?
Thanks in advance!
VIP Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,518
From: Plymouth, MN
Car Info: 94 T-Leg Sedan and a 00 M5
PM'd you, but to answer here:
go ahead and switch to the 1/4 watt (they're cheap!). Also, the wire is pretty rigid, so when you bend the loop into it, it makes it a bit springy. This help it stay in the sensor cable slot. Works great for me.
go ahead and switch to the 1/4 watt (they're cheap!). Also, the wire is pretty rigid, so when you bend the loop into it, it makes it a bit springy. This help it stay in the sensor cable slot. Works great for me.
hey guys,
I have the same problem, I own a 2002 wrex and had a bad history with it. Its a long story so please bear with me. When I purchased the car from an action with minimal damage and the world was roses and peaches, afterall I did own a wrex. Then as I got it and fixed the damage I noticed a blinking cell. I thought nothing of it untill I read that it means to turn the car off or else. I said "oh crap!!" because I already drove it for a couple hundred of miles. When one purchases a car off the action lot and it is considered salvadged the dealer wants nothnig to do with you so i had to do everything the hard way. I started with an electrician. He figured out that I had 8 codes 4 of which are for the o2 sensors and the rest are misfires and a camshaft position center code. I was curious because I had put the car back to stock exhaust uppipe and all in order to pass smog and I shouldnt of had those o2 codes. THen the electrician climbed under the dash and messed with some type of plugs that the odb2 reader hooks up to, the cel stopped blinking. He told me that there were different plugs for different devices that read the cars system or something like that and he left the wrong one on. So he reset the cel and told me to go on my marry way and call him if the cel comes back. So I drive home feeling all warm and fuzzy inside untill the cel appears. So instead of calling the guy I go to autozone and rent the obd2 tester and read the misfire codes and the camshaft position code. I start to worry. I give the electrician a call and he tells me that the camshaft position code would go on if the timing was replaced and put on a tooth off. With no delay I take the car to the mechanic and he cheks my timing only to find out that it is perfect. Later on that day I go to the electrician and he checks the codes again. To my surprise I get another code, p0107 if i recall correctly, the car is running lean. So he goes and unhooks the MAF sensor and the car is running perfect no misfires or anything. He tells me that my MAF sensor is bad and buy a new one. I call the dealer only to find out that it costs $279. I go on ebay and find one for $90 and buy it. I get the new sensor and put it and to my surprisethe car is misfiring like a mo fo, the engine is shaking out of control. I disconnect the sesor and everything is fine. I get tired of going back and forth between mechanics and electricians and giving them money for nothing so I go to the guys that deal with it all the time. I arrive in the morning and tell them my story and problem, within minutes of looking over my car they tell me that the car had a piggy back chip that was removed and the wiring to the computer was jacked up so they go on and fix it and after I pay them $227 they tell me that I should pass smog and everything should be fine. The car did run good but felt for some reason a little shaky, I thought nothing of it. The next morning after I start the car I get the dreaded cel. I looked confused because I thought the problem was fixed. I grab my handy obd2 tester only to find out that cylinders 1,3, and 4 wre misfiring. I have a crancshaft pulley on and nothing else. I think that it would be the culprit in all of this but only time and the guys in the subaru place to tell me. I would grately appreciate any help. Im thinking of reflashing the ecu to make it compatible with the mods that Im putting on it (uppipe, downtime, and a 3" exhaust) to get more juice out of it and hopefully fix the misfires.
I have the same problem, I own a 2002 wrex and had a bad history with it. Its a long story so please bear with me. When I purchased the car from an action with minimal damage and the world was roses and peaches, afterall I did own a wrex. Then as I got it and fixed the damage I noticed a blinking cell. I thought nothing of it untill I read that it means to turn the car off or else. I said "oh crap!!" because I already drove it for a couple hundred of miles. When one purchases a car off the action lot and it is considered salvadged the dealer wants nothnig to do with you so i had to do everything the hard way. I started with an electrician. He figured out that I had 8 codes 4 of which are for the o2 sensors and the rest are misfires and a camshaft position center code. I was curious because I had put the car back to stock exhaust uppipe and all in order to pass smog and I shouldnt of had those o2 codes. THen the electrician climbed under the dash and messed with some type of plugs that the odb2 reader hooks up to, the cel stopped blinking. He told me that there were different plugs for different devices that read the cars system or something like that and he left the wrong one on. So he reset the cel and told me to go on my marry way and call him if the cel comes back. So I drive home feeling all warm and fuzzy inside untill the cel appears. So instead of calling the guy I go to autozone and rent the obd2 tester and read the misfire codes and the camshaft position code. I start to worry. I give the electrician a call and he tells me that the camshaft position code would go on if the timing was replaced and put on a tooth off. With no delay I take the car to the mechanic and he cheks my timing only to find out that it is perfect. Later on that day I go to the electrician and he checks the codes again. To my surprise I get another code, p0107 if i recall correctly, the car is running lean. So he goes and unhooks the MAF sensor and the car is running perfect no misfires or anything. He tells me that my MAF sensor is bad and buy a new one. I call the dealer only to find out that it costs $279. I go on ebay and find one for $90 and buy it. I get the new sensor and put it and to my surprisethe car is misfiring like a mo fo, the engine is shaking out of control. I disconnect the sesor and everything is fine. I get tired of going back and forth between mechanics and electricians and giving them money for nothing so I go to the guys that deal with it all the time. I arrive in the morning and tell them my story and problem, within minutes of looking over my car they tell me that the car had a piggy back chip that was removed and the wiring to the computer was jacked up so they go on and fix it and after I pay them $227 they tell me that I should pass smog and everything should be fine. The car did run good but felt for some reason a little shaky, I thought nothing of it. The next morning after I start the car I get the dreaded cel. I looked confused because I thought the problem was fixed. I grab my handy obd2 tester only to find out that cylinders 1,3, and 4 wre misfiring. I have a crancshaft pulley on and nothing else. I think that it would be the culprit in all of this but only time and the guys in the subaru place to tell me. I would grately appreciate any help. Im thinking of reflashing the ecu to make it compatible with the mods that Im putting on it (uppipe, downtime, and a 3" exhaust) to get more juice out of it and hopefully fix the misfires.
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 723
From: bay area
Car Info: 03 Legacy GT Wagon
Originally Posted by drifter04
hey guys,
I have the same problem, I own a 2002 wrex and had a bad history with it. Its a long story so please bear with me. When I purchased the car from an action with minimal damage and the world was roses and peaches, afterall I did own a wrex. Then as I got it and fixed the damage I noticed a blinking cell. I thought nothing of it untill I read that it means to turn the car off or else. I said "oh crap!!" because I already drove it for a couple hundred of miles. When one purchases a car off the action lot and it is considered salvadged the dealer wants nothnig to do with you so i had to do everything the hard way. I started with an electrician. He figured out that I had 8 codes 4 of which are for the o2 sensors and the rest are misfires and a camshaft position center code. I was curious because I had put the car back to stock exhaust uppipe and all in order to pass smog and I shouldnt of had those o2 codes. THen the electrician climbed under the dash and messed with some type of plugs that the odb2 reader hooks up to, the cel stopped blinking. He told me that there were different plugs for different devices that read the cars system or something like that and he left the wrong one on. So he reset the cel and told me to go on my marry way and call him if the cel comes back. So I drive home feeling all warm and fuzzy inside untill the cel appears. So instead of calling the guy I go to autozone and rent the obd2 tester and read the misfire codes and the camshaft position code. I start to worry. I give the electrician a call and he tells me that the camshaft position code would go on if the timing was replaced and put on a tooth off. With no delay I take the car to the mechanic and he cheks my timing only to find out that it is perfect. Later on that day I go to the electrician and he checks the codes again. To my surprise I get another code, p0107 if i recall correctly, the car is running lean. So he goes and unhooks the MAF sensor and the car is running perfect no misfires or anything. He tells me that my MAF sensor is bad and buy a new one. I call the dealer only to find out that it costs $279. I go on ebay and find one for $90 and buy it. I get the new sensor and put it and to my surprisethe car is misfiring like a mo fo, the engine is shaking out of control. I disconnect the sesor and everything is fine. I get tired of going back and forth between mechanics and electricians and giving them money for nothing so I go to the guys that deal with it all the time. I arrive in the morning and tell them my story and problem, within minutes of looking over my car they tell me that the car had a piggy back chip that was removed and the wiring to the computer was jacked up so they go on and fix it and after I pay them $227 they tell me that I should pass smog and everything should be fine. The car did run good but felt for some reason a little shaky, I thought nothing of it. The next morning after I start the car I get the dreaded cel. I looked confused because I thought the problem was fixed. I grab my handy obd2 tester only to find out that cylinders 1,3, and 4 wre misfiring. I have a crancshaft pulley on and nothing else. I think that it would be the culprit in all of this but only time and the guys in the subaru place to tell me. I would grately appreciate any help. Im thinking of reflashing the ecu to make it compatible with the mods that Im putting on it (uppipe, downtime, and a 3" exhaust) to get more juice out of it and hopefully fix the misfires.
I have the same problem, I own a 2002 wrex and had a bad history with it. Its a long story so please bear with me. When I purchased the car from an action with minimal damage and the world was roses and peaches, afterall I did own a wrex. Then as I got it and fixed the damage I noticed a blinking cell. I thought nothing of it untill I read that it means to turn the car off or else. I said "oh crap!!" because I already drove it for a couple hundred of miles. When one purchases a car off the action lot and it is considered salvadged the dealer wants nothnig to do with you so i had to do everything the hard way. I started with an electrician. He figured out that I had 8 codes 4 of which are for the o2 sensors and the rest are misfires and a camshaft position center code. I was curious because I had put the car back to stock exhaust uppipe and all in order to pass smog and I shouldnt of had those o2 codes. THen the electrician climbed under the dash and messed with some type of plugs that the odb2 reader hooks up to, the cel stopped blinking. He told me that there were different plugs for different devices that read the cars system or something like that and he left the wrong one on. So he reset the cel and told me to go on my marry way and call him if the cel comes back. So I drive home feeling all warm and fuzzy inside untill the cel appears. So instead of calling the guy I go to autozone and rent the obd2 tester and read the misfire codes and the camshaft position code. I start to worry. I give the electrician a call and he tells me that the camshaft position code would go on if the timing was replaced and put on a tooth off. With no delay I take the car to the mechanic and he cheks my timing only to find out that it is perfect. Later on that day I go to the electrician and he checks the codes again. To my surprise I get another code, p0107 if i recall correctly, the car is running lean. So he goes and unhooks the MAF sensor and the car is running perfect no misfires or anything. He tells me that my MAF sensor is bad and buy a new one. I call the dealer only to find out that it costs $279. I go on ebay and find one for $90 and buy it. I get the new sensor and put it and to my surprisethe car is misfiring like a mo fo, the engine is shaking out of control. I disconnect the sesor and everything is fine. I get tired of going back and forth between mechanics and electricians and giving them money for nothing so I go to the guys that deal with it all the time. I arrive in the morning and tell them my story and problem, within minutes of looking over my car they tell me that the car had a piggy back chip that was removed and the wiring to the computer was jacked up so they go on and fix it and after I pay them $227 they tell me that I should pass smog and everything should be fine. The car did run good but felt for some reason a little shaky, I thought nothing of it. The next morning after I start the car I get the dreaded cel. I looked confused because I thought the problem was fixed. I grab my handy obd2 tester only to find out that cylinders 1,3, and 4 wre misfiring. I have a crancshaft pulley on and nothing else. I think that it would be the culprit in all of this but only time and the guys in the subaru place to tell me. I would grately appreciate any help. Im thinking of reflashing the ecu to make it compatible with the mods that Im putting on it (uppipe, downtime, and a 3" exhaust) to get more juice out of it and hopefully fix the misfires.
Nice first post!!!
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,447
From: Just when I find the key to success, someone goes and changes the locks.
Car Info: "Why Warthog sir?"
Originally Posted by drifter04
hey guys,
I have the same problem, I own a 2002 wrex and had a bad history with it. Its a long story so please bear with me. When I purchased the car from an action with minimal damage and the world was roses and peaches, afterall I did own a wrex. Then as I got it and fixed the damage I noticed a blinking cell. I thought nothing of it untill I read that it means to turn the car off or else. I said "oh crap!!" because I already drove it for a couple hundred of miles. When one purchases a car off the action lot and it is considered salvadged the dealer wants nothnig to do with you so i had to do everything the hard way. I started with an electrician. He figured out that I had 8 codes 4 of which are for the o2 sensors and the rest are misfires and a camshaft position center code. I was curious because I had put the car back to stock exhaust uppipe and all in order to pass smog and I shouldnt of had those o2 codes. THen the electrician climbed under the dash and messed with some type of plugs that the odb2 reader hooks up to, the cel stopped blinking. He told me that there were different plugs for different devices that read the cars system or something like that and he left the wrong one on. So he reset the cel and told me to go on my marry way and call him if the cel comes back. So I drive home feeling all warm and fuzzy inside untill the cel appears. So instead of calling the guy I go to autozone and rent the obd2 tester and read the misfire codes and the camshaft position code. I start to worry. I give the electrician a call and he tells me that the camshaft position code would go on if the timing was replaced and put on a tooth off. With no delay I take the car to the mechanic and he cheks my timing only to find out that it is perfect. Later on that day I go to the electrician and he checks the codes again. To my surprise I get another code, p0107 if i recall correctly, the car is running lean. So he goes and unhooks the MAF sensor and the car is running perfect no misfires or anything. He tells me that my MAF sensor is bad and buy a new one. I call the dealer only to find out that it costs $279. I go on ebay and find one for $90 and buy it. I get the new sensor and put it and to my surprisethe car is misfiring like a mo fo, the engine is shaking out of control. I disconnect the sesor and everything is fine. I get tired of going back and forth between mechanics and electricians and giving them money for nothing so I go to the guys that deal with it all the time. I arrive in the morning and tell them my story and problem, within minutes of looking over my car they tell me that the car had a piggy back chip that was removed and the wiring to the computer was jacked up so they go on and fix it and after I pay them $227 they tell me that I should pass smog and everything should be fine. The car did run good but felt for some reason a little shaky, I thought nothing of it. The next morning after I start the car I get the dreaded cel. I looked confused because I thought the problem was fixed. I grab my handy obd2 tester only to find out that cylinders 1,3, and 4 wre misfiring. I have a crancshaft pulley on and nothing else. I think that it would be the culprit in all of this but only time and the guys in the subaru place to tell me. I would grately appreciate any help. Im thinking of reflashing the ecu to make it compatible with the mods that Im putting on it (uppipe, downtime, and a 3" exhaust) to get more juice out of it and hopefully fix the misfires.
I have the same problem, I own a 2002 wrex and had a bad history with it. Its a long story so please bear with me. When I purchased the car from an action with minimal damage and the world was roses and peaches, afterall I did own a wrex. Then as I got it and fixed the damage I noticed a blinking cell. I thought nothing of it untill I read that it means to turn the car off or else. I said "oh crap!!" because I already drove it for a couple hundred of miles. When one purchases a car off the action lot and it is considered salvadged the dealer wants nothnig to do with you so i had to do everything the hard way. I started with an electrician. He figured out that I had 8 codes 4 of which are for the o2 sensors and the rest are misfires and a camshaft position center code. I was curious because I had put the car back to stock exhaust uppipe and all in order to pass smog and I shouldnt of had those o2 codes. THen the electrician climbed under the dash and messed with some type of plugs that the odb2 reader hooks up to, the cel stopped blinking. He told me that there were different plugs for different devices that read the cars system or something like that and he left the wrong one on. So he reset the cel and told me to go on my marry way and call him if the cel comes back. So I drive home feeling all warm and fuzzy inside untill the cel appears. So instead of calling the guy I go to autozone and rent the obd2 tester and read the misfire codes and the camshaft position code. I start to worry. I give the electrician a call and he tells me that the camshaft position code would go on if the timing was replaced and put on a tooth off. With no delay I take the car to the mechanic and he cheks my timing only to find out that it is perfect. Later on that day I go to the electrician and he checks the codes again. To my surprise I get another code, p0107 if i recall correctly, the car is running lean. So he goes and unhooks the MAF sensor and the car is running perfect no misfires or anything. He tells me that my MAF sensor is bad and buy a new one. I call the dealer only to find out that it costs $279. I go on ebay and find one for $90 and buy it. I get the new sensor and put it and to my surprisethe car is misfiring like a mo fo, the engine is shaking out of control. I disconnect the sesor and everything is fine. I get tired of going back and forth between mechanics and electricians and giving them money for nothing so I go to the guys that deal with it all the time. I arrive in the morning and tell them my story and problem, within minutes of looking over my car they tell me that the car had a piggy back chip that was removed and the wiring to the computer was jacked up so they go on and fix it and after I pay them $227 they tell me that I should pass smog and everything should be fine. The car did run good but felt for some reason a little shaky, I thought nothing of it. The next morning after I start the car I get the dreaded cel. I looked confused because I thought the problem was fixed. I grab my handy obd2 tester only to find out that cylinders 1,3, and 4 wre misfiring. I have a crancshaft pulley on and nothing else. I think that it would be the culprit in all of this but only time and the guys in the subaru place to tell me. I would grately appreciate any help. Im thinking of reflashing the ecu to make it compatible with the mods that Im putting on it (uppipe, downtime, and a 3" exhaust) to get more juice out of it and hopefully fix the misfires.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
axelthrasher
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
4
Oct 2, 2006 11:47 AM
WRXWagon203
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
0
Aug 24, 2003 06:21 AM
Jsunn
Engine/Power - EJ20T (pre-2006 WRX and JDM)
1
Jun 24, 2003 09:00 PM




