Drivetrain Encompasses driveline components such as the torque converter, clutch, transmission, shifter, front and center differentials, driveshaft, rear differential, and axles.

Hydraulic woes

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Old 04-12-2004, 07:19 PM
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Car Info: 98 2.5RS Black Diamond Pearl
Hydraulic woes

Hi Folks

This may be a really dumb question, but I've run out of ideas.

The car is a MY98 RS and I've been having intermittent problems with both the clutch and the steering (it seems like ages, now). In a nutshell, the clutch pedal goes from soft to hard to push and the steering goes from light to heavy. In both cases it's like the hydraulics are not doing their job.

So I'm wondering if there's any connection between the two hydraulic systems? Is there any way that a problem with one could influence the other?

Thanks, and, if it is a really dumb question, please excuse my ignorance!
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Old 04-10-2005, 08:35 PM
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i know with the clutch due to the fact of the placement of the slave cylinder when engine temps get warm the hydraulics for the clutch get softer.reverse order when cold.not sure if there is any type of fix for it or if higher temp brake fluid could be used for clutch master.
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Old 04-11-2005, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Jdog81
i know with the clutch due to the fact of the placement of the slave cylinder when engine temps get warm the hydraulics for the clutch get softer.reverse order when cold.not sure if there is any type of fix for it or if higher temp brake fluid could be used for clutch master.
Phew! I thought this thread had died ages ago! Anyhow, thanks for the reply Jdog81. I have tried high temp brake fluid (Motul 600 racing fluid), no change. Here's a complete description of the clutch symptoms and a list of things I've done to try and alleviate the situation:


The feel of the clutch pedal varies from having a fairly strong return to having a very weak return (almost no resistance to being pushed down). It's as if I’ve suddenly got a different, and “softer” clutch. When there's little resistance in the pedal, the clutch doesn't engage with much "authority" (sometimes it actually feels as if it’s slipping slightly) and the car does not respond (“pull”) the way it does when the clutch is working properly. The engagement point changes as well – when the clutch is working well, the engagement point is crisp, well defined and near the floor; when it’s not, that point is soft, relatively ill defined and near the top of the peddle stroke.

Additionally, when the engagement is crisp and near the floor, the 1st to 2nd gearshift (in particular) is smooth and quick. When the engagement is soft and near the top of the pedal stroke, the 1st to 2nd shift is very notchy, as if the clutch is not fully disengaged.

The problem seems more severe in hot weather, but also when I'm using the clutch a lot (stop and go - around town), regardless of the outside temperature.

Once the pedal went to the floor and stayed there until I lifted it back up with my foot.


So far:

1. The complete clutch, flywheel assembly has been replaced 5 times!

2. The master cylinder and slave cylinder have been replaced 3 times.

3. Obviously the hydraulic fluid was replaced each time (1.and 2.) and, in addition, I've flushed the system twice. The last time I replaced the fluid with Motul 600 high temperature racing fluid.

4. The slave cylinder/fork assembly has been lubricated (once).

5. The flexible hose part of the hydraulic line has been replaced with an upgraded braided stainless steel/Teflon one.

6. The throwout bearing and the shaft it rides along has been replaced with aftermarket parts from (the now defunct) PDM-USA.


If you have any further thoughts I'd sure like to hear them! Thanks again.
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Old 04-11-2005, 11:54 AM
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well i would say currently if your pedal is not sticking to the floor you do not have a major issue as fa as component failure.if it was sticking to the floor i would say you have air in the line or slave malf.as far as the hard to soft my car does the same thing and i have an 03 rs with 25k miles. i live in phoenix and when it is super hot i feel the difference in the clutch feel vs the cooler weather.have no driveability concerns with it but it does seem to affect the performance of the shift. also i am equipped with the upgraded clutch and flywheel setup done at 8k due to the clutch shrudder issue, and i have to say as far as performance the old style was better. it grabs harder and is more of a stiffer clutch pedal,i immediately missed the old version after replacement but it did fix the shrudder lol. i would almost wonder if the car would benefit from a type of heat shield around the slave cylinder to help deflect heat. i also feel that the factory clutch and flywheel could be causing some of the problem from heat transfer as well but i would never put aftermarket on those components personally. especially since it is a key tranfer point to the trans.would love to know where you got your braided stainless steal line because i have thought of changing that on my car for a little bit better feel.talk to ya.
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Old 04-11-2005, 12:51 PM
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would love to know where you got your braided stainless steal line because i have thought of changing that on my car for a little bit better feel

I got the stainless line from Z1 Auto. I had a quick look just now and I only see one for a Legacy, but I'm sure if you contacted them...........

http://www.z1auto.com/
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