Dead clutch pedal
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Now that the head gaskets are fixed, I can worry about this clutch issue that has bugged me for some time now. What happens is, after rowing through the gears for a while, or using the clutch pedal to kill the cruise control several times, the pedal becomes dead for about half the throw and catches really close to the floor. I bled quite a bit of fluid through right before discovering the head gasket problem, and it seemed to be fine. Now that I have the car back though, it is doing it again. It doesn't seem to be losing fluid, at least I SEE no indications of fluid loss.
My question is, is there a secret problem with the clutch hydraulics (like the head gasket issue) or have I just worn the thing out after 84K miles?
My question is, is there a secret problem with the clutch hydraulics (like the head gasket issue) or have I just worn the thing out after 84K miles?
Don't think you've worn it out so much as the fluid is tired! I had the same problem in the mountains and was told the clutch MC and it's slave are just cooking due to their location(over the exhaust). I just replace the fluid periodically and have had no more problems with it. Every time it starts to get dark in color I get out the old "Turkey Baster", suck it dry and replace the fluid. I'd be interested to hear of other's experience with this as well.
Glenn O
Glenn O
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Posts: 1,644
From: Lawrence, Kansas
Car Info: 19' Impreza Sport Manual / 99 Miata / 13' OB
I had the same problem after a heavy track day. As stated the location of the slave cylinder is pretty poor IMHO. It gets very hot. My pedal came back after everything cooled down. Bleeding the clutch fluid helped me. Some have had to change the slave cylinder because the return spring got too weak, that in combination with the heat usually is the problem.
FYI - Bleeding the clutch is not the same as bleeding the brakes. have a look here:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...=&threadid=491
I'd try just bleeding the clutch first. If that dosen't help then next thing to do is change out the slave cylinder.
Peaty
FYI - Bleeding the clutch is not the same as bleeding the brakes. have a look here:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...=&threadid=491
I'd try just bleeding the clutch first. If that dosen't help then next thing to do is change out the slave cylinder.
Peaty
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Cool, I'll bleed it again and then consider the slave cylinder replacement. If I remember correctly, it was the cheaper of the two cylinders too.
(edit) I just read the description of the proper way to bleed the clutch. I guess I just got lucky that mine still worked after the last time I bled it! Don't ask, I'm too embarrassed. I'll do it this way this time.
(edit) I just read the description of the proper way to bleed the clutch. I guess I just got lucky that mine still worked after the last time I bled it! Don't ask, I'm too embarrassed. I'll do it this way this time.
Last edited by dimlight65; Apr 24, 2003 at 07:05 AM.
I've heard that replacing the clutch line (rubber) with a SS Line is the "true fix"... anyone do this?
And for those of you that replaced either the SC or MC, did you notice the problem returning?
And for those of you that replaced either the SC or MC, did you notice the problem returning?
Opinions on Clutch trouble
Time to resurrect this one more time! Just had another experience with it pulling into Reno after an uneventful 120 mile trip from home. Clutch still works/disengages, but only comes up half way, like the return spring is sprung. Left the car parked for a few hours, long enough to see my nephew get hitched, and seemed much better? Think I'll do the slave bleed tomorrow, and replace the fluid. Anyone(Peaty?) think the slave is shot? Car has nearly 120K-miles, 98 GT Wagon. Is there a re-build kit, like for the PS Pump?
I know things often come in 3's, and after my recent flat-bed trip home with broken shift-rod(120miles at $6/mile + Repair cost), and nearly cooking my 'teg motor when a small coolant hose rotted out one week later ($90 worth of hoses and 3 hours under the hood), I'm feeling like playing it safe!!
Glenn O
I know things often come in 3's, and after my recent flat-bed trip home with broken shift-rod(120miles at $6/mile + Repair cost), and nearly cooking my 'teg motor when a small coolant hose rotted out one week later ($90 worth of hoses and 3 hours under the hood), I'm feeling like playing it safe!!
Glenn O
Thanks! Just finished bleed and fluid change. Guess I'll keep an eye on it for future problems. Might consider going with a stainless line as well? Rebuild kit? Think I'll check with my friendly neighborhood dealer parts guys on that. Thanks again Peaty!
Glenn O
Glenn O
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Most likey the problem is in the master, heat traveles up. After master replacement my heat soaked low pedal when away. I'm sure the rubber cup in the master was sticking towards the bottom and not returning. I also rebuilt the slave, kits are avalible from Subaru.
Registered User
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,644
From: Lawrence, Kansas
Car Info: 19' Impreza Sport Manual / 99 Miata / 13' OB
While I agree heat travels up when you are talking about convection, I don't agree that it will travel up to get the Master clutch cylinder that hot. It's seperated by a good air gap. OTOH, the slave cylinder is attached to the motor and will heat via conduction. Also, it's not in a spot to get cooled off by air readly.
Thanks guys. Think I'll look into rebuilding the slave before even thinking about the MC. I can see where it would get very warm, and stay that way, being of the heavy construction/materials it is, and located on the motor. You guys are a real service to the community.
Glenn O
Glenn O
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,644
From: Lawrence, Kansas
Car Info: 19' Impreza Sport Manual / 99 Miata / 13' OB
There is a new TSB on this, have a look here:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...&threadid=2041
Someone priced out the parts, I don't have it handy but it was not all that expensive for a new slave. It may be easier to just replace it.
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...&threadid=2041
Someone priced out the parts, I don't have it handy but it was not all that expensive for a new slave. It may be easier to just replace it.
Peaty to the rescue again!! I passed on the TSB info to my new mechanic, and he's ordering up the parts at right around $100 SRP. $71 for the Slave, $22 for the hose and about $1.60 for the new hose gaskets. The clutch isn't acting up right this second, but after dropping over $2K into it for Head Gaskets, T-Belt and tensioner, T/O Bearing and all new hoses a hundred bucks seems reasonable to eliminate this annoying and potentially dangerous problem. Thanks again Peaty!!
Glenn O
Glenn O


