Seafoam bad for turbo'd engines?
10-18-2006, 10:40 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by meilers
Holy crap you people are touchy. Someone post a picture of the engine bay with a red arrow done in MS Paint to the line that I want. I can see quite a few to choose from, and I'd like to use one that someone else has used with known success.
I'm using the Subaru Top Engine Cleaner, not the Seafoam. The instructions say to use the entire bottle, 1/3 at a time. However, there is a catch -- the entire bottle is made of OPAQUE BLACK PLASTIC, leaving me no way of measuring whether I have actually sucked up 1/3 of the contents! I'm going to decant it into a clear container with markings in liquid oz. and work from there. The Subaru brand cleaner does NOT say to add it to either the gas or the crankcase.
I'm using the Subaru Top Engine Cleaner, not the Seafoam. The instructions say to use the entire bottle, 1/3 at a time. However, there is a catch -- the entire bottle is made of OPAQUE BLACK PLASTIC, leaving me no way of measuring whether I have actually sucked up 1/3 of the contents! I'm going to decant it into a clear container with markings in liquid oz. and work from there. The Subaru brand cleaner does NOT say to add it to either the gas or the crankcase.
10-22-2006, 09:05 PM
#33
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I did this friday through the BPV hose (1/3 of the can) but I havent gotten a chance to listen for valve tick (was annoying the hell out of me at times) and I havent tested out the performance gains or gas mileage yet. What I know it did do, was show me where my exhaust leak is 
10-22-2006, 11:20 PM
#36
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Even though my car has a helix on it...I can't say they have the best product fitment out there...
Between the notorious gap in the PD/CBE flanges to the V3 Downpipes rattling off the tranny mounts....
they may be a good company, but damn....you think they would get things to fit right.
Between the notorious gap in the PD/CBE flanges to the V3 Downpipes rattling off the tranny mounts....
they may be a good company, but damn....you think they would get things to fit right.
10-22-2006, 11:33 PM
#37
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well if I end up getting that tranny, I'll probably also add a few more mods such as SPT intake and switch to the crucial downpipe (and maybe their flat black CBE too)
10-24-2006, 04:10 AM
#38
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Origami posted by MBasile
now I have to figure out what "LOF" means
now I have to figure out what "LOF" means
--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
10-24-2006, 04:36 AM
#39
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>I've personally never used either one, but when using Seafoam you use 1/3 of the bottle through the brake booster.
The brake booster line only feeds one cylinder, you really should put it in the TB or find a better hose. I found the line that goes to the recirc valve is more in the center but still not the best one.
The brake booster line only feeds one cylinder, you really should put it in the TB or find a better hose. I found the line that goes to the recirc valve is more in the center but still not the best one.
10-24-2006, 11:13 AM
#40
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Originally Posted by Peaty
>I've personally never used either one, but when using Seafoam you use 1/3 of the bottle through the brake booster.
The brake booster line only feeds one cylinder, you really should put it in the TB or find a better hose. I found the line that goes to the recirc valve is more in the center but still not the best one.
The brake booster line only feeds one cylinder, you really should put it in the TB or find a better hose. I found the line that goes to the recirc valve is more in the center but still not the best one.
10-24-2006, 12:38 PM
#42
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>TB=throttle body?
Yes, sorry.
>How could you get to that and be able to actually start the car and keep it running?
Unplug MAF, turn key on and off to put the car in limp home mode, then it will start and run. Same procedure shown in how to clean the Idle Speed Control Valve, just use SeaFoam:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3909
Yes, sorry.
>How could you get to that and be able to actually start the car and keep it running?
Unplug MAF, turn key on and off to put the car in limp home mode, then it will start and run. Same procedure shown in how to clean the Idle Speed Control Valve, just use SeaFoam:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3909
11-01-2006, 08:46 PM
#43
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Back on this again. I talked to a shop owner; he used to work at the GM skunkworks back in the 80s on really exotic stuff like turbo diesel street cars with alchohol injection as stock (obviously, never made it to market!) and he's spent years looking at the internals of engines. He said that the brake booster was the WORST possible vac line to use for any kind of engine cleaner, as this only feeds one cylinder. he also thought the throttle body was not ideal, as the cleaner doesn't actually benefit from being atomized (it works better as a liquid, not a spray). His suggestion was the return line from the BOV, and he's done it that way on dozens of Subaru engines (turbo ones only, of course). For non-turbo engines, Subaru actually makes a shop tool (known as a Vacuum Wedge) that fits on to an emissions-control vacuum return line on the intake side of the engine.
So I think I'll get my courage up and do this on the weekend; I'll take some snaps and post a how-to on Scoobymods, pending on whether the car survives or not. I used the Subaru-branded injector cleaner a few weeks back and it really did improve the idle and pep of the car, so I've got positive feelings about the top engine cleaner. Now, I need to find a place I can do this without pissing off the neighbors with giant clouds of black and grey smoke...
So I think I'll get my courage up and do this on the weekend; I'll take some snaps and post a how-to on Scoobymods, pending on whether the car survives or not. I used the Subaru-branded injector cleaner a few weeks back and it really did improve the idle and pep of the car, so I've got positive feelings about the top engine cleaner. Now, I need to find a place I can do this without pissing off the neighbors with giant clouds of black and grey smoke...
11-01-2006, 09:55 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by meilers
Back on this again. I talked to a shop owner; he used to work at the GM skunkworks back in the 80s on really exotic stuff like turbo diesel street cars with alchohol injection as stock (obviously, never made it to market!) and he's spent years looking at the internals of engines. He said that the brake booster was the WORST possible vac line to use for any kind of engine cleaner, as this only feeds one cylinder. he also thought the throttle body was not ideal, as the cleaner doesn't actually benefit from being atomized (it works better as a liquid, not a spray). His suggestion was the return line from the BOV, and he's done it that way on dozens of Subaru engines (turbo ones only, of course). For non-turbo engines, Subaru actually makes a shop tool (known as a Vacuum Wedge) that fits on to an emissions-control vacuum return line on the intake side of the engine.
So I think I'll get my courage up and do this on the weekend; I'll take some snaps and post a how-to on Scoobymods, pending on whether the car survives or not. I used the Subaru-branded injector cleaner a few weeks back and it really did improve the idle and pep of the car, so I've got positive feelings about the top engine cleaner. Now, I need to find a place I can do this without pissing off the neighbors with giant clouds of black and grey smoke...
So I think I'll get my courage up and do this on the weekend; I'll take some snaps and post a how-to on Scoobymods, pending on whether the car survives or not. I used the Subaru-branded injector cleaner a few weeks back and it really did improve the idle and pep of the car, so I've got positive feelings about the top engine cleaner. Now, I need to find a place I can do this without pissing off the neighbors with giant clouds of black and grey smoke...
[/sarcasm]
thanks for that info, thats the line I used (the one off the BOV line)