Heedz

iTrader: (51)

Ray you were able to get your 4000's cut? where did you do it?! My fronts need it.

Gancherov

iTrader: (13)

You're forgetting the part where Napa/vatozone blanks are $30, and the DBA's are $300. Are you planning on wearing through them in one non-stop run? or can you stop every 6-12 months to swap a rotor? I mean, it's 12 bolts and maybe 30 minutes to change both front rotors on a subie.

Going back to the part where he's daily driving and autocrossing, he doesn't make enough heat in the rotor to warp it in the first place. Hence no need for superior heat venting from the rotor. Not to mention holding a little heat it is necessary to get your brakes up to operating temp during a short course event like an autoX. (850-1000*F is the DBA operating temp, can you get them up there and keep them there in a 45sec-2min course?)

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

Not all of them are. Mines like 130+ for the front set

OneManArmy

iTrader: (7)

I called around until I found a place to do it. I had it done by a place in watsonville. It's really just a matter of them having the tip to do it or not.

The regular tips can snap in the slots.

Cost me like $75 if I remember right.

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

do you remember the mm minimum our rotors have to be?

Any one know anyone who can do it on the peninsula?

OneManArmy

iTrader: (7)

1. $30 vs. $300. ( I paid $225 by the way). So in theory that's 7-10 times the rotor cost. But what you're forgetting is the rest of it.

Time: If you can do a brake job in 30 minutes I'll pay you EVERY time I need mine done.

In reality it's more like an hour plus. I don't run around like I'm doing a nascar pit stop. So say 1.5 hours of my time. That's another $50.

Now... you smoke a set of rotors before your pads are.. and I have and would. That's a set of pads. So that's another $85-125. So now we're at $150.
Fluid... $10. So now we're at $150-175.

And that's once. My rotors have lasted far longer than that. In that time I'd go through this at least twice... so now you're at $300.

So by pure math not including the PITA and performance factor it's worth it.


Daily driving and auto crossing. Heat cycles will happen in autoX depending on the course set up but sure by that alone... big deal.

Now throw in some canyon runs. I will and have destroyed ****ty rotors with the heat produced in a canyon run. Canyon runs are far more likely than autoX and what works in the canyon will work in autoX. But I don't think he's planning on running full seasons of autoX or competing in a crazy enough class where brake theory will come to play in said class. And picking a set up for every day use based on what is best for autoX seems odd to me as with what you're saying he might as well stay stock.

So it's really daily driving, reliability and canyon runs.

But you go ahead and run napa. I'm all for it. But putting napa rotors in the same conversation as DBA is silly. If he's thinking about DBA then napa blanks are pointless. If he was asking for a decent replacement on his stock set up then sure.

If you can come out of mines road anywhere near me with napa rotors I'd be very impressed. I know very few people who could. Jeff being one of them. But he's also crazy.


Saving what in reality is more like $100 tops isn't worth my piece of mind. If I was 18 and cared more about a BOV sound than stopping safely then sure. But then again... when I was that age my car had a big brake kit on it. Stopping feels good to me.

bluwrxwgn

iTrader: (3)

And if he does upgrade to 4pots then he will have more heat issues. That's what happened to me. Upgraded to wilwoods, warped the stock rotors and boiled the fluid. Now this was '03, not many choices for rotors at the time. I bought the DBA's, all problems stopped. In the 10 years I've owned my car and 108,000 miles, I replaced my DBA's once. In that time I went through 4 pad changes, one due to buying the race pads on accident and burning through them in about 10,000 miles. So well worth the investment.

international B

iTrader: (5)

porterfield r4s, DBA rotors, and ATE super blue.



done

OneManArmy

iTrader: (7)

Listen to this guy... he's one of those guys that I was talking about.

That's a perfect set up in my opinion... but I'd add stop tech brake lines and if you're feeling a bit spend... get a master cylinder brace.

But yes... END THREAD.

Brfatal

OneManArmy, I've taken Brembo blanks ($70/50 a pop) on road course runs and drove harder than you've probably ever driven in the process. My brake pads even caught fire during one of those runs. They lasted several years, wore evenly, and never warped.

STi-owns-evo

iTrader: (4)

Hawk HPS is a street pad, and a bad one at that. I really don't like them on my car, but it came as a package with my 4 POTs, so I'm using them until I can replace them. For a street pad, their initial cold bite is terrible. For initial bite, stock pads were better.

StopTech SP (street performance) pads seem to be a lot better for me. A better initial bite, less dust, and no squeaking at all. Just my experience.

No input on rotors, never did too much research. Figured Centric blanks (what StopTech rebrands) are good enough.

I love my StopTech SS lines. Did a little research on those when I upgraded, and figured the StopTechs are one of the better tested. No problems with mine.

Motul RBF 600 is fine. I've also run ATE Super blue, and whatever the yellow version of the super blue is. All 3 are great.

TiC master cylinder brace. I put this on the same time I put SS lines on. The combination of these two is AMAZING. Under hard braking, there is no mush, it's a perfect combination. It's worth the upgrade.

Javirex23

iTrader: (17)

Ihave done my brakes 3 times and every time I have used the stoptechs. 2times on my 4/2 pots and this last time I did my brembo swap. The bite is consistent even after some hard braking. Of coarse there's lines and fluid upgrades aswell but I'm very satisfied overall! Only downside is that they are a bit dusty but not too bad

bluwrxwgn

iTrader: (3)

We are all probably gonna have to agree to disagree on this one.

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

The man has spoken.

OneManArmy

iTrader: (7)

Yes... end thread.