On the contrary, HPS are the perfect pads for grandma drivers. They are OE-replacement pads, not performance ones. They handle heat no better than the factory Subaru part (IMHO, slightly worse). It takes nothing to turn them into mush. They are ok for point A to B, but if you are expecting any competitive use out of them you will be sorely disappointed.

And FYI, it's common practice to among autocrossers to use cheap rotors simply because they get worn anyways and they are so inexpensive to replace. I'm not talking about eBay $1.50 rotors, but NAPA, etc. I've ruined $180 AP Racing rotors within a few months of installation. Just because they cost more it doesn't mean that they will last forever.

 

Should I not run the Motul fluid? Under what conditions did you boil it?
I also forgot to mention that I already have it.


So after reading everyone's helpful posts I think I will run the Porterfield pads as they are only a little more than the HPS pads or StopTech ones. Might even put them on the drum brakes in the mustang!

DBA 4000 Series T-Slot Slotted rotors front and rear
Porterfield R4-S pads
StopTech stainless lines
Motul RBF 600

 

Yup, I think you'll be happy with that setup.

I got my Porterfields from Livermore Performance when I got my current set (they were the best price I could find).

Livermore Performance - LivermorePerformance.com - LPIRacing.com - LPI Racing - racing parts - race parts - race car parts - lpi

http://www.livermoreperformance.com/..._1.html#subaru

You already have the fluid, go ahead and run it. I use the RBF 600 in my setup.

Centric Cryo-treated Fronts, regular Centric rotors in the rear.
Porterfield R4-S Pads
COBB Stainless Lines
Motul RBF600 Fluid

I love this setup. The braking is consistent and it works well in all driving temps from my personal experience. Also, I did the H6 upgrade for the rear as it was cheap to do and the stock rear braking on the Bugeyes was garbage.

Plus as an added benefit they really don't dust bad at all. The dust is also very easy to get off the wheels when you do wash the car. I don't use anything special, just the same car wash soap & water I use for the rest of the car, but I use some wheel brushes to help scrub the wheels and it cleans the dust / dirt right off of the wheels.

 

I did 2 seasons of auto-x and ran Wilwood's with DBA's cause I wanted rotors that could handle the abuse of auto-x and track days and back road driving and still handle everyday commuting to work. I didn't want to be replacing rotor's constantly cause I didn't want to spend that much money. $250 for rotor's that lasted me through all of that is money well spent.

 

Walker if you're making it out tomorrow I'll give you a swing around the block with the SP pads. And I'm still running the DBA4000s. No SS lines yet either. You can also ask Tim since he's got the porterfields.

 

Show me a test that proves DBA4000 rotors with the same pad and caliper stop better than NAPA blanks. DBA5000 is an upgrade due to lighter weight and the option to replace the rotor only and keep the center "hat". I don't think the 4000s are worth buying at all.

Unless you need them to cool off fast (during REPEAT hard braking, like on a track) then it doesn't matter. Axxis ultimate pads are semi-metallics and are super harsh on the rotor.

 

I'm running this exact setup but with goodridge lines. I'm very satisfied with my braking system. I very much enjoy scaring passengers with short braking distances when I'm the designated driver.

I ran Axxis ultimates on my old M3, and don't think that the HPS (on the suby) have that much more initial bite, but that's completely an apples v. oranges comparison.

 

Cool I will be there for sure! Gotta get my fix before darts starts back up.




I am planning on getting into Auto/Rally-X

 

I've never bought Napa blanks, but I also have read the sheet to see what the DBA's can be heated too and I doubt that the Napa blanks can handle the amount of heat the the DBA's can. And you apparently missed my post where I boiled my brake fluid when using blanks under spirited driving but once I switched to DBA's, no more boiling out.

 

Last time I boiled my fluid was on Hammy.... just saying... it's coming up....

just saying...


Motul makes good stuff. Millions of people use it. People use it on the track. I blame it on the rotors more than the fluid... my issues. As soon as I ditched the centric and went DBA I never had another issue.

Motul is solid. I just don't make any special issues about it. I use valvoline. Side note... Jeff... Ipozestu runs the exact same fluid. I don't know a person harder on a street car than that dude short of MAYBE Christian. He and I went on some serious drives and he never boiled it.

 

DBA 4000s still won't stop any better than a cheapo $35 steel rotor.
You don't go fast enough or have enough hard braking points like 60-0 in autox to overheat your brakes.
In rallyX with super bite pads you will just lock up your wheels immediately when you get on the brakes (assuming you have traction control off). If traction control is still on then the car will just start doing whatever the **** IT wants to do because now you're at the mercy of the crappy subaru ABS system.

For autoX you just need a SUPER harsh pad like an axxis ultimate/hps+/etc because it is the cheapest and most effective way to shorten stopping distances (outside of tire choice). Not sure what the autoX'ers do with ABS.

 

Kragen fluid never boiled on me for my 26 minute hammy runs. Didn't do so down hill either.

Also autozone rotors aren't bad blanks either. Plus its a 2 year warranty, you glaze or warp them, you get another set FO FREE

 

I'll tell you one thing... braking systems are not 100% about stopping distance. Heat cycles. Durability. Durability under stress. Etc. Those things mean just as much on a car that gets driven hard.

I'd bet my paycheck that by the time my DBA/Hawk/Valvoline boiled and failed you'd be somewhere off the road in a ditch with napa blanks. Those will NOT hold the heat cycles. More heat will get transferred to your fluid and the WILL warp much faster than the DBA's. And running them with an aggressive pad... gonna get carved up.

They're fine for your average driver. But you start talking about upgrading the rest of your system and you're a fool if you cheap out on rotors. FOOL.

It's like doing a built motor and buying some cheap *** chinese knock off rods. Why would you do that? It might hold together. Might not. But you start pushing it it's gonna fail a lot sooner and more than likely take a lot more stuff with it.

Why do you think people talk about materials used in the rotor itself as well as the hat. Heat transfer and temps held is HUGE.

 

Nah. They're fine. For most people. I personally don't like taking rotors on and off all the time because my ****ty rotors warped. Free or not.

Pads ain't free and the bedding process ain't free either. Fluid. Not free. My time. Definitely not free.

Rather spend the extra dough and get a rotor I have faith in and save the effort.

I nearly caught my isht on fire coming down hammy running centric and hawk and mogul. Next time through with DBA/Hawk/Valvoline. Fine. That tells me all I need to know. LOL.

But yeah... when I switch to my LGT set up I'll more than likely be running a napa blank because I get them at cost and a less aggressive pad for a while. But when I upgrade those it'll be DBA no doubt. I'm brand loyal to them. I've tried every rotor brand you can think of in the last... say 300,000 miles on my last 2 cars. DBA's are hands down the best.

 

WORD! Time is money son... time is money!

My current DBA rotors have more miles and abuse than I can remember. AND they've been cut once. They're do to come off but I think they could take another cut to tell you the truth. No warps. No hot spots. Some gnarly rails in them thanks to the DBA's and gravel roads though. LOL!