should i complain? what would you do in this situation?
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should i complain? what would you do in this situation?
i took my car in to get the outer and inner front passenger cv boots replaced last friday since i didn't have time to do it myself.. original quote $330 (ya ya. i know..that's kind of a stupid amount of pay for that work)
when the car was in.. they told me everything was seized (i brought the car with me from NJ/NY) so they had to take off the lower ball joint to get at the axle.. extra cost $180.. i kinda am ok with that.. since i have worked on my previous cars before and it totally sucked that everything was stuck.. so i could see how they would spend 2 extra hrs trying to get the axle out..
when i got the car back i had a clunking coming from that part of the suspension going over low speed bumps that wasn't there before. i took it back and they diagnosed it as a worn lower ball joint (they demonstrated that to me by wiggling the tire and showing me some of the free play).. so now i am on the hook for the part plus labor to tear into that corner of the suspension again.. they are quoting me $140 parts and labor to change the ball joint
kind of leaves bad taste in my mouth that they didn't catch while they taking things apart in the first place.. and also i can't help but wonder if THEY caused it trying to get the axle off (i bet you they used a big friggin hammer and whacked around a lot under there)..
i feel like i'm really getting hosed here. but i don't know how to prove it.
this is at carlsen subaru in redwood city ca
any suggestions guys?
EDIT: specific questions.. 1) how could i verify that the cause of failure of the ball joint was in fact rust related (like they are saying) and not mechanic wacking at it related (what i am thinking)
2) how much SHOULD the replacement of inner and outer cv boots on 1 axle have cost (taking into account the rusted/seized bolts)
3) i feel like i shouldn't get charged the labor for the ball joint. is this justified? who should i speak to at the dealership and what should i say to try and make it happen?
when the car was in.. they told me everything was seized (i brought the car with me from NJ/NY) so they had to take off the lower ball joint to get at the axle.. extra cost $180.. i kinda am ok with that.. since i have worked on my previous cars before and it totally sucked that everything was stuck.. so i could see how they would spend 2 extra hrs trying to get the axle out..
when i got the car back i had a clunking coming from that part of the suspension going over low speed bumps that wasn't there before. i took it back and they diagnosed it as a worn lower ball joint (they demonstrated that to me by wiggling the tire and showing me some of the free play).. so now i am on the hook for the part plus labor to tear into that corner of the suspension again.. they are quoting me $140 parts and labor to change the ball joint
kind of leaves bad taste in my mouth that they didn't catch while they taking things apart in the first place.. and also i can't help but wonder if THEY caused it trying to get the axle off (i bet you they used a big friggin hammer and whacked around a lot under there)..
i feel like i'm really getting hosed here. but i don't know how to prove it.
this is at carlsen subaru in redwood city ca
any suggestions guys?
EDIT: specific questions.. 1) how could i verify that the cause of failure of the ball joint was in fact rust related (like they are saying) and not mechanic wacking at it related (what i am thinking)
2) how much SHOULD the replacement of inner and outer cv boots on 1 axle have cost (taking into account the rusted/seized bolts)
3) i feel like i shouldn't get charged the labor for the ball joint. is this justified? who should i speak to at the dealership and what should i say to try and make it happen?
Last edited by nicknaz; Jul 16, 2007 at 06:11 PM. Reason: left stuff out
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if you wanna find out if they really did take a hammer to your ball joint in order to remove the cv boot then just jack up your car, look at the joint and if they did not wack at it, it should be rounded like the tip of a ball pin hammer, but if it looks like it has flat marks around it then yes they did take a hammer to it. this is all that i know off
the artist formerly known as mcdrama
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you should have gone to winchester auto and payed $75 for a rebuilt AXLE and left yours for core.
an hour of labor and you would have plenty of cash still in your pocket.
an hour of labor and you would have plenty of cash still in your pocket.
the artist formerly known as mcdrama
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just re-read it.
was the car lifted at all when they showed you the wiggle? That sounds to me like a wheel bearing, NOT a ball joint. This is a ball joint:
What you're describing sounds exactly like what happened to my car and the wheel bearing going bad. A simple way to tell if its the wheel bearing or the ball joint is to jack the front of your car up and wiggle the wheel. you can see what is moving around just by sticking your head under there.
Good luck.
was the car lifted at all when they showed you the wiggle? That sounds to me like a wheel bearing, NOT a ball joint. This is a ball joint:

What you're describing sounds exactly like what happened to my car and the wheel bearing going bad. A simple way to tell if its the wheel bearing or the ball joint is to jack the front of your car up and wiggle the wheel. you can see what is moving around just by sticking your head under there.
Good luck.
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http://www.winchesterauto.com/locations.htm
do you have any suggestions where i should have gone instead for that hour of labor? (and would it still have been an hour, since the lower control arm had to come off also... last time i yanked an axle was on a 95 gsr where EVERYTHING was stuck.. it took me a lot more than an hour...)
mcdrama.. yes the car was on the lifter when they showed me the wiggle. i saw the lower ball joint moving around where it meets the control arm.. what would be moving around if it was the wheel bearing?
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i agree with sean, they are trying to get you on that one.
buy ball joints yourself if they are bad, they are easy to replace and Super cheap.
buy ball joints yourself if they are bad, they are easy to replace and Super cheap.
the artist formerly known as mcdrama
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Nick, go to LIC Motorsports in Novato. It's a bit of a drive, but they know more about subaru's then most dealerships. Just remember to ask them to take you to the philly place down the street. That place ROCKS!
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From: If you can't fix it with a hammer,
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Sence when they took that apart,Sounds like they broke it on the reinstall.
Also sence they were already in that area, You shouldnt have to pay for the labor twice....
Contact the BBB and then complain to the B.A.R.
I'd like to see your work order. If it was not filled out 100% I bet I could get you a nice refund. From them being nice.. or B.A.R. directed...
Also sence they were already in that area, You shouldnt have to pay for the labor twice....
Contact the BBB and then complain to the B.A.R.
I'd like to see your work order. If it was not filled out 100% I bet I could get you a nice refund. From them being nice.. or B.A.R. directed...


