Rebuild or replace...

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Old Nov 27, 2013 | 07:05 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Prettym1k3
This is very true, Captain Heedz. Then again, if it's a built motor, and not just a stock block, there's a likelihood they won't warranty it anyway. Especially if you do a new block/internals, but reuse your heads, or end up modifying it in anyway.
tentacle **** has taught me well.
Old Nov 27, 2013 | 09:55 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by subi4justin
Who did the compression/leak down for you?
The tests were performed at Tech3

Originally Posted by apetron
Not sure what your budget is, but I know several local folks who have bought assembled shortblocks from Rallispec and have loved them. Pricing is really pretty good on them too.

Just a thought.

Short Block Assembly
Thanks for the link Matt, I'd love to pick your brain about putting together a parts list to get as much out of this as possible when you get some time, shoot me a message on FB please, thanks!

Originally Posted by Prettym1k3
Chris,

Would is potentially be cost effective for us to pull your motor, deliver it to LIC/RMBS/etc., then pick it up and re-install it? Pulling the motor has got to be 2-4 hours worth of labor charge and re-installing would be the same. Could use some help with the timing belt, unless the shop would set that up, and all we'd need is an engine hoist.

I've always wanted to pull a Subaru motor, but don't trust myself to actually rebuild one.
Yea, either way, this time a shop will be doing the full of the work, but we can always practice with the old block if I buy a new one. Turn #midnightmechanic into #midnightsubarufrankenstein hahaha


I don't plan on putting to much power into it future wise. Only aiming for 300whp in the end. So looks like buying a new block with some more current parts is gonna be ideal for me. Lots of good advice and suggestions in here, thanks a bunch folks!
Old Dec 2, 2013 | 03:34 AM
  #18  
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you're only having a misfire on cylinder one right? you would think the compression numbers would be a lot lower on cylinder 1 If it was a compression missfire I would think about checking injectors before going short block. I have seen cars with 90psi in one cylinder still not misfire. I would do the work for you but I am in the north bay but something is telling me a short block is not going to fix this.
Old Dec 2, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #19  
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Chris, this could be good news.

Maybe call up Tech3 again?
Old Dec 2, 2013 | 01:09 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Shayhan27
A refresh shouldnt be to bad as you can typically reuse the crank and rods just need new pistons and bearings, and a rehone/surface. Compare that to a new shortblock which was around $1900. if you are not planning on future performance mods a new OEM would probably be your best bet. If planning future power go with refresh and forged pistons. The ****ty part is an R&R on our motors runs 2500 and up add that to list of parts and refresh labor.
+1. a rebuild with original block can be anywhere between 500-1500 (resuse old pistons and crank and replacing with STD bearings and rings. OR if you scratched her up on the inside cyl walls, youll be looking at new pistons and rings + bore and hone. same goes for main and rod bearings. I say you best bet is to rebuild old shortblock. IF you plan to remain at current power or less. anything more, id suggest forged internals. at least pistons. hope info was somewhat useful. in terms of shops, no idea, never been...lol. GL!
Old Dec 2, 2013 | 07:46 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by biohazardous
you're only having a misfire on cylinder one right? you would think the compression numbers would be a lot lower on cylinder 1 If it was a compression missfire I would think about checking injectors before going short block. I have seen cars with 90psi in one cylinder still not misfire. I would do the work for you but I am in the north bay but something is telling me a short block is not going to fix this.
That is excellent advice, I will look into that, thank you!

On a side note, I have been driving the car since I got it back from the shop, and only once has the issue reoccurred. It was just a day or 2 after I got it back, and happened just after starting the car, which was how the initial CEL showed up as well. Since then, I have let the car warm up to running temp, and driven normally, and not seen the CEL again. The tests were done on October 17th, so it's been a while now. I haven't been daily driving the car but at an average of around every other day or so.

Does that give any new perspective to the possible cause?

Last edited by Goss408; Dec 2, 2013 at 07:59 PM.
Old Dec 2, 2013 | 08:18 PM
  #22  
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If it is only on start ups it is not a compression misfire BTW 30% leak down is a bad leak down not 15 to 20%. And you switched the coil pack and it didn't follow it right? I would start with an injector clean like redline for now and see if it comes back then go from there
Old Dec 2, 2013 | 08:54 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by biohazardous
If it is only on start ups it is not a compression misfire BTW 30% leak down is a bad leak down not 15 to 20%. And you switched the coil pack and it didn't follow it right? I would start with an injector clean like redline for now and see if it comes back then go from there

We replaced with all new plugs, and swapped the pack from 1 to 3 and it still misfired in 1.
Old Dec 2, 2013 | 10:50 PM
  #24  
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Kevin at Auto HQ, hes moving close to SJ. That is your best bet by far in the south bay.
Old Dec 3, 2013 | 08:54 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by pho_shizzle
Kevin at Auto HQ, hes moving close to SJ. That is your best bet by far in the south bay.
Oh man I had a feeling since the rwc location has been dead for a while now
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