I need to wire up this temperature controller with a power cord (heavy duty extension cord) going in, and the output to two regular houshold sockets that'll be mounted in a box. From what I understand the extension cord should have black, white and green wires inside, so what do I put where?

I'm assuming the black and white from the cord go into 4 and 5, but then where does the ground from that go? Also, I'm assuming 6, 7, 9, and 10 are the outputs for the outlets, with 8 and 11 being the grounds for those?

 

Hot and Neu to 4 and 5. Ground usually goes to the chassi to bond it with rest of the house hold wiring. What do the out puts go to?

 

Post pics of the terminal block

 

The outputs are going to go to some outlets that I'll pick up from Home Depot so that I can plug in a mini-fridge and a heating lamp to the controller for the fermentation chamber. Unfortunately I don't have the actual unit yet, so the only info I can supply is that diagram and the service manual. http://www.dwyer-inst.com/PDF_files/TSS2_iom.pdf

I'm adding to the first post the overall layout of what I'm trying to accomplish, since I'm not good at describing stuff like this in words.

 

Without seeing the TB it's difficult to say what goes where. IN a not shell.
Blk=Hot
Wht=Neu
Grn=Ground

BLK must stay with BLK throughout the circuit. It must go through a load before returning on the NEU.
The Ground is a non-current carrying conductor. It is used to bond each component within the system, this is called equalized potential. A fault will always take the path of least resistance to ground. By bonding the entire circuit you equalize potential and give a fault a straight shot to ground. Hard short breaker trips. Got it?

 

BY the looks of it, you going to be hard pressed fitting an extension cord into that TB. Typically we would run a controller like this off a low voltage 12vdc power, the outputs would then be wired into a relay. Activating the outlet. It's pretty simple to do. In this case using 110vac, no biggie either. The only thing that might be a problem for you in the current carrying capacity of the controller it's self. Make sure this thing will be able to carry the load of both the lamp and the fridge.

I did figure out to diagram. What you're seeing in 6,7,8 is the actual switch in it's energized state. This is a NO (normally open) configuration. So SP1 reaches it's setpoint this closes a relay, routing power from 7 to 6. In a NC (normally closed) config the relay will energize open. So 7 feeds 8 relay activates and 8 goes dead. At least that's what I'm making of it thus far.

 

SO why switch the outlets? Do you plan to plug anything else into them? If you want to use the outlet you can get away with just one split the hot and run a common neu.

 

Got it, thanks!

From some other information I've dug up that makes sense, and with that the whole thing is starting to make more sense.

I may have to add a fan to each outlet to even out the temperature in the entire chamber which is why I'm leaving an open outlet on each output.

 

BY the looks of things you are going to end up drawing too much current through the controller. If you're within capacity of the controller you can hard wire the heat and cooling directly to the controller and the fan can be run separately. There's a million options how this can be wired up. Much more simple that switching an outlet.

 

Even if the fan is a small 4" desk fan? http://www.amazon.com/Lakewood-1002-.../dp/B001C8H2WI

I'll be ordering the controller tomorrow, so I'll post up a picture of the back once I get it. I don't mind hard wiring the heating element into the controller, but I want to avoid having to cut up the fridge wiring because then it can never go back to being a normal fridge.

 

I just did a quick google search. This stuff is readily available for what you're trying to do for like $75. Why not just buy that?

 

The only other dual stage digital one I'm familiar with is the Ranco, which I've never seen for $75 (the single stages are around that price though). The dual stage analog ones have a temperature differential of 3-5˚. Although that wouldn't be catastrophic, it isn't ideal for the yeast. What did you find for $75ish? The Love stuff is $90 shipped, plus the other materials (wiring, outlet(s), box)

Another option is wiring up a cheap household HVAC thermostat, but for that I'd have to put the thermostat in the chamber because they don't have an external temp probe (that I'm aware of).