oh, and you, stay on topic.

 

Haaaaaaaa Worm I'm F'n with ya. Seriously good luck with it. It sounds like a sweet project.

 

cool ill be sure to let everyone know how it comes out but by the time i actually gather parts itll be about a year away since iam just moving out and have other obligations.

 

Since your running multiple APS parts, the new APS turbo inlet hose (metal pipe) might be a good idea. From what I've read, running over 400whp/400 tq usually collapes the stocker and many of the cheaper aftermarket silicone hoses emplode too.

 

i just saw that this last week its added to the list i just dont have it updated here i thought this was dead.

-norm

 

- Don't forget that soon the Helix RR500 turbo will be out, and even if that doesn't live up to claims Helix will have a cheap rotated mount for sure.
- And Helix will probably have 272 cams as well. Helix 264 is less than 500 local, Helix valvetrain is half the price of JUN
- Ebay for the catback...
- Ditch the pulley, it's like extra money you don't need to spend. I mean maybe if you put out 395whp then ok, buy the pully.
- You may or may not need a built motor for 350whp on Gruppe-S (IE 400+WHP on a dynojet)
- You don't even need the valvetrain. I seriously doubt you need an 8k redline. If you install valvetrain into WRX heads it costs another few hundred bucks to cut valves etc. Cams drop right in.
- DON'T PNP imho. I am no tuner expert but the WRX heads and STI heads flow similar if I'm not mistaken. It's the WRX CAMS, not the head, that is holding it back. Just check out the work gruppe-S did on a 2.0l w/ TD05-20G and helix 264 cams: 336whp iirc on a 96 tune, which of course would be 370-380 on dynojets. It costs so much to port heads that if you are already going valvetrain/cams you might as well just buy bare JDM big port heads and sell your stock wrx heads afterwards.

The bottom line is, because you said you are "about one year away" this probably means you don't have a lot of money (hey I don't have a lot of money either). When you don't have a lot of money on one hand you don't want to cheap out and then pay the price for being cheap. But on the other hand it's in your best interests to cut costs wherever possible.

I've got the same goals as you and we'll see how I do in a few months after the motor's broken in and tuned. However I plan:

2.5L SB (1700 but I'm buying it new. easily 1300 used but low miledge)
Helix 264 cams (<500)
Helix 820cc (top feed) injectors (<500)
FP green or Helix RR500 (1500 for the green, G-S estimates ~1100 for the RR500?)
Perrin FMIC (1100, but you can really go cheaper. You just need to add an additional length of piping w/ coupling to accomodate a rotated mount if you went that route. I don't have access to fabrication/machine shop equipment anymore or else I'd use the $400 ebay FMIC I've got lying around.)
Crucial Racing catback or Borla Hush since I'm losing too much power w/ silencer in the catback and I can't tolerate a loud car)
Gruppe-S Jethot coated header (500, but note people have been porting stock headers/crosspipes with good results IE about as good as aftermarket. Crucial offers header porting service or you can DIY)
Perrin Big MAF (200)

If you don't drive your car that much just get a 96 or 100 octane tune. With these bigger turbos there is a BIG, BIG difference between 100 and cowpiss IE california 91. 100 octane is 4.70 ish /gallon, and during the summer it's not that much more expensive than 91! Besides you will get slightly better miledge from running leaner

and labor 1500-2000 of course

I'm not swimming in cash so I didn't get the most expensive parts (I am of the opinion of "if you can afford, go for quality since going for cheap usually ends up costing more later"). But I also did not cut costs in some areas. I could have gone ebay catback, fmic, headers/UP, but chose to go w/ some more expensive stuff. I could have wrapped my headers but chose to spend money ceramic coating. I've cut costs in some places, but also spent more in others.

I'll have Gruppe-S do the work, they are a quality shop that pays attention to quality and warranties their builds (provided you follow some obvious guidelines, unlike some other shop in the bay area.)

If you can get someone to hook you up with a Perrin rotated mount they can be had for much cheaper than advertised. In fact if you don't have an UP/DP it's cheap enough that you should just get it (it comes with DP/UP AND Big MAF).

Anyhow I'm not expert I've only got 300whp but I hope to get up there soon, just wanted to share my opinions with a fellow I-cluber going on the similar path with the glorious bugeye...

 

my list is always changing along with my power goals, my hand hurts this list is long... will post again when i am finalizing the list. :P