JelloChex

iTrader: (6)

I have S2K Retrofitted Bugeye Headlights and they were working fine for several years.

A few months back when it was raining after my car was shut off and I had my keys in my pocket my passenger side headlight started to flicker and turn on. It did this all throughout the day while it continued to rain.

At this point I have gone through and replaced damn near everything with the exception of the wiring for these headlights (New Bulbs, New {Used} Ballast, New Relay, Checked & replaced the fuses) and nothing seems to be working. I've unplugged and plugged everything back in multiple times to see if maybe something just had a loose connection or dirt build up, but still nothing. The only thing left seems to be the wiring of which (while I'm sure it is something easy for some people) I don't have experience working with and would rather just take it to someone to have them help diagnose and repair this thing so I can finally have functioning headlights again and drive at night safely without worrying about not seeing the road or potentially getting a ticket for driving without a working headlight.

I would take it back over to Tommy, but last I heard he isn't over at GST anymore. If he's still there I'd take it back to him as I trust him since he helped me in the past, but if he isn't at GST, then I'm not sure where he is at to even take it to him.

If not him, then does anybody have any other recommendations on where to take it to?


TIA

STi-owns-evo

iTrader: (4)

I know you said you don't want to work on it, but do you know how your lights are set up? When I had a small hole in my radiator hose, it leaked on my relays once, and it caused the relay to trip so my light turned on.

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

Tim. I'll be back with you and Vato soon. If it's not figured out by them. I'll retrace the wiring.

So you got the replacement oem ballasts and they still didn't work?

JelloChex

iTrader: (6)

For the relays, I tried replacing that with 2 different relays. They were from AutoZone and marked as the same part (both relays Made in China). The same Part Number shows the Relay as a 12V (40 Amp) & 14V (40 Amp). Looks like different writing (lettering) on the relay, plus it seems like different specs for the relays. I'm not sure if that makes a difference, but I would think that if it was a relay issue, that it would be unlikely that 2 brand new units would have the same issue and that at least 1 of them would have worked if it was a relay issue.

That's why I'm thinking at this point it must be a wiring issue as I would think that with replacing the Bulbs, Ballasts, Relays & Fuses, what else could be left as still being the culprit? It really wouldn't surprise me if at this point all it would take would be cutting off a bit of the wire and reconnecting it as maybe water did get on the lines and corroded or messed them up at the connection point.


Yup, got a replacement ballast and installed it over the weekend. New (used) ballast ... same issue.

Though now, my high beam headlight on the Passenger side doesn't seem to work, so ordered up a set of OSRAM Nightbreakers. The high beams shouldn't be affected by the low beams, but since it seems like that light is out now as well I had to get replacement bulbs for those. Granted, I've wanted to upgrade the high beam lighting anyways, but I was hoping that I could have done that later on and not while still trying to resolve the low beam issue.

pho_shizzle

iTrader: (17)

This issue has occurred before. The culprit ended up to be a continuity defect along the wiring harness and/or relay module. Since you have already replaced the relay, might want to thoroughly look through the wiring.

JelloChex

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, that's my suspicion at this point that the problem seems to be a wiring issue. I'm not sure how to check for a continuity defect though. Is there a tool I should get / use to check for that?

Overbear

Yes its called a ohm meter. You need to measure the resistance of each wire between points.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-...ter-98674.html

That isn't a bad one for the price, and will let you not only do ohms but also check amperage and voltage both AC and DC

queeg9k

iTrader: (11)

Don't forget a bunch of test leads.

18" Low Voltage Multi-Colored Test Leads

36" Low Voltage Test Leads

I like to put twist ties or zip ties on stuff that ohms out. Oh and if it ohms to anything above .5-1 there is something wrong. You can't test a wire with it hooked up to where ever it goes. Each wire must be disconnected at each end. A little dielectric grease on your alligator clips will ensure a good reading.

Good luck bud, I hate wiring!

queeg9k

iTrader: (11)