oh noes.. i can haz leaks??

 

i just changed mine out last month. i got the oem equivalent Koyo.

at first i bought a mishimoto on amazon but it was all bent when i got it so i returned it and just got the koyo.

 

LOL Oh Opinions, opinions! you guys are gonna fall back on that?


I wouldn't deter from recommending a product unless I have witnessed it fail in real life from personal experiences either from myself or from close friends who's vehicles I see all the time. I seen that **** leak and leak again after being repaired. Just because your's has not punctured or had any problems yet, doesn't mean others won't. Like I said, you might be a lucky one. But lucky for how long? Who knows.... Doesn't matter to me, none of my friends or I will ever be using that stuff again.

 

I know what you're saying.. but you can say the same thing for OEM radiators.. some blow early, some never do..

 

That's what she said.

 

Sure like I said, it comes down to quality control and who manufactures the product; where it be name brand or knock off...I already witnessed my friend's failing and he didnt have it on for as long as I had my oem one, which was at 140k when it finally blew.

 

 

CROSS POST!!


Ordered them yesterday! They should be here Wednesday. Going to let Kevin at AutoHQ do the install for me. Sure I could do it, but the car is already at his shop as it was close to where I broke down. Should I bother with an aftermarket thermostat or is OE fine? The OE one that is in there is probably fine but I figure just replace it at the same time.

 

I run an aftermarket that 5 degrees colder than stock. It's the crucial one. It's lasted forever and done a great job.

But honestly... stock is fine. Same for the hoses. But I wish I had baller hoses. LOL!

 

=[ my radiator is on its 13th year lol hopefully nothing goes bad (knock on wood)

And from personal experience, I have had silicone radiator hoses leak during high pressure, like it expands. Maybe the new ones are better.

Can't go wrong with oem =]

 

Grimm Speed's 160 degree thermostat a good choice. What does the OE one open up at? I can't seem to find an answer with google.

Ok some more searching and it looks like stock is 170f

 

Is running a lower temp thermostat needed on a daily driven Turbo Subaru? I know that some vehicles don't respond as well to a lower temp stat like other vehicles. MY truck for example, has a lower temp thermostat and the temp barely goes to the middle like it used to. Some vehicles need to see a certain temp to operate correctly and with a lower temp stat it makes the ecu think its not quite warm enough. Now if i tracked my truck the stat would make better sense. During hot sac summers with the ac on max stuck in bumper to bumper the temp reaches "factory normal". Rare times like that i feel the stat was a good choice, but for 90% of the time the truck sees normal bay area temps. On my old auto cross and old drag car it made sense and helped but thats not a norm DD car unless Because Race Car.

 

After reading a little more on the subject I am thinking the same thing SkizzDawg. 5 degrees colder would probably be cool but 10 sounds a bit much. May keep the oil too cold/thick :/ I think I will just pick one up at the dealer.










PS: Pun was intended

 

Yup, stock is 170 degrees.

Grimm Speed seems to be good quality. I have the 160 Degree Crucial Racing one (basically the same thing so I wouldn't be surprised if it was even made by the same company).

The difference between stock vs Aftermarket (besides temperature, although there are some that are also 170 Degree Aftermarket T-Stats) seems to be that the OEM one if it does Fail will Fail in the Closed Position, while the Aftermarket ones I've seen will Fail in the Open Position.

Your current one is probably fine, but based on how cheap a thermostat is I would just replace it. Might as well since you will have a new radiator, hoses & fluid.

 

Do you notice sub-nominal temp? The locking open during a failure seems like a good idea they are quite a bit more expensive though. Something like $45-50 VS $15-20 for OE. Although I did just buy a nice/more expensive cooling system so why skimp on one of the most important components.