Get my car back tommarrow with new motor
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 921
From: clayton, concord, walnut creek ca
Car Info: 04 java black pearl sti/06 honda ruckus
Get my car back tommarrow with new motor
What are some dos and donts with a new motor? I mean generally know but just wondering if there's anything I didn't think of, any input is welcome!
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From: SF Bay Area - Peninsula
Car Info: 04 psm wrx sedan
they should tell you, but i heard no boost, and dont keep the rpm the same for a period of time...like if driving on freeway, dont stay at one speed/rpm
good luck and congrats
good luck and congrats
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From: on the way to lake tahoe to shread! turbo beast
Car Info: 2016 WRX, 2014 lifter forester XT, 2005 JDM207 WGN
Talk to that place that built your engine.....they will tell you the right way to "Break" it in
and you need boot to seet the pistion rings, also want to give the engine lots of VAC.
and you need boot to seet the pistion rings, also want to give the engine lots of VAC.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 921
From: clayton, concord, walnut creek ca
Car Info: 04 java black pearl sti/06 honda ruckus
Yea I put a motor in my old truck and had to keep roma scattered and such, but I didn't know of the turbo makes a difference
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 921
From: clayton, concord, walnut creek ca
Car Info: 04 java black pearl sti/06 honda ruckus
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From: Land Of The Dead
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Drive the **** outta it. It will work just fine.
Dont baby it for 3000 miles or whatever ridiculous recomendations you get.
Race cars make good power for a reason. They are built..... then dynoed.
Dont baby it for 3000 miles or whatever ridiculous recomendations you get.
Race cars make good power for a reason. They are built..... then dynoed.
Something Custom
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I'd suggest you take the safer route, and break in the engine til about 5k, then you can drive the **** out of it. I've heard just about everyone say this, and I'm sure it has a lot of backing.
These jokes who think your engine is a "race engine" won't be wasting their money if the engine blows. I've heard from Paul a few months ago on a post of some retard doing that to his rebuilt engine, and it was toast after 3k and showed the engine was driven too hard as an indicator and type of 'insurance' for his backing.
Talk to anyone who knows engines, your engine isn't Nascar or runnin' 6.5 quarter miles. I'd strongly suggest to take it easy on the thing until 5k, get a good solid break in.
In the end you spent your money and you can do what you want with it, but my opinion is taking care of the engine, then playin with it later.
These jokes who think your engine is a "race engine" won't be wasting their money if the engine blows. I've heard from Paul a few months ago on a post of some retard doing that to his rebuilt engine, and it was toast after 3k and showed the engine was driven too hard as an indicator and type of 'insurance' for his backing.
Talk to anyone who knows engines, your engine isn't Nascar or runnin' 6.5 quarter miles. I'd strongly suggest to take it easy on the thing until 5k, get a good solid break in.
In the end you spent your money and you can do what you want with it, but my opinion is taking care of the engine, then playin with it later.
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From: Participating in some Anarchy!
Car Info: 2005 LGT wagon
I use to build VW motors (big boys, 1835's and up), break in consisted of...
1)Start motor
2)Verify oil pressure
3)Run it up to 4500 RPM
4)Set a brick on the gas to hold it at 4500
5)Let her run, after about 10 minutes you will hear it change pitch, and jump to 5000+ rpm
Motor now broken in, drive it like you stole it.
I have always broken in my motors in such a way and never had a problem...well ok one motor, a NapZ24(nissan) that decided to go zero oil pressure on me during a 2nd gear pull with 10 miles on it, tossed a rod thru the block, BUT, thats also a known problem with that motor.
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