Alright guys,

So I've been doing A LOT of research on fender rolling the past couple of days and probably contacted 6 different shops in the area and posted 3 threads in 3 different forums asking for advice/recommendations (NASIOC, Saab92X, and here of course!). I've received replies on one extreme to use a hammer or baseball bat...all the way to taking it to a shop and paying up to $120 (for 2 fenders) to get it "professionally" done.

Well, the cheapest quote I've received from a shop is $80 for 2 fenders which isn't bad...but the only issue I have is that they won't give it as much TLC as I would if I were doing it myself which would lead to paint chipping/cracking. Therefore, since renting the tools (fender rolling tool + heat gun) from our fellow 92X enthusiast David (Salaki) would cost $80 as well, I decided to go that route and do it myself!

So I'm thinking that for the guys interested in doing this, we can meet up next Saturday (5/6) and just split the costs? I know we've been throwing around the idea of doing it at the Mann Engineering meet, but I'd like to get it done sooner...so let me know if you guys are interested and if the day works out. If so, I'll order the tools!

Thanks!

http://saab92x.com/viewtopic.php?id=6346

 

interesting. I may be down for that.

Benefit of having a reputable shop do it is that many stand behind they're work and if they **** your **** up they'll take care of it. if I mess my own up I'm hosed.

Did you talk to Kronen tuning? Tell Art that Ray mentioned to you that he was getting a roller.

Or maybe contact a shop and see if they'll do a hook up if 5-10 cars come in at once.

 

i wish i had known of a shop that would stand behind their work. not that mine is really messed up, but i think when you have the rolled or shaved, you have to be aware of the fact it might get really messed up. i doubt many shops that roll will take responsibility, or that it will be easily fixed

 

^ and some shops have a release waiver (removing liability from paint cracking, etc.) that you sign before they will perform fender rolling. LIC does.

-Mike-

 

Man, I wish this woulda happened a year ago. My fault. Haaaa...

The only reason it will look messed up when it's done is because it's done wrong - usually too fast. Someone with a fancy machine has NO EXCUSE to do it badly. If someone were to make me sign something saying my car might get damaged and I need to accept it, I would find someone who can do the job instead. Part of paying a professional to do work is not having to take that chance.

 

wow, so LIC is charging $70-$85 per corner to roll fenders with NO guarantee against paint cracking? then whats the point of paying that much?

 

YUP. I talked to them earlier this week. They charge more than others because they say they spend extra time to do their best to prevent cracks/chips...and then if it does crack/chip, they will treat it.

That's why I just decided to do it myself...I'll take it real slow and make sure the paint is heated enough to minimize potential cracks/chips.

 

It sounds like they are saying "we don't want to roll fenders."

 

rolling fenders pretty easy as long as you take your time and the paint wotn even chip.i rolled duo's rear fender a few weeks ago and it took us about an hour to do both sides and no paint was hurt in the process

i used this fender roller http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...&keyword=31158 and worked like a charm.

 

Just to clear up a few things. We usually charge $60 per corner. I believe our site is wrong regarding brembos on the rear. We do not need to remove the caliper to roll the rear fenders. Front big brake kits must be removed in order to roll the front fenders, but front fender rolling is very unlikely.

If you have coilovers, it takes extra time. They do not droop enough to roll the fenders in place. They have to be readjusted for this process and the sway bar detached. We highly recommend rolling the fenders before switching to coilovers as it eases the process.

It really depends how much of a roll you need. Most of our customers are rolling for track purposes and need the max roll. As far as paint cracking goes, we have found that most new subaru paint cracks. It really depends how much of a roll you need. It might be at the time of rolling, a day later, a week later, eventually it will crack. The paint quality of Subaru is more water based now than in the past. GC fenders roll much better than GD's. I have rolled Hodas aggressively with no cracking at all. I rolled Subydude's 350 Z last night that turned out perfect. Subarus paint and multilayer rear lip does make things easy.

We charge based on our time and tools needed. The process usually takes two hours. If you billed that at our shop rate, that would be $180 plus materials.
We spend more time rolling than we charge for. Heating up the lip as much as possible, rolling, rolling again, and one last roll depending on the customers needs. I usually offer a finish option of clear coat, touch up paint, or underbody spray to combat rust and continued flaking of the paint.

Hope this helps clear up any misconceptions


-Kevin

 

well said

 

Bingo...

Then why do we roll fenders every other day at the shop?

*it just takes time though

-Noah

 

What I meant to say was along the lines of fender rolling seeming to be considered risky business due to the liability issues and what can happen (paint and body damage) and that maybe you guys were saying that if someone were willing to actually pay you for the time required, you would do the work. Otherwise you are not interested in setting your pricing simply based on what other people charge. Wasn't saying you guys don't know how or literally don't WANT to do it, even though that's what the words said. Sorry for the confusion.

 

PM sent...again no worries, no offense taken

-Noah

 

i was going have u guys roll my rear fenders since u guys have the right tool, i wouldnt mind paying more to have it done right. it scared me a little when someone mentioned u guys make him sign some agreement against paint crack b4 rolling fenders, however after reading ur explaination i think its fair enough. so one question, even IF the paint cracks its only the inner part of the fender that cracks, right?

so could u guys give me a quote for rolling both rear fenders on a 06 WRX, stock struts with lowering springs? im trying to fit 17x8.5 +42 w/ 255/40/17 Azenis in there, im not sure how aggressive that is considered. also how much extra is the optional clear coat or touch up paint?