Clay Bar (and Detailing Products) Recommendations
06-14-2013, 02:35 PM
#16
06-14-2013, 02:36 PM
#18
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: In Mother Russia...
Posts: 4,024
Car Info: ...zeh car drives you!
I am not used to posting about this type of stuff, so sorry if I am giving it in bits and pieces. Here is what I done thus far (at the public self wash)...1) Pressure rinsed the car with normal water
2) Pressure washed the car with their soap
3) Pressure rinsed the car again
4) Used brand new brush with a bucket on some of the more stubborn spots (in hindsight two buckets would have been better probably to seperate clean and dirty water)
5) Rinsed the car again.
6) Unfortunately this was on a weekend, so I didn't have the luxury to hand dry it...too many cars in line and I was already pushing it. So the car dried with water spots on it.
7) I used Dirtex on the windows...
That's where the car sits now...
06-14-2013, 02:39 PM
#19
Yes...I am a tool, novice and idiot in this area. I am sure I have made a ton of mistakes already, but trying to learn I am not used to posting about this type of stuff, so sorry if I am giving it in bits and pieces. Here is what I done thus far (at the public self wash)...
1) Pressure rinsed the car with normal water
2) Pressure washed the car with their soap
3) Pressure rinsed the car again
4) Used brand new brush with a bucket on some of the more stubborn spots (in hindsight two buckets would have been better probably to seperate clean and dirty water)
5) Rinsed the car again.
6) Unfortunately this was on a weekend, so I didn't have the luxury to hand dry it...too many cars in line and I was already pushing it. So the car dried with water spots on it.
7) I used Dirtex on the windows...
That's where the car sits now...
I am not used to posting about this type of stuff, so sorry if I am giving it in bits and pieces. Here is what I done thus far (at the public self wash)...1) Pressure rinsed the car with normal water
2) Pressure washed the car with their soap
3) Pressure rinsed the car again
4) Used brand new brush with a bucket on some of the more stubborn spots (in hindsight two buckets would have been better probably to seperate clean and dirty water)
5) Rinsed the car again.
6) Unfortunately this was on a weekend, so I didn't have the luxury to hand dry it...too many cars in line and I was already pushing it. So the car dried with water spots on it.
7) I used Dirtex on the windows...
That's where the car sits now...
06-14-2013, 02:43 PM
#20
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: In Mother Russia...
Posts: 4,024
Car Info: ...zeh car drives you!
Yea... takes me a while to write thorough thoughts down with related topics of discussion. Im sure people have seen my write-ups related to car care. Detailing is just one aspect, it doesnt mean correction or care. It just means you are getting all the nooks and cranny's cleaned. I find detailing tedious, but correction and care to be more rewarding because of the end result/finish. I haven't had lunch yet, I almost nodded off typing this. Inevitable long reply will be added later.
I brought it out this Wen meet actually. I got nothing but hate on it, but I don't care. I think it is cool and actually want it to look good.Whatever help will be appreciate it; I will buy you food and drink next week if I can pick your brain more.
06-14-2013, 03:01 PM
#23
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Location: Dublin, CA
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Car Info: 02 WRX sedan
If the car is 21 years old, it will definitely need more work than just a clay and wax.
I never took care of my paint that well either. maybe 10 years, not 20. This is what I did:
- bought a random orbital buffer package from someplace like Autogeek or detailers domain. I think mine was a Porter Cable 7424xp Got mostly aggressive pads but one that's not aggressive
- Autoscrub pad for the random orbital. WAY faster than claying, and I don't have tons of time. Detailing is not something I want to be spending days on.
- Mezerna FG-400 compound (heavy cut compound)
- I had some Zaino Z-PC compound (pretty light cut compound) that I had tried first by hand. Did next to nothing. by hand, but was adequate for polishing with the buffer after the FG-400.
- I had Zaino Z-2 that I'd always used as a sealant I still like this stuff. Water beads well for 6-9 months. Which is good, since I don't like to wax my car often.
The autoscrub gets some stuff out, but the FG400 with a fairly aggressive pad took out ALLL the old swirls and stuff. Then the ZPC helped clean up some hazy light scratches that the FG400 leaves.
The brand of stuff you use probably isn't too important, but you will likely want 1 very heavy cut polish / compound for paint that old. It will then need a lighter cut polish for cleaning that up and smoothing it out. Then a wax or sealer to protect.
It didn't take care of everything, I mean there's still a ton of chips in the hood and bumper from 180k of mostly freeway miles and stuff like that. But it did a pretty good job and with the machine, it meant I could do everything in a day... but expect it to be a full day. The polishes are meant to be applied slow and a small section at a time... something like half the top of the trunk or so at a time.
I never took care of my paint that well either. maybe 10 years, not 20. This is what I did:
- bought a random orbital buffer package from someplace like Autogeek or detailers domain. I think mine was a Porter Cable 7424xp Got mostly aggressive pads but one that's not aggressive
- Autoscrub pad for the random orbital. WAY faster than claying, and I don't have tons of time. Detailing is not something I want to be spending days on.
- Mezerna FG-400 compound (heavy cut compound)
- I had some Zaino Z-PC compound (pretty light cut compound) that I had tried first by hand. Did next to nothing. by hand, but was adequate for polishing with the buffer after the FG-400.
- I had Zaino Z-2 that I'd always used as a sealant I still like this stuff. Water beads well for 6-9 months. Which is good, since I don't like to wax my car often.
The autoscrub gets some stuff out, but the FG400 with a fairly aggressive pad took out ALLL the old swirls and stuff. Then the ZPC helped clean up some hazy light scratches that the FG400 leaves.
The brand of stuff you use probably isn't too important, but you will likely want 1 very heavy cut polish / compound for paint that old. It will then need a lighter cut polish for cleaning that up and smoothing it out. Then a wax or sealer to protect.
It didn't take care of everything, I mean there's still a ton of chips in the hood and bumper from 180k of mostly freeway miles and stuff like that. But it did a pretty good job and with the machine, it meant I could do everything in a day... but expect it to be a full day. The polishes are meant to be applied slow and a small section at a time... something like half the top of the trunk or so at a time.
Last edited by Concillian; 06-14-2013 at 03:06 PM.
06-14-2013, 03:11 PM
#24
I have all the chemical guys products and I can show you how to remove water spots/swirl marks, polish, seal and then wax. Just let me know. I'm willing to help. I do it on the side to make money but I won't charge. It is a very long job but we can make your car look good.
06-14-2013, 03:17 PM
#25
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: In Mother Russia...
Posts: 4,024
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All good stuff! Thanks for the info! Sounds like I will definitely will need to have a plan in place once I go full detail...if I don't chicken out and just pay Pho 
The car has a mix of paint quality...Front bumper paint has cracked and chipped spots (I will repaint the whole thing), tiny chips on the hood (probably just leave it), light scratches on the side (looks buffable), decent size dent in a rear quarter panel behind the passenter door (minor body shop work)...but the roof, hatch and rear bumper look pretty darn good.
This is why for now I jsut want to save and preserve what I have until the body works gets done....
I have all the chemical guys products and I can show you how to remove water spots/swirl marks, polish, seal and then wax. Just let me know. I'm willing to help. I do it on the side to make money but I won't charge. It is a very long job but we can make your car look good.
Last edited by LxJLthr; 06-14-2013 at 03:22 PM.
06-14-2013, 03:32 PM
#28
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Nor Cal SJ
Posts: 7,034
Car Info: 2010 Hatch, 2011 Sedan
I offered you the Mother's clay bar free. LMK if you want it or not and we can meet up.
Pho already did the car once right? That means you aren't starting from ground zero.
Pho already did the car once right? That means you aren't starting from ground zero.
06-14-2013, 03:41 PM
#29
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: In Mother Russia...
Posts: 4,024
Car Info: ...zeh car drives you!
And I was about to PM you
06-14-2013, 03:52 PM
#30
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: In Mother Russia...
Posts: 4,024
Car Info: ...zeh car drives you!
Didn't realize I had some picture of the actual car...just posted in Recent Purchases thread, but thought I throw it up here as well...not the best quality pictures, but should give an idea what I am up against.
