My shop's chassis dyno was just repaired (minor breakage last week) and today we decided to put my car on just to test it out and see if it worked.
One pass later we knew the dyno worked, and had some pretty good numbers on my car.
Note - we didn't go anywhere near redline, peak power should be about 1000RPM higher than this chart goes (note the incline) but still I am very happy with the torque numbers


So with 15% drivetrain loss than makes... 440ft/lbs of torque @4500RPM




Ok - I'll stop fooling , it ain't my Impreza, its my 71 Camaro.

 

Give us the specs on the car...

 

The engine is a Chevy 350 stroked to 383 with 10.61 Compression.
Coated JE Pistons with 6" Rods
Custom cam (my own design)
Edelbrock Aluminum heads and CNC ported Vic Jr intake manifold

 

Very nice Lowend, what tranny and pumpkin are you running, and what ratio in that pumpkin?

-Chris

 

I run a Close ratio M21 with a lightened flywheel and Kevlar/Metalic clutch
3.08 rearend (3.73 coming) with an Auburn limited slip

 

:drool:

 

Good #'s.

I didn't know Speed Merchant had a dyno.

Kurlee Daddee
(THE ORIGINAL)

 

We do -
2WD only though

 

so u got 353 rwhp? nice

 

353 RWHP - 1000RPM below where power should peak with that cam

 

Even better for my situation.

I came by there and picked up a set of Hotchkis sway bars front and rear for my SRT-4 a few weeks ago from Brett. I didn't notice a dyno there, but then again I didn't look too hard. How much for 3 runs on the dyno?

 

$130 for 3 runs

Carborated car tuning $150/hour
F/I Tuning $170/hour

 

Lowend : mind sending me (or posting) the specs on that cam? Here are the ones on the cam I threw into the 383 in my 96 Impala :

.568/.583 (lift at the valve, using 1.5 rockers), 224/230 duration, 113+2 LSA

(it is a Comp Cams custom grind).

Motor is a 6" rod 383 LT1. Ported Alum heads, 2.00/1.56 valves, ported intake, big honking injectors, 58mm dual-port throttle body, Tri-Y headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, etc etc .

Spec'ed in mind with getting as much out of it as we can, while still having a good chance on passing smog (fuel-injected LT1, and unfortunately I do have to worry about OBD-II). I am still working on break-in and tuning, car has been down now for 2 months on non-motor issues . I am expecting 375 or so RWHP, a little over 400 RWTQ from it.

 

My cam =
Hyd Flattappet

232/242@050
110 Lobe Seperation, 4 deg advanced
.500/.518 lift

Frankly this cam won't work in your LT1 - it has way too much overlap and will mess with the MAP sensor

Your setup looks good, depending on how well those heads have been ported. and how good your computer programming is.
Using a set out our CNC ported LT1 heads and a smaller cam (218@050) we pulled a little more than 400RWHP out of a 95 Camaro.
I am concerned about you passing smog... that cam is pretty big for a smog motor, I really don't like going past 222@050 in smogger applications. I would be much more confident if the cam was on a 116 Lobe Seperation.

 

You're correct, 110 LSA is pushing it for an LT1.

We'll see what happens on Smog, and I do agree it'll be close (and that is thru stock manifolds/cats, at least for the test). I have a "plan B", but really don't wanna go there if I don't have to .

A buddy just passed tailpipe AND plug-in smog....on the dyno....in his 96 SS (OBD-II) with a homebuilt 383 and the Comp Cams CC503 hydraulic roller cam : 224/230, around .540 lift (with 1.6 rockers, which he has), 112 LSA. In theory, that cam should be a little MORE difficult to pass than my cam. Keys for him were NEW cats, and have a good programmer . He used Bryan Herter at PCMforLess, I will be working with Bryan as well as a local dyno tuner on my car.

FWIW, my motor was built by Combination Motorsports down in Vegas. The heads are their "Stage 2" Alum heads : good flow, but not to the "hog it out" point either.