There's basically two models

120 Series
&
125 Series

Difference is the High carbon or not.

Now then within those two choices you can get Cryo Treated or non Cryo Treated.

Benefits and cons of Cyro treated rotors?

Now benefits of high carbon and non. Seriously bugging me as their website isn't really clear on either. Assuming 125s are the better more durable set up. I just can't see myself spending 200+ a rotor from DBA just to replace them every two pad changes.

 

This is my current setup
KNS Brakes

Also running ss lines and Motul fluid. I think its a pretty good setup.

From what I have heard the cryo treated helps them last longer, but honestly don't know. And seems like the 2 series to me seem the same lol.

 

I have had cryo and non cryo of same rotor on same car previously. Apparently cryo "realigns" the molecules or something. Kind of like heat treating just backwards.

The only difference I noticed was a rotor that lasted just a hair longer, warped just as easy, and was more expensive.

If I was rich I'd do it again, but since I'm not...well...then I won't.

 

Exactly I wanna know what would the difference really be. Some say a factor of 4 longer lasting but what the hell is that?

I mean if it helps anyone who posts here... I'm running Hawk HT-10 pads front and rear on my next swap.

 

No clue, I run the Powerstop disks with the z26 pads. Seems to work great for me.

 

Rotors dont warp. Common misconception.

 

You should just email them and ask.

 

I asked a racer buddy who's also a materials guy for Lockheed about cryo treating rotors; he said it was a waste of money. Basically the rotors be annealed on their first hard stop which undoes anything that the cryo treatment did

 

Uh...wut? you clearly didn't see the set that came off the FXT when we pulled them. The back ones had a very visible wave to them where you could see the pads were skipping grip. I would call that warped.

 

Yeah...or a the many sets I fried after lemons racing and track days after I just immedietly pulled off the track...or broke down...ahem...and the calipers/pads cooked the rotor in place...

 

The deposits from the pad get transfered onto the rotor and cement lock on there. Rotors crack they dont warp.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

 

http://www.stoptech.com/images/tech-...=Temp&sfvrsn=2

That to me is a warped rotor. But on non vented I've warped a rotor from stopping after cooking them and keeping the caliper on one part of the rotor.

I'd love to say I've destroyed a rotor from hard racing and had it deform from intense continuous use, but my pads have disintegrated first.

 

I had to do a search on this because it was "mind=blown" ....

But according to the tire rack ...

http://www.tirerack.com/FAQ/results.jsp?category=Brakes

"How can I tell if my rotors are warped or if it’s something else?

Brake rotors don’t warp unless overheated. It’s very common to misdiagnose brake problems and attribute them to a warped brake rotor. Warping is caused by excessive heating of the brake rotor and the resulting distortion of the cast iron.

The main symptom of warped rotors is a pulsation felt in the pedal when brakes are applied. If the vibration is felt in the steering wheel or in the dash of the vehicle, it’s more likely a completely different problem: brake judder. A simple run-out measurement will confirm the diagnosis."

Okay, mind is back to normal! Because I have warped rotors from overheating them!

 

Yep, this. Back rotors on a FXT are non vented, and warp like a ***** if you push them hard (hence the upgrade to slotted/drilled ones in an attempt to get them stay a little cooler)

Sorry Scoobywax, this one yer off a bit on. I have seen VW Type 1 disks (front only) so bad, they would not spin in the caliper and when taken off did not sit flat (I have also seen drums so bad they wobbled but we are talking disks here)

 

Dont quote me quote stoptech lol