car detailing - deep water spots - san jose
05-11-2013, 11:54 AM
#1
car detailing - deep water spots - san jose
Anyone know of a good auto detailer in San Jose or the south bay. I just spent 6 hours washing and clay-baring and waxing my car the other day and I cant get out the watermarks on the hood. I don't have time to spend buffing it trying to get them out so I'd just like to take it to a detail place.
05-11-2013, 01:12 PM
#3
Anyone know of a good auto detailer in San Jose or the south bay. I just spent 6 hours washing and clay-baring and waxing my car the other day and I cant get out the watermarks on the hood. I don't have time to spend buffing it trying to get them out so I'd just like to take it to a detail place.
05-11-2013, 04:45 PM
#6
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Nor Cal SJ
Posts: 7,034
Car Info: 2010 Hatch, 2011 Sedan
If Pho can't do it, I can take a look at it and see what I think might work. There are less harsh ways to do it than polish, but depends on how bad it is. You can try distilled water and white vinegar 50/50 mixture and only a few bucks to try it out. May take a few applications and some actual scrubbing (100% cotton preferred).
Bad news is, you are going to have to wax again...because you just waxed the spots too.
Bad news is, you are going to have to wax again...because you just waxed the spots too.
Last edited by 04GG; 05-11-2013 at 04:50 PM.
05-12-2013, 12:40 AM
#9
Here's a write up I did on a very similar and recent thread on here retaining to water spotting on glass:
Since this is on paint instead of glass, I would recommend the first two methods and to SKIP the 3rd and 4th since that is a NO NO for exterior paint situations.
Aside from that, if you do decide that you would prefer a professional to assess the situation, feel free to give me a pm and we can talk from there!
First of all, if you are living in covered san jose areas, keep in mind that san jose uses well water filtration system, so the water is very hard with mineral deposits. I made the mistake of just rinsing my car down a couple of years ago because it was dirty. Left so many white mineral deposit spots on my glass and paint. Looked bad!
Its best to get a water softening system for your home if you intend to do a lot of car washing, or drinking from the faucet. Don't let water dry on your car any where, always wipe dry.
Start from the least aggressive method first.
First I would try clay bar. Depending on the severity, clay car may or may not remove most of the surface contamination. If the glass is etched, it will do very little to help.
I would try chemical solutions only first with no aggressive properties such as Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover. It is a step up from the relatively mild acetic acid vinegar (which is an easily obtainable household product, so I see no harm in trying vinegar first). If you try vinegar, then mix with a 3:1 ratio of vinegar with water. Apply the affected area with a damp terry cloth or rag, let it soak for close to a minute then start to scrub using the cloth/rag in circular motion.
Next I would try a finishing polish with a microfiber towel or terry cloth, or even a foam pad with the proper cell structure if you have access to some. Anything from meguiars finishing polish or those other polishes you can find off the shelf in the store (obviously start with the least aggressive polish and then work your way up from there). If you are focusing on a specialized glass polish, for future use also, then there are many many types out there that have great results and have been formulated to be more aggressive towards glass. Brands such as Zaino, Griots, and Diamondite carry those products, just to name a few.
Taking it a step further in aggressiveness, next option would be #0000 steel wool WITH a lubricant (some type of liquid polishing abrasive). Be very careful when using this method though, for it will scratch the softer glass materials out there depending on the brand/make of the glass whether it is OEM, or has been replaced with a less superior quality glass. You can also try some Bon Ami to help lubricate the steel wool while polishing. I haven't had to use steel wool on any occasion in the past though. So that means with the proper products and procedure, you most likely won't need to either.
Worst case, cerium oxide will help to actually remove the glass etchings. It does have its own drawbacks and you should always research and fully understand the materials that you are using before going any further. This method is not for the casual weekend DIY'ers.
If the affected area is stubborn, then I would try to find a solution by focusing on a small area first to see if you get the finish you desire. Afterwards, replicate the successful solution across all affected areas.
People have used newspaper and have had "amazing" results for cleaning glass. Although the results may be amazing on glass, you have another problem to deal with off the surface, and that is the ink leaking and blotching on your skin. Wear gloves if doing so to reduce the risk of ink pigment sticking to your skin.
Its best to get a water softening system for your home if you intend to do a lot of car washing, or drinking from the faucet. Don't let water dry on your car any where, always wipe dry.
Start from the least aggressive method first.
First I would try clay bar. Depending on the severity, clay car may or may not remove most of the surface contamination. If the glass is etched, it will do very little to help.
I would try chemical solutions only first with no aggressive properties such as Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover. It is a step up from the relatively mild acetic acid vinegar (which is an easily obtainable household product, so I see no harm in trying vinegar first). If you try vinegar, then mix with a 3:1 ratio of vinegar with water. Apply the affected area with a damp terry cloth or rag, let it soak for close to a minute then start to scrub using the cloth/rag in circular motion.
Next I would try a finishing polish with a microfiber towel or terry cloth, or even a foam pad with the proper cell structure if you have access to some. Anything from meguiars finishing polish or those other polishes you can find off the shelf in the store (obviously start with the least aggressive polish and then work your way up from there). If you are focusing on a specialized glass polish, for future use also, then there are many many types out there that have great results and have been formulated to be more aggressive towards glass. Brands such as Zaino, Griots, and Diamondite carry those products, just to name a few.
Taking it a step further in aggressiveness, next option would be #0000 steel wool WITH a lubricant (some type of liquid polishing abrasive). Be very careful when using this method though, for it will scratch the softer glass materials out there depending on the brand/make of the glass whether it is OEM, or has been replaced with a less superior quality glass. You can also try some Bon Ami to help lubricate the steel wool while polishing. I haven't had to use steel wool on any occasion in the past though. So that means with the proper products and procedure, you most likely won't need to either.
Worst case, cerium oxide will help to actually remove the glass etchings. It does have its own drawbacks and you should always research and fully understand the materials that you are using before going any further. This method is not for the casual weekend DIY'ers.
If the affected area is stubborn, then I would try to find a solution by focusing on a small area first to see if you get the finish you desire. Afterwards, replicate the successful solution across all affected areas.
People have used newspaper and have had "amazing" results for cleaning glass. Although the results may be amazing on glass, you have another problem to deal with off the surface, and that is the ink leaking and blotching on your skin. Wear gloves if doing so to reduce the risk of ink pigment sticking to your skin.
Aside from that, if you do decide that you would prefer a professional to assess the situation, feel free to give me a pm and we can talk from there!
Last edited by pho_shizzle; 05-12-2013 at 12:42 AM.
05-12-2013, 12:46 AM
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: S.F.BayArea
Posts: 2,695
Car Info: Whatever The Lot Provides ;)
FWIW we're also looking into a newer product for one of our lots that is having hard water issues on the front line.
I can find out what our Rep ended up getting us by Thursday. Maybe Pho will want to check the stuff out?
*Definitely will 2nd the notes above for our detail peeps in here. These guys know their stuff.
I can find out what our Rep ended up getting us by Thursday. Maybe Pho will want to check the stuff out?
*Definitely will 2nd the notes above for our detail peeps in here. These guys know their stuff.
05-12-2013, 12:51 AM
#11
If Pho can't do it, I can take a look at it and see what I think might work. There are less harsh ways to do it than polish, but depends on how bad it is. You can try distilled water and white vinegar 50/50 mixture and only a few bucks to try it out. May take a few applications and some actual scrubbing (100% cotton preferred).
Bad news is, you are going to have to wax again...because you just waxed the spots too.
Bad news is, you are going to have to wax again...because you just waxed the spots too.
05-12-2013, 01:06 AM
#12
FWIW we're also looking into a newer product for one of our lots that is having hard water issues on the front line.
I can find out what our Rep ended up getting us by Thursday. Maybe Pho will want to check the stuff out?
*Definitely will 2nd the notes above for our detail peeps in here. These guys know their stuff.
I can find out what our Rep ended up getting us by Thursday. Maybe Pho will want to check the stuff out?
*Definitely will 2nd the notes above for our detail peeps in here. These guys know their stuff.
Dealerships do tend to have a lot of water spot problems especially on the vehicles they set on the front line, next to the bushes and plants........and sprinklers. I'm actually surprised your dealership doesn't have such a product already to use on their new/used cars for this situation. Or did you already have one.....but it just did not work as well?
05-13-2013, 05:54 PM
#13
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: S.F.BayArea
Posts: 2,695
Car Info: Whatever The Lot Provides ;)
Worked but not as well as necessary in this case. We got a new industrial, gloves and mask on, have to wait until the car has cooled in the shade and work on it in the shade only and rinse off almost immediately type stuff now.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post