Camber bolt slipped in the rear. Car still safe to drive to a shop?
#1
Camber bolt slipped in the rear. Car still safe to drive to a shop?
Looks like my rear drivers side camber bolt slipped and now it's at max negative camber. Is it safe to drive it from Monterey all the way up to Castro Valley to get it fixed and realigned or should I just have it towed?
#5
There is a couple shops down here but they only do factory settings and charge just as much as Roger Kraus Racing.
I almost forgot that I also have camber plates in the rear also. I'm just going to go max positive that side on the top and go back to the stock bolts. I forgot to bring in my stock bolts when I got my alignment so we kept the rear camber bolts in. Oops.
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (21)
My other side is set to -1.7. I believe the bad side is in the -3/4 range. Huge difference.
There is a couple shops down here but they only do factory settings and charge just as much as Roger Kraus Racing.
I'm not good with camber bolts but I can check the Nasioc thread on how to set camber with it.
I almost forgot that I also have camber plates in the rear also. I'm just going to go max positive that side on the top and go back to the stock bolts. I forgot to bring in my stock bolts when I got my alignment so we kept the rear camber bolts in. Oops.
There is a couple shops down here but they only do factory settings and charge just as much as Roger Kraus Racing.
I'm not good with camber bolts but I can check the Nasioc thread on how to set camber with it.
I almost forgot that I also have camber plates in the rear also. I'm just going to go max positive that side on the top and go back to the stock bolts. I forgot to bring in my stock bolts when I got my alignment so we kept the rear camber bolts in. Oops.
It's good to keep the camber bolts in the rear along with the upper camber plates. This way you can adjust both of them to give you the proper negative camber you want while also increasing the distance between your wheel and strut.
#11
Registered User
iTrader: (21)
It allows you to dial in camber and maintain a safe distance for the wheel away from the strut or coilover. Especially if you are running relatively wide wheels and tires.
Example - You want to run -2.0 in the rear
You would dial in something like -2.5 or so on the camber plates.
Then using the camber bolts push the wheel out so that your overall camber is -2.0.
This will allow you to run the appropriate camber you want while maintaining distance between your suspension components.
On my current setup I am running 18x10.5 with a 275 tire and my wheels are VERY close to my coilovers. I am ordering camber plates and keeping my bolts so that I can move the wheel away from my coilovers while still getting the camber I want.
You wouldn't be able to do this with just plates or bolts.
Example - You want to run -2.0 in the rear
You would dial in something like -2.5 or so on the camber plates.
Then using the camber bolts push the wheel out so that your overall camber is -2.0.
This will allow you to run the appropriate camber you want while maintaining distance between your suspension components.
On my current setup I am running 18x10.5 with a 275 tire and my wheels are VERY close to my coilovers. I am ordering camber plates and keeping my bolts so that I can move the wheel away from my coilovers while still getting the camber I want.
You wouldn't be able to do this with just plates or bolts.
#12
Yea exactly. This is what I meant by adjusting it. And yes keep the bolts if you plan on running wide wheels.