Looks like my rear drivers side camber bolt slipped and now it's at max negative camber. Is it safe to drive it from Monterey all the way up to Castro Valley to get it fixed and realigned or should I just have it towed?

 

if your toe is fine I see why not. unless you're at extreme differences it may drive bad. whats your other side set at? isnt there another shop that can align it down there?

 

couldnt you just adjust it back out temporarily until you go to the alignment shop

 

That would result in having one bolt in for the macpherson strut.

 

My other side is set to -1.7. I believe the bad side is in the -3/4 range. Huge difference.

There is a couple shops down here but they only do factory settings and charge just as much as Roger Kraus Racing.

I'm not good with camber bolts but I can check the Nasioc thread on how to set camber with it.



I almost forgot that I also have camber plates in the rear also. I'm just going to go max positive that side on the top and go back to the stock bolts. I forgot to bring in my stock bolts when I got my alignment so we kept the rear camber bolts in. Oops.

 

He was suggesting to adjust the bolt back to roughly where it was set then go back up to the shop to get it properly aligned.

Don't think he was suggesting to take the bolt out completely..

 

It's good to keep the camber bolts in the rear along with the upper camber plates. This way you can adjust both of them to give you the proper negative camber you want while also increasing the distance between your wheel and strut.

 

I'm able to get as much as -3 camber in the rear with just the plates alone. I never plan on running that much anyway so should I still keep in the bolts?

 

I dont see why you would run bolts and plates. Is there ever a need for that much camber aside from herrafrush?

 

No that's why I'm wondering why apetron said keep both plates and bolts in the rear.

 

It allows you to dial in camber and maintain a safe distance for the wheel away from the strut or coilover. Especially if you are running relatively wide wheels and tires.

Example - You want to run -2.0 in the rear

You would dial in something like -2.5 or so on the camber plates.

Then using the camber bolts push the wheel out so that your overall camber is -2.0.

This will allow you to run the appropriate camber you want while maintaining distance between your suspension components.

On my current setup I am running 18x10.5 with a 275 tire and my wheels are VERY close to my coilovers. I am ordering camber plates and keeping my bolts so that I can move the wheel away from my coilovers while still getting the camber I want.

You wouldn't be able to do this with just plates or bolts.

 

Yea exactly. This is what I meant by adjusting it. And yes keep the bolts if you plan on running wide wheels.

 

Ah ok that makes sense. I honestly never plan on running anything wider than a 9" wheel with a 245 tire though.

 

9" wide wheel is still pretty wide and depending on your offset could still get really close to the strut/coilover.

Just food for thought, gives you more options for adjustability.

 

Depending on the bolt it should be very easy to adjust.....on mine it's just a ring you turn....but mine were cheap soooo.